Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 8/11/2017 7:05:24 PM EST
set sail for fail? Or it should be fine?

I'm afraid of using rocksett on it on these tiny screws. don't want them to break on me in case I want to change up.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 7:08:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/11/2017 7:09:06 PM EST by GunDisaster]
Rockset would be better. Blue won't work as well since it might get hot. But then again it might be ok also if you're not doing mag dumps all the time.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 7:24:24 PM EST
Now a days, I don't even use blue or rocksett, I just dimple the barrel and tighten them down and check every once in a while.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 7:44:19 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GunDisaster:
Rockset would be better. Blue won't work as well since it might get hot. But then again it might be ok also if you're not doing mag dumps all the time.
View Quote
^This is what I'd say.

Blue is fine for plinking away but I rockset ones a run a high rpm on. You'll be fine with just proper torque and at least one dimple really.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 7:44:45 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DaveP1:
Now a days, I don't even use blue or rocksett, I just dimple the barrel and tighten them down and check every once in a while.
View Quote
On one block, it has 2 dimples and set screws. On another, it's a clamp on style with 2 bolts.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 8:10:31 PM EST
I use blue loctite on mine. The key is to make sure the threads on both the gas block and set screws are clean. I use denatured alcohol and a q-tip. I also torque them to the proper spec to prevent stripping the threads.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 8:19:22 PM EST
I use red loctite on all mine. They require a heat gun or torch to remove. Even when extremely hot, they have much more resistance to backing out.

Never had one get loose. If I am setting the gun up for the long haul, I stake the gas block into the set screw using an automatic center punch.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 8:43:44 PM EST
I had read about staking the set screws and thought it was a good idea. I kind of forgot about that. I'll have to remember that next time.
Link Posted: 8/11/2017 11:19:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/14/2017 6:09:38 AM EST by nada]
Rocksett gets a bad rap in that folks slather it on like cheap aftershave.

Remember "A little dab will do ya' ". Tighten your set screws, then one at a time place a drop
of Rocksett on the outer most threads of the Gas Block threads, then back out a set screw
until the upper threads of the set screw pick-up some Rocksett juice, then do your final torque on
that set screw (don't go Bubba on those little dudes). "Rinse and repeat." Done.

This method services two purposes: 1) you do not use too much Rocksett; and 2) when you
go to loosen the set screws in the future you only have to overcome a small amount
of Rocksett on the outer threads, so once you back out the set screw a turn or two it gets easier.
Rocket surgery it is not.

Forget: wipe off excess with Q-tip, rag, tongue
Link Posted: 8/14/2017 7:35:49 AM EST
I have used clamp on blocks for many years installed with moly grease and have never had one come loose.
I do not run high sustained rates of fire which might affect the outcome. YMMV
Link Posted: 8/14/2017 9:05:17 AM EST
I use red loctite on my gas blocks and dimple both screw holes with a BRD dimple jig. I have yet to have any gas block back out.
Link Posted: 8/14/2017 2:03:52 PM EST
There are two versions of Blue Loctite. #242 is the usual removable thread locker. #246 is medium strength heat resistant thread locker. It does not require heat to be removed like red loctite, but is ideal for applications where there is some heat. I use it on the set screws on my gas blocks with a dimple in the barrel.
Link Posted: 8/14/2017 2:08:24 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ricrock:
There are two versions of Blue Loctite. #242 is the usual removable thread locker. #246 is medium strength heat resistant thread locker. It does not require heat to be removed like red loctite, but is ideal for applications where there is some heat. I use it on the set screws on my gas blocks with a dimple in the barrel.
View Quote
there's three. 242, 246 and don't forget 243 (243 is basically 242 strength but it's oil resistant and bonds to screws and eares that have grease or oil much better)
Link Posted: 8/15/2017 4:31:14 PM EST
I used blue on my 1st build.
Zero issues.

When I went to take it apart, the screws came out as you would expect.
BUT...
The gas block would not move.
I tryed heat...nothing.
I think some blue got between the barrel and the gas block, and burned into cement!

I built a jig out of oak to hold it and was using a 3 lbs hammer and it didn't move.

Guessing Rainier arms couldn't remove it eather because they replaced the barrel, and the gas block.

I dimpled the next build with no thread locker and its never moved.

The last one, ran them screws in TIGHT and slid on the handguard....
Link Posted: 8/15/2017 11:39:42 PM EST
I'm in the red loctite 272 high temp camp. On dimpled barrels using 25 inch pounds to torque the set screws I've yet to have one back out on me. Removing them hasn't been an issue as well. I'll hit the screws with a torch for a bit and they undo without fuss.
Link Posted: 8/16/2017 6:13:58 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Darkamek:
I use red loctite on my gas blocks and dimple both screw holes with a BRD dimple jig. I have yet to have any gas block back out.
View Quote
Exactly what I do. Takes a torch to get them out, but I've never had one come loose. I used to drill and pin the block. I no longer think that is necessary, but would still do it for a rifle going into harms way.
Link Posted: 8/16/2017 11:56:29 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AvalonRifle:

Takes a torch to get them out
View Quote
A heat gun works nicely. About 5 minutes. Torch is just faster.
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 12:03:15 AM EST
High temp red
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 12:19:34 AM EST
I use red Loctite.

I have never had a problem getting screws out, even when I'm not using any type of heat. The key is not to over do the application. You really don't need that much to keep the screws in place.
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 9:34:17 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ZedsDeadBaby:
I use red Loctite.

I have never had a problem getting screws out, even when I'm not using any type of heat. The key is not to over do the application. You really don't need that much to keep the screws in place.
View Quote
If you get the screws out, without using heat, and you are using RED loctite, then you are applying it incorrectly, IMHO. Red loctite should require heat for removal.
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 2:32:16 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FALARAK:


If you get the screws out, without using heat, and you are using RED loctite, then you are applying it incorrectly, IMHO. Red loctite should require heat for removal.
View Quote
Most people do not apply thread locking adhesive correctly.

