This is what my new Bushy zeroed to.  Is this common or is there a way I can fix it?  Not that big of a deal to me, but I'm kind of a perfectionist and I feel the grass on my friends ar side is greener, his didn't have to do that (he has a colt match target).  Should I take it up with Bushmaster?  The gunsmith at the range said it is common for the zeroed setting to not be in the middle, but said I might have a problem if I need to actually account for wind coming from the right.

thanks.

-mark

http://www.desicomputer.com/images/camera013a.jpg

I beleive if it's over 12 clicks windage, from center position,  either way, then it's out of spec.

someone will be along in a few to correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure.

I have noticed that poor shooting form or not looking straight on through the rear peep will cause you to adjust your windage when there really may be no need to, it possibly could be solved by evaluating your shooting posture.

I may be wrong on this but I believe that alot of shots not being on the mark when the windage is aligned center is due to poor shooting posture.  And its blamed on the gun being out of spec. when its not.

ok, when I shoot, I shoot sitting down.  Is this in the area of what you're talking about?  Is it where I place my head behind the sight along the stock?  Can you help me out with this, with some tips, I'm gonna shoot in a few days I'll try it out, I'd really like it if that was the problem.

-mark

Here’s the idea,  
With your nose on the charging handle, look threw the rear ring, focus on the front post, and let the target slightly bur.  Basic stuff, but to zero, you just need to move the rear sight and your eye will move to center out in regards to the rear ring.

As long as you keep a solid check weld to the stock and you groupings are staying tight, it's not a check weld/face-positioning problem.  

Now for centering the rear sight for a center zero, you just need to move the front sight post in the opposite direction as the rear to center it out.  Either reinstalling the barrel, or just drifting the entire barrel in the upper socket via a leather mallet to the front sight tower, can do this. Best to just go within a few clicks of center since ammo and wind will change the POI/zero from day to day.

Myself, I pick the ammo that I will most likely shoot threw the rifle; find an indoor range (tunnel) and zero out the rear sight via shifting the front tower/barrel.  This way, I can use the center point of the rear sight for a repeatable zero, which allows me a point to return to over the course of different distances/different days of firing (environment conditions) and adjust from there.

Tweak,

Where does the 12 click figure come from exactly?

Prelimarily it looks like my new LMT upper is shooting 2 inches right at 25 yards, so I'm wondering.

Thanks!

That front sight post kinda lokks a little canted in the picture.  Not sure if it even is but it could be part of the problem.

Quoted: That front sight post kinda looks a little canted in the picture.  Not sure if it even is but it could be part of the problem.

The barrel/sight tower was installed with the sight tower  index to the right of the center line of the rifle, and is the reason that the rear sight has to be cranked to the right to zero.  The barrel needs to be index corrected back to the left to center out the rear sight for a dead center zero.

Tweak, I checked the TM's and didn't see a specific range of values. Can you point me the right direction?

Quoted: ... but said I might have a problem if I need to actually account for wind coming from the right.

I don't know anybody that adjusts the A1 sights to correct for wind.

The only guys who do are the guys shooting High Power matches with their A2s.  It's a non issue for the most part.