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Thanks for the response. That seems like an excellent low-cost solution that should work pretty well.
I guess I need to head over to Wal-mart before my new receiver gets here. Seriously, I don't mind buying new gun stuff - but I hate replacing things that were perfectly good before I broke them.
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Silencer Shop
Stocking dealer for AAC, SilencerCo, SWR, YHM, & Tactical Innovations www.SilencerShop.com 512-931-4556 |
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Originally Posted By SilencerShop:
Thanks for the response. That seems like an excellent low-cost solution that should work pretty well. I guess I need to head over to Wal-mart before my new receiver gets here. Seriously, I don't mind buying new gun stuff - but I hate replacing things that were perfectly good before I broke them. ![]() Nothing like that, "oh, CRAP" feeling, is there?
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"Three, two, one, keyturn."
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine If you're gonna be stoopid, ya gotta be tough. |
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That's what I do, I've got some scrap UHMW laying around, but I use the mill vise, which has smooth jaws and stays perfectly parallel. It looks like OP warped it while UN-torquing the barrel nut. Either removing the original or during the loosening/tightening sequence. |
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I'm not wasting my time answering I really could care less what you think or do.
-AR-Performance '__' |
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Nothing like that, "oh, CRAP" feeling, is there?
![]() I'm hoping that I'll eventually get old enough to stop doing this sort of thing. |
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Silencer Shop
Stocking dealer for AAC, SilencerCo, SWR, YHM, & Tactical Innovations www.SilencerShop.com 512-931-4556 |
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With a mill vise I use cardboard, compresses well but does not damage the Aluminum
Originally Posted By RDTCU:
Originally Posted By limaxray:
Looks like this: http://kevinholman.com/byor/ar10noveske/upperclamped.jpg That's what I do, I've got some scrap UHMW laying around, but I use the mill vise, which has smooth jaws and stays perfectly parallel. It looks like OP warped it while UN-torquing the barrel nut. Either removing the original or during the loosening/tightening sequence. |
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Tough times breed strong people; Strong people create good times; Good times breed weak people; Weak people create tough times
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Originally Posted By SilencerShop:
Nothing like that, "oh, CRAP" feeling, is there?
![]() I'm hoping that I'll eventually get old enough to stop doing this sort of thing. I'm hoping we never get so old we stop screwing around with things that require that much effort to break.
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"Three, two, one, keyturn."
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine If you're gonna be stoopid, ya gotta be tough. |
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Use of live ammunition is now authorized
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I've always been shouted down because "it didn't break mine!!" when I tell people not to use receiver blocks that hold the take down pins.
Sorry for your loss OP. Try the clamshell type. Cheap, simple, and they work. |
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Man has the right to self defense. All those who would use it for nefarious means may they rest in peace. All those who use it to pretect the innocent, may the live in peace.
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Impressive.
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Nothing in this post should be considered information posted in an official capacity. It is the authors personal opinion alone.
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Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
I've always been shouted down because "it didn't break mine!!" when I tell people not to use receiver blocks that hold the take down pins.
Sorry for your loss OP. Try the clamshell type. Cheap, simple, and they work. I remember being nervous that I was torquing the upper when I first started using these lug-type receiver blocks - but nothing ever happened and I gradually grew more comfortable. In this case, I didn't even think anything of it until I took the upper out of the vise and turned it over. I'm sure you can imagine that sick feeling when I first saw the damage. Anyway, I'm just looking at this as a life lesson - it would have been far worse if I had damaged a barrel or a registered lower... I just got back from Wal-mart with my new $5 cutting board that will become a receiver block in the morning. |
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Silencer Shop
Stocking dealer for AAC, SilencerCo, SWR, YHM, & Tactical Innovations www.SilencerShop.com 512-931-4556 |
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Originally Posted By SilencerShop:
Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
I've always been shouted down because "it didn't break mine!!" when I tell people not to use receiver blocks that hold the take down pins.
Sorry for your loss OP. Try the clamshell type. Cheap, simple, and they work. I remember being nervous that I was torquing the upper when I first started using these lug-type receiver blocks - but nothing ever happened and I gradually grew more comfortable. In this case, I didn't even think anything of it until I took the upper out of the vise and turned it over. I'm sure you can imagine that sick feeling when I first saw the damage. Anyway, I'm just looking at this as a life lesson - it would have been far worse if I had damaged a barrel or a registered lower... I just got back from Wal-mart with my new $5 cutting board that will become a receiver block in the morning. Helpful hint––if you use a power saw (chop saw, table saw) to cut the board, you WILL get a bunch of cotton-candy looking plastic pieces that smell of burning hobo all over your shop. |
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"Three, two, one, keyturn."
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine If you're gonna be stoopid, ya gotta be tough. |
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Helpful hint––if you use a power saw (chop saw, table saw) to cut the board, you WILL get a bunch of cotton-candy looking plastic pieces that smell of burning hobo all over your shop.
That was a good tip. I ended up just using my jig saw out on the porch to avoid any mess. I basically cut the board into four 2 1/2" strips and then used them to lock the new upper down in the vice. Putting on the new barrel was a breeze - and it was far more stable than my previous method. Now I need to go sight this baby in again. Thanks for the tips guys! |
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Silencer Shop
Stocking dealer for AAC, SilencerCo, SWR, YHM, & Tactical Innovations www.SilencerShop.com 512-931-4556 |
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anytime I rebarrel an AR, I but the barrel in vice blocks real close to the upper and crank down on the vice handle. then torque the barrel nut to spec. I've been doing it this same way for years, never had a problem.
