Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 9/15/2002 7:07:01 AM EST
I only use clp to clean my barrel does anyone else do this?Is there a reason I should be using bore cleaner solvent?
Link Posted: 9/16/2002 11:32:23 AM EST
Yep that is all I use.

Then again I follow the -10 to insure my rifle is kept in optimal working order....
(that should start some controversy <G>).
Link Posted: 9/21/2002 8:33:30 PM EST
CLP does not remove copper, Copper solvent removes copper.

Start off your barrel cleaning, (After wiping down the inside of the upper) with bore solvent, then after you make your last clean patch pass, give the barrel and gas tube a shot of CLP. Let it sit for a minute to allow the CLP to run down the gas tube, then run another patch down the barrel to soak up the CLP, and leave a fine coat to protect the bore against rust.

Hope this helps.

P.S If you don't mind the smell of bat piss, Sweets work really fast on removing the copper.
Link Posted: 9/22/2002 4:06:44 AM EST
After I break down the rifle I run a patch soaked real good with Hoppe's No. 9 thru the barrel then set it asside and tend to the bolt, carrier and lower and inside of the upper then I run a couple of dry patches thru and continue with CLP alternating wet and dry till they look clean comming out.
Link Posted: 9/22/2002 4:52:05 AM EST
I use the good old #9 on bores too. The final rinse is CLP for the above mentioned preservative properties.
Link Posted: 9/22/2002 12:34:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/22/2002 12:42:23 PM EST by Minuteman419]
I've recently tried Butches Bore Shine and it too will really cut the copper out. I was told by someone who should know, not to leave it in the barrel over 15 minutes, especially on stainless. Not quite as hard on the nostrils as Sweets, but every bit as effective. A dozen shots of FMJ in my 1/9 and the patches come out blue as blazes at first. I don't let copper build up in any of my barrels. There are also other "Treatments" that you can put in the bore that are supposed to stop/slow down the fouling.
If the bore is rough and fouls easily that requires more extreme measures. IMO.

BTW, Hoppes also makes a solvent especially for Semi-Automatic weapons. It supposedly doesn't leave residue which will attract burnt powder, dust and crap. I've used it, it has a Silver Label and says "Semi Auto Solvent" on it. "Try it, you'll like it".
Then use your CLP.
Link Posted: 10/7/2002 1:05:10 AM EST
I first use Shooter's Choice on the bore and then CLP on everything else, including the bore to prevent rust.
Link Posted: 10/8/2002 9:05:20 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/8/2002 9:05:46 PM EST by AR15fan]
50/50 mix of GM Top Engine Cleaner and Kroil for the Brl.

FWIW GM Top Engine Cleaner is almost exactly the same formula as Shooters Choice brl cleaner, but about 1/10th the cost.

Buches Bore shine has a really good rep too.

I dont like Sweets becuase it will eventually eat through the bottle it comes in (takes about 3 years).
Link Posted: 10/16/2002 5:29:44 AM EST
I generally don't care for all-in-one products. They do nothing well. Having said that, CLP is useful as a field-expedient solution - - you only have to carry one little bottle.

For normal cleaning bench work, I use Shooter's Choice to clean everything: bore, bolt, carrier, tube, etc. Lube with FP-10. Have never had any problems.

I'd be careful with Hoppe's #9. Fine for your bolt-action bore and old lever-action, but it can easily gum up in small places (firing pin channel, carrier key, for example). under the influences of dirt and heat.
Link Posted: 10/20/2002 9:39:10 PM EST

Originally Posted By Minuteman419:
A dozen shots of FMJ in my 1/9 and the patches come out blue as blazes at first.

A good point is made here. Totally removing copper is not justifies unless you are using corrosive ammo. No need to worry about that with any milsurp or US commercial ammo that I know of.

I used to try to get my barrels perfectly clean until I started reading what some RKIs here on the boards had to say about the issue.

Copper is, to a certain extent, self limiting. It works like a "filler" smoothing out small indentations/imperfections in your bore. Get a bore perfectly clean and you're back to a copper "filled" bore before you empty one mag!

For a non bench-rester, use a copper solvent after 1000 rounds - or when accuracy suffers. Your barrel doesn't care if it is lined with copper or not. Wear your barrel out from shooting your weapon - not from cleaning it!
Link Posted: 10/21/2002 4:02:17 AM EST
I recently read that one of the by-products of burning Teflon/PTFE is corrosive...I wonder if that is why some shooters were reporting that they found the SA surplus ammo to be 'slightly corrosive'?? If they were shooting it in a non-chrome lined barrel that had traces of CLP in it? someting to think about
Top Top