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Posted: 10/27/2006 5:31:03 AM EST
I can only imagine how much this topic has been discussed, but i don't find anything in a search. So, whats the best way...best products.
Thanks for any help!
Link Posted: 10/27/2006 5:39:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/27/2006 5:39:50 AM EST by Duffy]
A proper shooting stance and a good firm cheekweld will reduce it. If you're looking for mechanical means to help you, MSTN's Quiet Control brake is very good at it, along with other brakes in that configuration. OPS Inc's brakes are good too, it's not much louder than a flash suppressor.
I've also used brakes made by Jet Suppressors on my .308 and .223 rifles, they're loud but effective.

The .223 version of the Jetsuppressors brake has better flash suppression than the OPS Inc. 2 port brake, at least with the ammo I used last weekend at the AZ MG shoot.
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 6:14:23 AM EST

thanks for the help. Would you say the MSTN brake is better than the Ops Ins. or are they the same? Any body else have some suggestions.
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 6:24:24 AM EST

Originally Posted By creedlemyerjones:
thanks for the help. Would you say the MSTN brake is better than the Ops Ins. or are they the same? Any body else have some suggestions.


Not Duffy, but I would imagine that the MSTN brake is better at reducing muzzle rise than the Ops Inc., as the MSTN brake has more ports. The two breaks were designed with very different purposes in mind, the Ops Inc. being intended for use with a suppressor, where it would act as the first baffle.

If you're using it alone, and not using it in conjunction with a suppressor, then there are much better brakes out there, like the MSTN QC brake.

Also, you may wany to consider looking at recoil reducing buffers, particularly the MGI Rate Reducing/Recoil Reducing Buffer. It's reputed to do an excellent job of taming muzzle rise, and reducing felt recoil.

Hope this helps.

Justin
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 6:34:15 AM EST
originally from Duffy


A proper shooting stance and a good firm cheekweld will reduce it.


That will solve 90% of Muzzle climb issues, Watch how most shooters stand and shoot. they lean way back, have lost there center of gravity and just let the gun go where it wants to.
'Another "mechanical" device to think about is a Vertical fore grip. If used correctly, can eliminate a lot of the muzzle climb by pulling the gun straight back into your shoulder. Using the mag well as a hold hold works well to and is free.

5.56MM is not known for it's massive recoil. So a little technique vs spending money will take you a long way...
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 6:41:06 AM EST
Solid shooting stance, a good muzzle brake, an MGI buffer, and a foregrip should get you about as far as you can go with taming recoil.

I heard of some guys using voodoo magic, but I haven't read that many reviews on it.
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 8:31:14 AM EST
it is wasn't so dang loud I would recommend the mini y comp. That thing works great! however it is too loud
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 9:30:17 AM EST
The best brake out there is the JP Recoil Eliminator. Add in his Low Mass Operating System and it's ridiculous.

The best "tactical" compensator is the TSS Rolling Thunder.

For a "flash suppressor" I'd have to lean towards the Phantom from YHM (?).

Rich
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 11:57:08 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/28/2006 12:01:07 PM EST by Duffy]
The OPS Inc. brake isn't as loud as brakes with more ports, those also seem to work better at reducing the muzzle flip. When I got the MSTN QC brake from Wes of MSTN, his repeated forewarning was that the .223 version works better than the .308 brake. This isn't to say the .308 is a lessor brake, only the .308 round generates so much energy, it mitigates some of the effects of the brake.

The OPS Inc. brake's front end is hollow like an expansion chamber. As stated, to my dismay, the flash suppression was better than a naked muzzle but the JetSuppressor's 4 port brake was better, at least with the ammo I used. In full auto, with the OPS Inc brake and 9mm buffer (on an MRP with a PEQ2A and Surefire M900 on it...heavy!), I feel a gentle push. Same lower, 11.5" heavy barrel and RAS and JetSupressor's 4 port brake, I don't remember, probably because I felt too little to notice

Even an A2 compensator/flash suppressor helps to reduce it, it just doesn't work as well. Last week at the AZ MG shoot, the blast enhancer/4port brake on my HK51 was loose and would spin when a long burst was fired, it was hilarious to watch the muzzle make a circle in long bursts as the brake directed gas in all different directions, as if the shooter was making an O with the weapon

This video illustrates the effect of a brake spinning on a short barreled .308 in full auto here
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 1:13:17 PM EST
Make sure you are using a good flash suppressor (A2 birdcage, Vortex, Phantom) instead of a muzzle break. A propper shooting stance is essential for beginners, but as you are more comfortable, you will be able to better control the rifle from various positions. Also, a vertical foregrip helps control the front end.
Link Posted: 10/28/2006 3:52:52 PM EST
Thanks for posting everyone. I think my stance fits the criteria. I am asking because the other day I shot my friends HK 94 and I was absolutely shocked on how dead it stayed on target...I know they are total different weapon and caliber have
Again, thanks everyone.
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