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Posted: 4/21/2008 7:37:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/2/2008 9:50:23 AM EDT by FREEFALLE7]
ITT-6015/PVS-14 assembly

This post is also in the tacked thread
ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=18&t=194640&page=20



Well all hear it is, I had my NODs apart today so I figured I would give you some insight on building.

Disclamer.... this is for info only, building NODs is easy, but you do it at your own risk.

If you drop or jab a screw driver through a $1000 intensifier tube I cant help you


Ok here we go...

I'm no expert, Pete and others are the Pros and I know just enough to be dangerous.

As far as parts, etc talk to Victor, Pete/IPSC_GUY or Ed Wilcox as they will give you a good deal on parts.

This thread is for poor folks that want to build on their own, as for some of us $3000-3600 is not attainable or justified for walking around behind the house or just looking cool around our neck.

This way you get it piece by piece and eventually you have a set, sorta like AR building.

Keep in mind by building your own, you have no warranty, you break it you fix it

Here is the TM parts diagram




Parts:
1. objective lens, limiter ring and tube housing


2. Batt pack


3. intensifier tube(expensive part)


4. tube retaining ring and light pipe


5. Eyepiece


Assembly...

Well the first is the objective lens.

first of all you take the tube housing and install the limiter ring.

screw it on until it stops, then after removing the retaining ring on the back of the objective lens(pic comming soon), screw the objective lens in.


then screw the objestive lens retaining ring in(on back of OBJ lens)

This is a PITA cause you gotta go through the tube housing to put it on.. pics coming soon

After this you install the intensifier tube.

This is the part you dont want to screw up!!!!! you insert the tube so that the end with the slot and pin hole is toward the front/objective lens.




As you are putting it in you should be looking at the rear(SN marked part of the tube)

And in this pic the light pipe should be at the 7 oclock instead of 10 o'clock, I discovered my mistake earlier tonite.

After this carefully put the tube retaining ring in and screw it tight.

I repeat do not not use a big screwdriver to do this, you punch a hole in that tube and your out $1000+$$$.

get it finger tight if you have small fingers like me, then get a set of needle nose pliers and  grind the ends to fit in the slots of the ring and carefully tighten it.



Batt pack install


first thing you need to do is install the ribbon cables, this way you headmount shutoff feature will work

As in the pics, just carefully plug them in.



Then press the batt pack against the tube housing and tighten the screws.



Then all that is left is to screw on the Eyepiece locking ring and then the eyepiece

Be carefull not to strip the threads when screwing in the eyepiece



And when you get them together they hopefully look like this



And then comes purging and nitrogene fill.... I dont do it, that's why we have Pete

Pete let me know if i missed anything, its late and I might have missed something

I hope this helps clear up the mystery in building NODs

Now I want a how to on purging and filling NODs

FREE

Link Posted: 4/21/2008 8:10:53 PM EDT
Great info!  Looking forward to seeing more.  This takes some of the mystery out of nv.  Now if I could only afford some.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 8:59:11 AM EDT

Originally Posted By mountain_guy:
Great info!  Looking forward to seeing more.  This takes some of the mystery out of nv.  Now if I could only afford some.


Ahh but you can. Buy the parts a bit at a time. Outside of the tube the most expensive part is a battery pack with the cap (the spiffy new single battery version no less) is just over $300. The objective and the eyepiece are both around $250.

Buying the parts and saving for the tube will spread the cost out over time and this is a way to get into Night Vision with out pulling out the plastic or really knocking down the savings account and THESE days that is a HUGE plus.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 9:26:58 AM EDT
This is a very interesting thread!  I had not considered 'building my own'.  Based on this description it's almost (but not quite...) as easy and building a PC...

Adding up the numbers from above, assuming $1000 for a tube, I'm looking at ~$2000.  

What kind of tube is available for $1000?

Also, how can I find out more about purging/N2 filling?  How hard, who can do it, etc?

I've been saving for a Gen 3 and this option could let me get there much sooner.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 9:59:50 AM EDT
NICE!
Now for the questions:  Is it cheaper or easier to build a MUM2 or a PVS-14?  Assuming the tube are the same.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 10:04:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/28/2008 12:12:56 PM EDT by VAAR]
Great post.  I just decided to take the long view and slowly acquire parts for a PVS-14, since I really have no justification for NV other than checking out the possums and stuff.  I'm on a budget, so no big bucks.  Just this morning I asked Pete to help me get started; he showed me where to start getting the parts, and said to wait for this post, and viola! Here it is.  Thanks Free, and welcome home.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 10:24:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By SWATH:
NICE!
Now for the questions:  Is it cheaper or easier to build a MUM2 or a PVS-14?  Assuming the tube are the same.


