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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/10/2005 2:15:52 PM EDT
Anyone ever done this? This was brought up as an idea in another post. I'd never really though of trying it, but wondered if anyone else had any luck with it.

THANKS
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 2:18:27 PM EDT
Are you talking about installing a setscrew to keep it tight? I didn't do it, but I thought long and hard about doing it when I had my YHM FF. Instead, I disassembled the upper and recycled/sold the parts, as applicable.
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 2:20:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/10/2005 2:21:41 PM EDT by rcoers]

Originally Posted By mongo001:
Are you talking about installing a setscrew to keep it tight? YES I didn't do it, but I thought long and hard about doing it when I had my YHM FF. Instead, I disassembled the upper and recycled/sold the parts, as applicable.



What did you get instead? A better FF?
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 2:31:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/10/2005 2:32:35 PM EDT by mongo001]

Originally Posted By rcoers:

Originally Posted By mongo001:
Are you talking about installing a setscrew to keep it tight? YES I didn't do it, but I thought long and hard about doing it when I had my YHM FF. Instead, I disassembled the upper and recycled/sold the parts, as applicable.



What did you get instead? A better FF?



I went to DD rails.

To me, the setscrew installation would be pretty easy if you had a drill press. I'd drill a hole, halfway into the rail lock nut and halfway into the rail. If I'm picturing everything correctly in my head, you'd drill through both of those and into the barrel nut itself. I'd try to hit it in the web between two holes in the barrel nut, so there is more meat to thread for the setscrew. I would only drill the length of the setscrew plus enough length to get a bottom tap in there to give you enough threads for the setscrew to sit at least flush when installed. After threading, I'd install the setscrew with some Loctite 242 (blue Loctite). I'd have absolutely no worries from that point forward, as there will be no way for anything to work loose and the rail itself is going nowhere.

That's just me, though. Some say I'm stronger than I look/than I think I am and I twisted off two YHM rail systems with a FVG, so I went away from YHM FF tubes. Others have success with them.
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 2:39:58 PM EDT
How about using an AR-10 ARMS mount on a flattop AR-15 with the mount clamping onto the first inch or so of the top rail? I have mine set up with the ARMS AR-15 rail set about an inch forward right now, but I think an AR-10 mount would look better and be a little more secure. Anyone else try this?
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 2:50:40 PM EDT
Thanks for the info. I may try and give this a go. Mine has seemed to work itself loose, and it wants to rock back and forth when I'm using a VFG. I wish I would have saved a few bucks and went with the DD or Larue. Lesson learned I guess.
Link Posted: 8/11/2005 5:04:34 AM EDT
Mine came loose once.




Then I disassembled it(The FF and the jam nut) cleaned up the theads, loc tited both side and assembled it bacl. No more probs since. I used Blue Loc Tite.
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 10:11:18 AM EDT
Out of curiosity, what are you guys using to tighten the jam nut when you're doing the installation?
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 10:18:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2005 10:21:59 AM EDT by mongo001]

Originally Posted By Fenian:
Out of curiosity, what are you guys using to tighten the jam nut when you're doing the installation?



A spanner wrench, essentially a fancier wrench than the one the YHM sells.

Link Posted: 8/17/2005 10:55:11 AM EDT
okay...I'm surprised that it comes loose...I guess I'll actually have to get my guns out to the range once and a while and see what happens. I got 4 YHM tubes of one variety or another, and the way I cranked down on the jam nut, I didn't think it could ever come loose. But, I can't argue with the folks who've actually experienced it.
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 12:14:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2005 12:18:17 PM EDT by ROUGH]
Prior to installing the lock ring and tube use a degreaser acetone/brake cleaner, ect.
on the barrel nut outer threads and the lockring ring and ff tube inner threads.
Now with that fully degreased I put on alot of thread locker on the barrel nut, enough to
cover all of the threads across the barrel nut. then I used my aluminum vertical fore grip
and attached it between the top reciever rail and the top rail on the free float tube making
sure it was very tight. Now that the rails were perfectly lined up I used the YHM wrench
to tighien the lockring and the fore grip acted as an opposing force fore me to tighten the nut twoards.

After the first outing with 150 rounds fired with the rifle still warm I used the YHM wrench and tried
to loosen the lockring and only ended up with bashed knuckles.
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 2:58:17 PM EDT
tag
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 3:04:03 PM EDT
Thread locker works, namely Loctite 242, or blue Loctite. Just don't expect an easy time getting it apart. I can attest to both of these.
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