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phew...
what receiver block were you using? Also, what torque were you at (80? 20?) |
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I was using the DPMS upper receiver block.
As far as the torque setting goes, I was right around 70lbs when pulling off the previous barrel nut. That's when the damage actually occurred. |
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Silencer Shop
Stocking dealer for AAC, SilencerCo, SWR, YHM, & Tactical Innovations www.SilencerShop.com 512-931-4556 |
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Originally Posted By phideaux:
anytime I rebarrel an AR, I but the barrel in vice blocks real close to the upper and crank down on the vice handle. then torque the barrel nut to spec. I've been doing it this same way for years, never had a problem. This. Clamp the barrel. |
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In a pinch, I've used two chunks of wood. The one area I was cautious about was to make sure the piece that went between the lugs fit real close lug to lug. Since I don't have a clamp for an ar10, this is the method I use.
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The correct tool is this:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK You will never crack an upper with this setup |
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All the numbers and the colors and the facts. Backed by the rumours and the figures and the stats. I think Im gonna download my mind
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Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
I've always been shouted down because "it didn't break mine!!" when I tell people not to use receiver blocks that hold the take down pins.
Sorry for your loss OP. Try the clamshell type. Cheap, simple, and they work. This Invest |
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Originally Posted By phideaux:
anytime I rebarrel an AR, I but the barrel in vice blocks real close to the upper and crank down on the vice handle. then torque the barrel nut to spec. I've been doing it this same way for years, never had a problem. I think this is the USGI way. Worked for me last time. |
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I've used the same block to rebarrel uppers or put new freefloats on several brands of uppers and never had a problem. LMT, LAR, Alexander Arms, Accurate Armory, DSArms (Cardinal Forge) and none have cracked like that. Hate to see damage like that SS!
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Ever notice the sound of a gun being charged is the universal language of dominance?
God bless America. |
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Originally Posted By CAR-15:
The correct tool is this: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK You will never crack an upper with this setup I had one like this and it shattered the 3rd time I used it. |
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Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers.
Helping Mall Ninjas, become real Ninjas, since 2008. I can't help but touch it at work. It sucks. ~40XB-shooter |
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Originally Posted By phideaux:
anytime I rebarrel an AR, I but the barrel in vice blocks real close to the upper and crank down on the vice handle. then torque the barrel nut to spec. I've been doing it this same way for years, never had a problem. I also use the aluminum vice blocks on the barrel. |
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Originally Posted By Flamethrower:
Originally Posted By CAR-15:
The correct tool is this: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK You will never crack an upper with this setup I had one like this and it shattered the 3rd time I used it. You got a bad one. My Brownells works great and takes lots of torque. |
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Originally Posted By magnum_99:
Originally Posted By Flamethrower:
Originally Posted By CAR-15:
The correct tool is this: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK You will never crack an upper with this setup I had one like this and it shattered the 3rd time I used it. You got a bad one. My Brownells works great and takes lots of torque. Good thing about Brownells is everything you buy from them is guaranteed for life. |
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You can try the new Armalite vice clamp for AR10 and AR15 flattops
http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=15901202&ReturnUrl=Categories.aspx?Category=d2335413-439f-4a72-bf05-37886dae666c |
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Seriously. Went to Walmart, picked up a $6 Delrin UHMW cutting board . squeeze it from the outside, with a spacer in the upper so you don't crush it. |
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"This is a Glock & Wesson 45mm FPO designed in 1789 by Colt Koch"
I should be in the desert blowing up the sunshine. NRA Life Member Mechanical, Manufacturing, Mining and Explosives Engineer |
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use a clamshell clamp from brownells.
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Originally Posted By KiowaCreekRaider:
Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
I've always been shouted down because "it didn't break mine!!" when I tell people not to use receiver blocks that hold the take down pins.
Sorry for your loss OP. Try the clamshell type. Cheap, simple, and they work. This Invest I have broken a couple barrel wrenches using a cheater bar while using the clamshell, trying to dislodge an Armalite barrel nut. No damage to the upper. |
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Simple Solutions to Complex problems.
SEMPER FI, DO OR DIE! NRA Life Member SASS Life Member |
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Nothing but a clamshell for me. It puts all the stress on the beefiest parts of the upper.
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Proud Member of Team Ranstad...The Fantastic Bastards
Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups. Circa 11/08 :( Would cockroach semen make a good gun lube? |
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Originally Posted By madcratebuilder:
Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
I've always been shouted down because "it didn't break mine!!" when I tell people not to use receiver blocks that hold the take down pins.
Sorry for your loss OP. Try the clamshell type. Cheap, simple, and they work. People use the pin style block the wrong way. They pin the upper then put the block in the vise. It's gonna break! Do this. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/Temps/pri02.jpg Two pieces of delrin well do the same. This, especially with the DPMS block that supports the inside of the receiver too. Use one of the pieces of cutting board to protect the rail and the receiver block at the bottom. FWIF I usually one of the clamshell blocks because it was cheaper and quicker to get my hands on when I needed one than the pin style block, but the pin style block is easier to use when installing some forearms and that sort of thing, so I feel that it is a little more versatile. |
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