Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
4/22/2019 5:32:20 PM
Posted: 3/19/2013 2:57:38 PM EDT
I know I'm new but I can't find the difference, at least visually online. I'm really after a barrel with and fsb that has been fitted then shipped separately so I can install some kind of float tube. And replace the taper pins. Am I talking out my ass or am I over my head at the moment? Please let me know.
Link Posted: 3/19/2013 5:18:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/19/2013 5:22:34 PM EDT by Big-Bore]
A stripped barrel will be the barrel only but it WILL have the barrel extension installed and the chamber headspaced to standard bolt specs. A stripped barrel will also have the gas block area machined and the gas port drilled but it will NOT have the taper pin holes drilled because they need to be drilled at the same time the front sight gas block tower is drilled. There is no standard for taper pin hole location so each rifle is unique unto itself as to location. It will also no have a gas block or muzzle device.
When they talk about a threaded barrel they are talking about the muzzle being threaded for a muzzle device. If it is listed as 'unthreaded' then the muzzle will of course be unthreaded and they may be offered this way for target rifles or for states that have a flash suppressor ban in affect.

If you are wanting a standard front sight tower then you need to order a barrel offered that way and it will be up to you to remove the taper pins and remove the front sight tower for putting on the handguard. Taper pins do not need to be replaced and can be reused. Since they are as their name implies, tapered, you need to measure and make sure you drive them out from small end toward the large end. Make notes on which way that was and then install them from the direction they came out. There is a standard for which side is the large side but I do not have that committed to memory since I never use fixed front sight towers so when I run across them a quick check with the calipers tells the story on which way to drive them out.
Link Posted: 3/19/2013 5:36:48 PM EDT
Thank you very much. So on a new barrel It shouldn't be an issue to remove the pins (from the proper side) without messing anything up?
Link Posted: 3/19/2013 5:59:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/19/2013 6:00:51 PM EDT by Big-Bore]
I cannot promise that. Sometimes the line apes at the manufacture will really pound those suckers in. USUALLY they come out without any trouble since the maker knows you are going to have to remove it to install the barrel nut... but I cannot promise that with 100% certainty. If you do find they are in there tight use a heavy hammer and do not peck at it; give them a good hard whack. Use a flat tipped punch and if you find that they do not want to budge, if you can find a taper pin punch with a concave head then you can really beat the heck out of it without flattening the taper pin heads. I have only come across one barrel where the taper pins were in so tightly that I flattened the the tips using a flat punch and then for cosmetic purposes I had to replace the taper pins. Not a big loss since they are only about a buck each but that was also on a factory assembled rifle. If I were a betting man I would wager that if you buy a barrel with the front tower installed the taper pins will be in but not driven in so tightly that they will not come out easily. It would be just stupid for the maker to put them in tightly when they know good and well you are just going to have to remove them before assembly.
Top Top