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Posted: 9/2/2008 7:00:16 PM EST
I did my first just now with only a pocket knife. only took 30 minutes and most of that was looking for the takedown pin detents that went flying. i need kns pins though, ive got rra oversized that came with my nm trigger and i can push them in and out by hand. Now all i need is an upper and channellocks!
Link Posted: 9/2/2008 7:44:46 PM EST
If it's a challenge you seek, there's always blindfolded. Underwater? Behind your back?

Have fun!
Link Posted: 9/2/2008 7:49:18 PM EST
under water it might be easier to find the take pin detent in swpring when it goes flying, lol
Link Posted: 9/2/2008 7:50:21 PM EST
my last build would have been a piece of cake if it didnt take a metric ton of force to get the roll pins in. I need to sand and lube those suckers like there's no tomorrow! CMMG LPK with Spikes lower.
Link Posted: 9/2/2008 10:44:37 PM EST

Originally Posted By zul:
my last build would have been a piece of cake if it didnt take a metric ton of force to get the roll pins in. I need to sand and lube those suckers like there's no tomorrow! CMMG LPK with Spikes lower.


Do you have a vise, dial calipers, drill bits, and CLP?

First check the hole diameter on your lower with your drill bits and check the diameter with your calipers. Next, check the diameter of the roll pin you need to press/drive in (bolt stop or trigger guard).

The trigger guard is the trickest install for me, so this is how I've done all of mine after the first two lower parts kit installs.

I check the roll pin versus the lower for the diameters with my calipers and drill bits. The roll pin is usually approximately 5 thousands larger in diameter and is a pain to install even if lubed (roll pin and the lower trigger guard hole).

I place the roll pin in my bench vise and slowly squeeze/apply pressure and try to reduce the diameter by about 3 thousands.

Then with copious/abundant/plentiful (but not liberal) use of CLP or any other slippery lube, I press/drive the roll pin into the lower and thereby install the trigger guard.

I did not like trying to install the trigger guard roll pin using alot of force into such a delicate area, even with it sufficiently supported.

YMMV, and I welcome comments.

Link Posted: 9/3/2008 1:25:02 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2008 1:28:04 AM EST by shrikefan]

Originally Posted By Condition_1:

Originally Posted By zul:
my last build would have been a piece of cake if it didnt take a metric ton of force to get the roll pins in. I need to sand and lube those suckers like there's no tomorrow! CMMG LPK with Spikes lower.


Do you have a vise, dial calipers, drill bits, and CLP?

First check the hole diameter on your lower with your drill bits and check the diameter with your calipers. Next, check the diameter of the roll pin you need to press/drive in (bolt stop or trigger guard).

The trigger guard is the trickest install for me, so this is how I've done all of mine after the first two lower parts kit installs.

I check the roll pin versus the lower for the diameters with my calipers and drill bits. The roll pin is usually approximately 5 thousands larger in diameter and is a pain to install even if lubed (roll pin and the lower trigger guard hole).

I place the roll pin in my bench vise and slowly squeeze/apply pressure and try to reduce the diameter by about 3 thousands.

Then with copious/abundant/plentiful (but not liberal) use of CLP or any other slippery lube, I press/drive the roll pin into the lower and thereby install the trigger guard.

I did not like trying to install the trigger guard roll pin using alot of force into such a delicate area, even with it sufficiently supported.

YMMV, and I welcome comments.



The trigger guard hole in the ears on the lower should be larger than the roll pin. The hole in the trigger guard (flat piece with plunger) should be smaller than the roll pin. If not you are asking for a broken ear on the lower.

ETA - buy a detent pin installation tool or make one out of a piece of wooden dowel rod.
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 7:21:25 AM EST
I don't understand why everyone's detent pins go flying. I installed the rear pin by mistake in the front, removed it, and installed the front pin all without having anything fly anywhere. I just used a razor blade.
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 1:42:52 PM EST
The roll pins used by DPMS, CMMG, and some of the kit build manufacturers suck. I prefer coiled pins to split pins, always go in with no problem. Is it just me, or are the DPMS and CMMG lpk's remarkably similar?
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 2:10:55 PM EST
that i dont know but my roll pin installed just fine on my dpms lower
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 4:19:39 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2008 4:20:30 PM EST by rip2k3]
I thought the front pivot and rear take down spring and detent were the same size????Tell me I am not wrong. My kit from CMMG will arrive Friday.
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 11:10:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2008 11:10:51 PM EST by shrikefan]

Originally Posted By rip2k3:
I thought the front pivot and rear take down spring and detent were the same size????Tell me I am not wrong. My kit from CMMG will arrive Friday.


They are.

I think Macgyver meant he switched the pivot pin and take down pin.
Link Posted: 9/4/2008 3:17:10 AM EST
I have to install the trigger guard and the bolt catch and I'll be done. I completely agree about how easy it was. This is my first build and I'm having a great time!
Link Posted: 9/4/2008 4:31:20 PM EST

Originally Posted By Blacksheep32:
I have to install the trigger guard and the bolt catch and I'll be done. I completely agree about how easy it was. This is my first build and I'm having a great time!


Vise grips and a lotta masking tape for both.
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