MUMs and 14s are housing wise very close in price, total cost, BUT as far as I know insight only sells the complete MUM (minus the tube) kit. So your looking at a larger outlay, at once to get a MUM.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 10:54:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/22/2008 11:09:43 AM EDT by llamanator]
so to build a 14, its about 2k? Also I vote tac this thread
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 11:13:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By bmamba:
This is a very interesting thread!  I had not considered 'building my own'.  Based on this description it's almost (but not quite...) as easy and building a PC...

Adding up the numbers from above, assuming $1000 for a tube, I'm looking at ~$2000.  

What kind of tube is available for $1000?

Also, how can I find out more about purging/N2 filling?  How hard, who can do it, etc?

I've been saving for a Gen 3 and this option could let me get there much sooner.

Thanks!


I am curious too.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 11:15:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/22/2008 11:18:30 AM EDT by terry1]
Can you get a tube wrench or something made to fit the tube locking ring? At $1000 you would be looking at a used tube. A good gen 3 thin filmed new tube is going to be in the $2000+ range last time I checked.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 11:30:23 AM EDT
Killer information here freefall, well done!!  I had never seen the inner workings of one before.  Very informative
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 11:33:38 AM EDT
Yep, used tubes are around a $1K and up depending and new tubes are around $2k for the best.

11769 tubes are more than 10160 tubes as simple production numbers are higher for the 10160 series.

As for the locking rings there are special tools that look like tubes with teeth on the end and spanner wrenches for the outside limiting ring and the eyepiece but the right set of needle nose (IF YOUR SUPER CAREFUL) will work.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 11:47:51 AM EDT
Is there anything dfferent when installing a MX10160 tube into this housing to be used as a 6015 style mono?
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 12:00:31 PM EDT

Originally Posted By terry1:
Is there anything dfferent when installing a MX10160 tube into this housing to be used as a 6015 style mono?


In the photos, he is using a 10160 for his build. 11769 tubes are generally black in color and have a flex print "tab" sticking out the top that also plugs into the circuit card on the battery pack.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 12:07:29 PM EDT
Cool I do see that now! I am not sure I am brave enough yet to try one but it's nice to see how it's done. I have two monos I would like to change to PVS-14's at this time I have been saveing the money as we speak to do so. Anyway great post it should be tagged for sure.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 2:08:44 PM EDT
good post free!

tack?
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 2:14:53 PM EDT

Originally Posted By gaspain:
good post free!

tack?


+1
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 2:55:13 PM EDT
Thanks Freefall!

I just may go ahead and buy parts to do this. Back when I got my first PVS7's, I took them apart and was amazed at how simple and low parts count they were. Even as a Noob, I was able to get them just about completely apart (started out with dirt/dust on the tube and needed cleaning, but I kept going) and back together without any trouble I started shopping for parts to make another Mo' Betta' pair and stopped when I started finding PVS14 parts too.

Might have to get back on the stick, there's no sense paying $3400 on a PVS14 by paying someone else to do it for you when you can do it yourself! ARFCOM is the best, back when I first got into NVD's, nobody would help me unless they were making money in a potential sale, now we have enough Hive knowlege we can build 'em ourselves!
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 3:15:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/22/2008 3:16:30 PM EDT by FREEFALLE7]
Thanks all,
 First of all I owe all of this to Pete as he has guided and advised me (and fixed my mistakes)over the past few years.

I just wanted to help everyone out, and just give you an idea what is inside a set of PVS-14s/6015's.

I met Pete and he explained how to build them, and when I had the parts and $$ I had him build my first set.

Over the last 2yrs I have nickel and dimed enough money to build my 2nd set.

About $2000 is what I have in a set of 6015s.

If I would have had $3000 I would have loved to have a new in the box set of 14s with the Adjustable variable gain.

Well I don't, So I have my trusty 6015s and they are great for walking through the woods or chasing an IR dot
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 7:47:07 PM EDT
Yeah, Pete helped me out when I needed answers to questions early on.

So, uh, um... you don't get to play with enough PVS14's at work?
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 7:48:50 PM EDT
Helpful hint to anyone who puts a PVS7 or 14 together: make sure you wipe and blow the housing threads off or you end up with "dust/dirt" in your tube before assembly. Makes it look like you have a blem tube.
Link Posted: 4/22/2008 9:53:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheOtherDave:
Helpful hint to anyone who puts a PVS7 or 14 together: make sure you wipe and blow the housing threads off or you end up with "dust/dirt" in your tube before assembly. Makes it look like you have a blem tube.