I mean how many times have you seen people thoroughly clean and degrease parts?
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 2:51:46 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By lysanderxiii:
I mean how many times have you seen people thoroughly clean and degrease parts?
View Quote
I do.

But then, I do everything right.
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 8:18:58 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/17/2017 8:28:36 PM EST by 871JZ]
No need for red loctite or rocksett.

I've used blue loctite on set screw blocks for years without issue. Many of them before dimpled barrels were common practice. I've assembled and then disassembled some uppers that were ran HARD and still had to put some force into removing the screws.

Two of them in particular with three years and over 9k rounds on them and still had to put some torque on the screws to get them to break free.

People worry too much about this. Clean the threads of the screws and block, add a drop of blue on each screw and lightly torque. Give the threadlocker adequate time to set up before use and you'll be fine.

Also, please don't go gorilla on the set screws. I can't tell you how many guys bring me uppers that they've WAY overtorqued the screws and then strip the heads when trying to remove the block later on down the road. There's also no need to pour threadlocker on the screws. A drop is all you need. In fact, if you feel the need to use red loctite, you can still remove the screws without heat if you only use a small amount. It's unnecessary to over-do-it. If you're still insecure and think your gas block will loosen with use, just lightly stake one or both in place. A very light stake on each screw will guarantee a semi-permanent installation.

Another thing I do on my own builds is use Torx head set screws. It's not necessary as there's no real advantage, but I prefer Torx over Allen fasteners, and can get them easily, so I use them.

Link Posted: 8/18/2017 7:20:04 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
In fact, if you feel the need to use red loctite, you can still remove the screws without heat if you only use a small amount.
View Quote
Red Loctite removal temperatures:

262 and 277 - One round every 3 second, one thirty-round magazine.

272 - One round every second, one thirty round magazine.

(Based on a carbine length gas system, .750 gas block diameter, Govt-profile. For heavy barrels add 15 additional rounds.)


Rocksett is great at high-temperature, medium to low strength applications, but remember, Rocksett has a shear strength of around 450 psi. The red Loctites (high strength) have shear strengths in the 2500 to 3000 psi range.
Link Posted: 8/18/2017 7:40:39 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
No need for red loctite or rocksett.

I've used blue loctite on set screw blocks for years without issue. Many of them before dimpled barrels were common practice. I've assembled and then disassembled some uppers that were ran HARD and still had to put some force into removing the screws.

Two of them in particular with three years and over 9k rounds on them and still had to put some torque on the screws to get them to break free.

People worry too much about this. Clean the threads of the screws and block, add a drop of blue on each screw and lightly torque. Give the threadlocker adequate time to set up before use and you'll be fine.

Also, please don't go gorilla on the set screws. I can't tell you how many guys bring me uppers that they've WAY overtorqued the screws and then strip the heads when trying to remove the block later on down the road. There's also no need to pour threadlocker on the screws. A drop is all you need. In fact, if you feel the need to use red loctite, you can still remove the screws without heat if you only use a small amount. It's unnecessary to over-do-it. If you're still insecure and think your gas block will loosen with use, just lightly stake one or both in place. A very light stake on each screw will guarantee a semi-permanent installation.

Another thing I do on my own builds is use Torx head set screws. It's not necessary as there's no real advantage, but I prefer Torx over Allen fasteners, and can get them easily, so I use them.

https://s17.postimg.org/r6f6qlha7/vyrn_190_Torx_M3x3_04.jpg
View Quote
Me too. I have both clamp on and set screw gas blocks secured with blue medium strength threadlocker. My barrels do get hot and the threadlocker does degrade a little bit, but it keeps right on working. I am able to easily remove my GBs without fuss and reinstall the screws without applying more threadlocker. Everything stays nice and tight no problem. - CW
Link Posted: 8/18/2017 9:11:33 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chasw:
Me too. I have both clamp on and set screw gas blocks secured with blue medium strength threadlocker. My barrels do get hot and the threadlocker does degrade a little bit, but it keeps right on working. I am able to easily remove my GBs without fuss and reinstall the screws without applying more threadlocker. Everything stays nice and tight no problem. - CW
View Quote
Exactly. Blue has and always will work for me.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 7:55:37 PM EST
I haven't really challenged any of my gas blocks, but then I can't see any way TO challenge those blocks.

There's no linear or rotary force applied to the block. None.

A lot of people think about gas blocks as if the GI front sight base was the model everything needs to match. The FSB DOES receive linear force, is subjected to occasional rotary force, and being up there exposed to everything it kinda needs those cross pins to keep it in place.

I've gone on record in the past with my opinion about threadlocker on gas block screws. I feel that it is possible to heat the block enough - through sustained fire, mainly - to break down even "high temperature" threadlocker. This does NOT mean that I suggest that running 5 full magazines as fast as you can shoot will make the screws fall out. There is simply no way to test the current quality of a threadlocker once it's been applied.

I really believe that if you're worried about them, you should stake those screws - actually stake the block into the screws. Problem solved.
Link Posted: 8/26/2017 4:43:22 PM EST
Nothing works just fine.
Link Posted: 8/27/2017 5:04:09 AM EST
Do what makes YOU feel comfortable. There is really no difference in the numbers of issues, or satisfied people with red vs. blue vs. nothing.
Link Posted: 8/27/2017 12:56:03 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bbies1973:
There is really no difference in the numbers of issues, or satisfied people with red vs. blue vs. nothing.
View Quote
Do you have data to back that up, or are you just making assumptions?
Top Top