Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
10/30/2020 2:42:12 PM
Posted: 10/15/2008 9:45:27 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/15/2008 9:47:32 AM EST by leo6223]
I read a little of the thread that was locked recently involving barrel break in.

Two things I'll throw my two cents in about.

First, and most surprisingly, I cannot more strongly dissagree with Armalite in regards to breaking in with moly coated bullets.  I don't think anyone can argue that Mike Rock (of Rock creek barrels) has "been around the block" and is very knowledgable about the science behind ballistics and barrels.  That's right....more than opinion, the man spent years upon years working for the government with funding most companies could only dream about researching ballistics and barrels and such.  Rock will tell you, and show you if you are lucky enough, that repeated firing with moly bullets will ruin your barrel.  Here's why in a nutshell:

                Moly coats the inside of the barrel as it wears off the bullet...the copper also wears off and coats the inside of the barrel.  There becomes this repeated coatings of copper/moly/copper/moly and it fuses...yes, fuses to the barrel.  It becomes so hard there is no scraping or cleaning it off.  Rock has seen barrels ruined in a as little as 500 rounds.  Don't argue with me about this.....go talk to Mike Rock if you disagree.  I'm sure even Armalite would have to admit Rock is one of the foremost authorities on barrels and ballistics. (EDIT---yes, in the short run moly bullets do shoot well but I think you'll regret it)

Second point:  Tubbs final finish.  I can't produce empirical data but I can say that I've seen first hand the difference in barrels both before and after.  A gunsmith (one of the best in the country--as recognized by the professional industry) took a borescope and took pictures of the inside of the barrel.  Any high power competitor will tell you that a barrel with a smoother and better cut rifling is going to be superior.  So no, I can't provide evidence as far as group size, barrel life and such.  I can only tell you it will definately smooth the bore out.  Whether that improves your groups is up to you to see.

Link Posted: 10/15/2008 11:22:12 AM EST

threads are locked for a reason not so you can start another to get the last word.
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 12:25:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/15/2008 12:25:37 PM EST by Cold]
Link Posted: 10/15/2008 5:22:24 PM EST
SOmetimes they're locked because some jackass says something stupid completely unrelated to the topic.

What did I say that was off topic?

This was in direct response to what Armalite said about an AR10......


Look at my post....tell me what in it is not technical in nature and aimed at enhancing discussion and exchange of knowledge.

Originally Posted By swatbwana:

threads are locked for a reason not so you can start another to get the last word.
Link Posted: 10/16/2008 7:36:16 AM EST
I mentioned this in the ammo forum. It was for Black Hills ammo I think.  Every body seemed to think it was O.K. I read  it was not good. So I did'nt buy the ammo. Why is ammo cheaper with molley than no malley? Trying to unload it I think.
Link Posted: 10/18/2008 3:27:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/18/2008 3:30:07 PM EST by msgtGENO]
old TOP here:  I can't tell you what's good or bad --only what worked for me. I bought a JP Enterprises Grade II 24" super match upper and first used the TUBB final finish kit EXACTLY as the directions said.  Then I cleaned the remaining fouling and with a bore mop I applied a Generous ammount of  Midway USAs "Moly Bore Prep" thru a Stony Point Uni-bore guide and then let it sit for a minimum of 24hrs but better more.  Then run several Dry patches thru the bore to get out the chunks(you'll never get all the moly out with dry patches).  This marinating-curing allows the Moly molecule (Mo-S2, Molibdinum Di-Sulfide) to "Bond" to the barrel steel and now when shooting Moly bullets you have Moly molecules sliding over Moly molecules--Very slippery , actually becuse of this slipperyness you can use Less powder to obtain the same velocity then if using standard Bbls and jacketed projectiles.  Needless to say your Upper is now a dedicted Moly upper(not a bad thing)  I first learned about Moly in '54 when Alpha-Romeo started to Moly plate their hi-rev upper cam shafts.  Some pople have talked about rust/corrosion in the bbl when using Moly???Who Knows what might have caused their rust/corrosion!  I live in the Florida Keys--a very HOT-HUMID SALTY atmosphere==totally surrounded by warm salty water and Extermely corrosive atmosphere.  If It can rust/corrode it will down here--some plants even rust--HOWEVER I have NEVER observed any rust/corossiion related to moly--maybe others have but not me.  Now the nite befor a match I take that moly swab run it back down the bore --then 2 dry patches and then shoot the 80 round match--not woring about cleaning till after and then only powder/combustion NO jacket fouling CUZ the Jacket never touches the steel.  Now this might not work for you but it works real good for me.  I've got close to 5000 rounds thru that bbl and at last months Any/Any match @ 100 "F" class I had a 10 round .389 CTC group and it regularly shoots sub 1/2 MOA 10 round groups-- if you don't shoot 100-10X strings you'll come in 2nd.  I even shoot Moly in my 1924Carl Gustav 6.5X55 m-41/B Sniper rifle  MOLY-RULES.  THANX--M/sgtGENO  
Top Top