May I make a couple of suggestions? Two words; SHOP VAC. A nice camel hair paint brush helps as well. I have driven myself NUTS and gone through countless cans of compressed air  over the years.

Yep, shop vac.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA  
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 3:45:57 AM EDT
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 6:53:42 AM EDT

Originally Posted By avengeusa:

Originally Posted By IPSC_GUY:

Originally Posted By TheOtherDave:
Helpful hint to anyone who puts a PVS7 or 14 together: make sure you wipe and blow the housing threads off or you end up with "dust/dirt" in your tube before assembly. Makes it look like you have a blem tube.


May I make a couple of suggestions? Two words; SHOP VAC. A nice camel hair paint brush helps as well. I have driven myself NUTS and gone through countless cans of compressed air  over the years.

Yep, shop vac.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA  


yup, my shop vac tube cleaning system works great, lol


I am gonna machine up a tool to do the tube retaining ring, it has been on the back burner too long

nice thread freefall.....

I have built a few myself, thanks to pete taking out the mystery

purging is nice if you can get set up for it


Actually Don't you have the cool guy set up with the brush incorporated into the end of the shop vac?

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 10:44:01 AM EDT
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 1:35:17 PM EDT
I purge mine at work, I just put the body/tube/lens housing in a plastic bag, stick the hose from our nitrogen tank in the bag, suck the air out, then seal it and turn on the gas. Then it's just a matter of reassembling by dropping the tub in the housing, aligning the notch (dead easy) and screwing the lens housing on. Takes 3 minutes.

Sometimes being a die maker has it's advantages.
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 5:57:09 PM EDT
I still vote this to tac
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 6:58:24 PM EDT
Well its like ARs, they just aint fun until you have one (or 5) of your own.

For some reason the Army wont let me bring my M-4 home so I had to buy my own.

And seriously my Armourer would have a cow if I took apart one of his 14s.

FREE



Originally Posted By TheOtherDave:
Yeah, Pete helped me out when I needed answers to questions early on.

So, uh, um... you don't get to play with enough PVS14's at work?
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:01:40 PM EDT
Sounds like we need to add a purging section onto this thread.

I can add the pics, and the instructions if you send it to me.

FREE



Originally Posted By avengeusa:

Originally Posted By IPSC_GUY:

Originally Posted By avengeusa:

Originally Posted By IPSC_GUY:

Originally Posted By TheOtherDave:
Helpful hint to anyone who puts a PVS7 or 14 together: make sure you wipe and blow the housing threads off or you end up with "dust/dirt" in your tube before assembly. Makes it look like you have a blem tube.


May I make a couple of suggestions? Two words; SHOP VAC. A nice camel hair paint brush helps as well. I have driven myself NUTS and gone through countless cans of compressed air  over the years.

Yep, shop vac.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA  


yup, my shop vac tube cleaning system works great, lol


I am gonna machine up a tool to do the tube retaining ring, it has been on the back burner too long

nice thread freefall.....

I have built a few myself, thanks to pete taking out the mystery

purging is nice if you can get set up for it


Actually Don't you have the cool guy set up with the brush incorporated into the end of the shop vac?

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA


thats me  

the super duper nv purging system
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:06:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/23/2008 7:08:51 PM EDT by TheOtherDave]

Originally Posted By llamanator:
I still vote this to tac



A tack would be GREAT!
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:09:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/23/2008 7:48:45 PM EDT by FREEFALLE7]
I do too,

I was told by Victor, the staff doesnt want the liability of someone damaging a $1000+ tube and blaming it on bad assembly instructions.

AR assembly is one thing, NV is another.

FREE
 






Originally Posted By llamanator:
I still vote this to tac
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:12:37 PM EDT
super fat tag
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:38:43 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:48:14 PM EDT
Thanks Vic,
 I couldnt have said it better myself.

FREE



Originally Posted By Victor:
Free, NICE job with the pics and descriptions!  I am also glad you posted the disclaimers here as well.  Folks, as most know the most expensive part of the unit is and the heart of ANY NV system, is the Intensifier tube.  This marvel of technology that lets our troops "Own the night" can cost upwards of $2,000.00+ for the tube itself.  If you make a mistake and damage the tube somehow, you will be out your hard earned money. Another important factor is some will look for a bargain and get a used, a refurbished unit, etc.  MOST used units will come without a warranty or maybe a 6 month tube warranty.  Once again, if the tube fails after you've been using the unit, you could be out your hard earned money. Do your research, read all you can and take your time!!

