I was looking to build a 20" A2 on one of the extra lowers that I have.  I of course would like to get into this one without spending a fortune so I've looked at parts kits from M&A and Delton and M1.  I've seen negative comments on M1 for sure but am still curious about the other two.  This gun will just be an occasional plinker.  Who in your opinion makes the best kit.  M&A and Delton seem to be using Wilson barrels just like my Rock River.  What are the concerns with these parts kits, part breakage or failure?  If so, which are the most prone and would it solve the problem with a $50 RRA lower parts kit?  

I would like to spray it when I finish with some of my Norrells but will have to dismantle to fit in the oven in the kitchen.  I've been reading that headspacing is not a huge concern.  Is this true?  Is it as simple to take these apart and put them back together as it seems from the barrel point of view.  I am pretty good with these sorts of things but the headspace issue has bothered me.  Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.  

Edited to add:
Would this work?
Stag arms lower
RRA 20" A2 upper
RRA Buttstock
RRA lower parts kit
I can find these around for about $610+shipping

Sounds like a pretty good combo and I will not worry about the parts either.
A chrome lined upper and kit was about $500 from Delton so add the lower cost to that and they will cost about the same.  


Glenn

Proper headspace is the difference between holding a rifle (good HS) and a grenade (bad HS) next to your head when you pull the trigger. Be careful. A Gunsmith,

I think that Tweak brought up a good point that no many people want to believe.  A good barrel and bolt, are the heart and soul of the weapon.  Everything else is secondary at best.  

In the case of RRA, if you are buying a completed upper from them, it will have already been test fired and checked for headspace at the factory.  Unlike many other weapons, the headspace is preset on the barrel and bolt, and taking it apart is NOT going to change anything.  It sounds like this is what you were worried about.

I've never heard of any headspacing issues with RRA, and in general, I think your listed setup would work out pretty well.  I'm not sure why you would have to disassemble the upper to get it to fit.  If your oven is too small, check and see if the upper will fit if placed inside at an angle.  There are several times I've had to suspend one end of the upper in the top corner of the oven, while the barrel pointed at a downward angle across to the other side.

If its a close fit, pull the A2 FS off the barrel, and let the threads touch the bottom of the oven.  There may be a tiny discoloration on the end of the threads, but you eliminate this when you thread the FS back onto the end of the muzzle.  

Its probably also worth noting that the Norrell Moly Resin webpage recommends spraying the finish with a light coat of oil when pulled from the oven.  

Parts should be coated in light oil immediately after cured and cooled. The oil will improve the appearance of the dry cured coating and prevent marks, etc. from occurring when handling newly cured parts for assembly.

Let me know if that helped answer your question, or if I read it wrong.

Suspended, it may fit but my 16" with the upper attached was hitting the back and the front when on one shelf.  You did answer my headspace question.  Basically, if I take this apart and put it back together, it should not change the HS.  I have the upper/lower vise block and the wrench to take it apart if I need to I guess.  I would like to coat all of the small parts including the flash suppressor and FSB in flat black and the upper, lower, and barrel in OD green to match one of my pistols.  Thanks again for the help and if you can think of anything else, please let me know.  By the way, what was the quote from Norrells directed toward Stickman?  Handling the parts for reassembly?  I have coated the other parts with oil for my pistols with good luck mainly going by the instructions that you have posted in the past for AR refinishing.  Thanks for the good info.  That post got me started on NMR and has cost me a nice chunk of money (spray, airbrush, blasting cabinet, aluminum oxide, etc.)  But, I am planning on just spraying right over the anodizing on the new components, isn't that what you recommended in your post on finishing?  Is this finish fairly resilent when sprayed over the anodizing?  Thanks guys.  GS

Just read another post by you SM.  I did not realize that the coat with oil was new in the instructions because it was in the first batch that I ordered about a month ago.  Now I see where the comment was headed earlier.  Thanks for the heads up.  GS

You won't have any problems spraying over anodizing, and if you have done pistols, you already know all about the prep work and reassembly.  

I threw in the quote from Norrells because several people have had questions about it, so I figure I would mention it.  Not an issue for you as you've done it before, it just new on teh website.

If I was doing it, I would try to work out an angle and let the muzzle sit on the deck.  If not, rip er apart and get to work.  It certainly isn't a big deal either way.



I'm glad you liked the refinishing thread, but I feel like a crack salesman at times.  The stuff is plain addictive.