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Posted: 2/12/2007 2:49:03 PM EST
How difficult is it to build an ar10? If so, what is different? Thanks
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 3:12:14 PM EST
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 3:14:16 PM EST
Since there are few building processes different, would it be inappropriate to ask which ones? Thanks.

Better yet, where can I find more information?
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 3:59:58 PM EST
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 4:07:31 PM EST
I found that it was really not that difficult.. Here is the one I built in December. This pic was taken last Saturday.. Runs like a champ.. I bought the lower complete with National match trigger and built the upper mostly from parts from the EE.. And the bolt and lower were the only parts I bought new.
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 4:16:25 PM EST
Thanks guys. I thought that assembling an ar10 was much more difficult than the ar15. I very well may have to get my hands dirty with one of these after all. Thanks again
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 7:11:55 PM EST
Anyone have a parts list of manufactures for building an AR 10?
Link Posted: 2/12/2007 7:20:48 PM EST
Link Posted: 2/13/2007 8:59:32 AM EST
Is DPMS just as good as armalite/eagle?

and does the buffer tube have any differences like the ar15: milspec vs non milspec? '

Link Posted: 2/13/2007 9:18:45 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/13/2007 9:50:08 AM EST
Thanks AR15 barrels, you have been a great help. anytime I have had a question about a build, you have given me (and everyone for that matter) sound advice. Just want to give credit where it is due. A big thanks to everyone else's input as well. I love this site, it has made my black rifle experience a great one.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 12:39:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/26/2007 12:45:26 PM EST by 5654]
Originally Posted By AR15barrels:
Rear takedown pin detent installs from the bottom of the receiver instead of the rear.
It is retained by the pistol grip instead of the stock.

I have just finished an AR10T build and this seemingly small difference in detail has me wringing my hands now (I have to work on not being so anal). Anyway, for whatever reason, Armalite decided to index the take down pin detent at 6 o'clock. Doing so obviously positions the detent "channel" in the takedown pin at 6 o' clock also. If you mic the takedown pin through the channel cross section you will notice the dimension is about .020" smaller than the perpendicular dimension. This causes the upper receiver to slop up/down significantly. Turning the pin 90° (detent and spring not installed) with the upper/lower connected removes the slop because the channel is no longer the "bearing surface" for the upper takedown hole.

My local gunsmith would not attempt to redrill the detent hole in the normal AR15 location due to the limited amount of material on the adjacent external surface. The possibility for bit walk and punching through the side of the receiver was too great (you will notice a raised area on AR15 lowers that adds reinforcement for the detent hole to prevent this).

My next plan is to mod (via dremel) my takedown pin with a slot in the head and a new selector style detent stop 90° from the current one next to the pin head. This will allow the pin to be pushed in as designed but then turned [ETA via 308 cartridge rim] 90° clockwise (viewed from starboard) to move the "channel" into the 9o'clock position and snug the upper down like it is supposed to be.

Maybe AR15barrels would venture into producing such a part to supply the AR10 growth industry.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 1:15:29 PM EST
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 3:54:01 PM EST
I would seriously look into DPMS 308 models. I have yet to hear anything negative about them (except for maybe the stock trigger).

When I go 308, that's where i'll go. Just waitin' on the $$.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 6:04:30 PM EST
The upper is a factory built Eagle Arms 10T. I don't know what the spec is, but the rear hole (takedown pin hole) is oblong forward/aft. The same oblong hole is on my Colt upper. I have always thought this was to allow tolorance stackup between receivers.

Since the upper hole is oblong the flat spot on the pin is the bearing surface rather than the whole lower half of the pin as would be the case for a round holed upper.

I'm probably being way too anal, but the slop goes away when I rotate the pin so the channel faces aft.
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