FREEEFALLE7, AR-15.com nor any other poster here cannot be held responsible for any issues resulting from an electronic homebuilt system that may or may not work.   You are assuming all risks.  Thanks all!

NV Moderator
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 7:58:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 5:37:03 PM EDT by Victor]

Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
I do too,

I was told by Victor, the staff doesnt want the liability of someone damaging a $1000+ tube and blaming it on bad assembly instructions.

AR assembly is one thing, NV is another.

FREE
 






Originally Posted By llamanator:
I still vote this to tac


<<REMOVED, Failed to stay on topic>>


These are drop-in, nearly plug-n-play components, that require a very small amount of careful assembly. It's not like you really even have to calibrate anything with test equipment. A Trunk Monkey could put a PVS14 together. Seriously, if they were THAT difficult to handle, service and repair, the military would have to send them back to a depot for repairs. Luckily the most valuable part of a NVD is the tube, which is factory sealed and ready to go. You don't even have to solder to them, just drop it in the housing.
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 8:16:15 PM EDT
I just added it to the Night Vision FAQ thread.

Ok back to the build thread....

Now where is my how to on filling and purging????

FREE
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 9:40:18 PM EDT
Gimme a couple of days, I gotta run to Nevada in the Morning.

There are more than a couple of ways to purge and back fill the Nitrogen.

IPSC_GUY
SIERRA II ALPHA
Link Posted: 4/24/2008 11:15:45 AM EDT
I'm guessing if you were going the nickel and dime, build it yourself route, you'd want to buy the tube last?

I assume there is no way to test it until it's all together. To get a deal on a tube and then 1.5 years later when you get all the other parts only to find out your IT is bad
Link Posted: 4/24/2008 6:43:56 PM EDT
I would get the tube last, its easier to nickle and dime the other parts.

There is no such thing as nickle and diming a $1000 tube.


FREE



Originally Posted By TurdyDingo:
I'm guessing if you were going the nickel and dime, build it yourself route, you'd want to buy the tube last?

I assume there is no way to test it until it's all together. To get a deal on a tube and then 1.5 years later when you get all the other parts only to find out your IT is bad
Link Posted: 4/24/2008 8:15:05 PM EDT
If the build is going to take a long time (year or more) I'd be inclined to obtain the tube first. They NEVER get cheaper as time goes on. That, and occasionally you can get screaming deals on blem tubes on Fleabay etc.
Link Posted: 4/25/2008 8:07:27 PM EDT
I would be scared to death of buying a tube from ebay.

FREE
Link Posted: 4/25/2008 9:13:47 PM EDT
Why? Ask for a 2 day inspection period, and request a pic with the tube and say, a dinner fork next to it to prove he actually has it. Buying a tube is no riskier than goggles.

Alternatively, have the seller sign a contract that the two of you will split the bill to have the tube tested. It's a win for both sides in that you know you have a good tube, and he knows exactly what he's selling if you don't want it.
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 9:47:52 AM EDT
Well Petes banned,

Anybody want to help me post a how to on purging and filling NVDs??

FREE
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 2:28:33 PM EDT

Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
Well Petes banned,

Anybody want to help me post a how to on purging and filling NVDs??

FREE


I can probably help, but the way I do it would only be of help to people who had access to large nitrogen tanks.

Just about any camera shop can do it BTW.
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 6:57:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 4:31:05 PM EDT by Victor]
You can`t use industrial grade nitrogen, it is only 80% pure, the other 20% is made up of other inert gases that might possibly penetrate the indium seals and cause the hard vacuum of the tube module to be compromised. (helium especially) I don`t know what grade the camera store might have, but it needs to be reagent/medical grade (99.999%)

<<REMOVED, refused to stay on topic>>
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 8:44:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 4:31:53 PM EDT by Victor]
<<REMOVED, failed to stay on topic>>
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 9:04:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 4:33:16 PM EDT by Victor]
<<REMOVED, failed to stay on topic>>
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 9:09:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 4:32:07 PM EDT by Victor]
<<REMOVED, failed to stay on topic>>
Link Posted: 5/2/2008 9:27:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 4:32:48 PM EDT by Victor]
Link Posted: 5/5/2008 1:55:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 4:32:22 PM EDT by Victor]
<<REMOVED, failed to stay on topic>>
Link Posted: 5/5/2008 2:38:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2008 6:17:16 PM EDT by Victor]
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