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Posted: 10/2/2004 3:42:29 PM EST
I have a model 1 sales m4 kit. if the rifle is on safe and it gets charged, the hammer which is already in the cocked position, is dragging on the underside of the bolt carrier. It makes it really hard to charge the rifle while it is on safe. Im in the military and my issued colt doesnt have this problem. So whats up?
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 4:08:27 PM EST
It's not a COLT ! I think that pretty much answers your question.....
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 4:12:01 PM EST
Iv handled many different brands. None with this problem. Besides I wouldn't buy a colt. Bushmaster would be my choice if I had the funds.
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 10:53:49 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/2/2004 11:02:06 PM EST by hughjafj]
All the selector does is hold the trigger. I don't see how it could effect the bolt or hammer. What receiver is on it? Maybe the hammer pivot pin hole is off. Also, how are you getting it on safe when it is not charged? It's not supposed to do that.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:19:08 AM EST
Your issued weapon is just a bit more broken in.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:33:58 AM EST
I have to charge it to put it on safe, yes. But if I had to pull the charging handle back again while the rifle is in safe position, maybe if I or someone else was clearing the weapon, the bolt drags across the hammer. The weapon functions fine. Ive never had a problem with the trigger and I performed a functions check and it checked out perfect. It is like the control group is to high in the lower reciever. Ive even filed a little off the back of the hammer to try to get it to clear the bolt.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:34:36 AM EST
I used a rock river arms lower and it looks fine to me.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:45:14 AM EST
I have had to remove some material from the rear of the disconector deck of the trigger on the model 1 sales kits, especially on tight recievers like RRA or STAG. The hammer notch stop applies downward pressure to the trigger while racking. Without some relief on the disconector deck to safety engagement this can cause the hammer to drag. A good gage is if while the hammer and sear are in full engagement you should "just" be able to remove or insert the selector. The other alternative you have is to remove material from the hammer notch stop, This will increase sear engagement and length of trigger pull. Be mindfull that you can remove to much from the rear deck efectively rendering safety useless. Also be certain that any modification does not stage the trigger and when racking cycle is complete the sear returns to full engagement.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:06:58 PM EST
I removed a little off of the hammer notch stop with my dremel and now I have FULL AUTO!!! Just kidding It functions great now. No drag. Thanks!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:52:51 PM EST

Originally Posted By Smithy:
I removed a little off of the hammer notch stop with my dremel and now I have FULL AUTO!!! !



Bonus!!
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