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Posted: 10/3/2007 2:19:49 AM EST
Ok guys and gals I am an avid AK shooter but I recently shot a freinds AR. I was very very impressed. Now I got to build one for myself but i don't have the knowledge of AR's that I do of Ak's and variants. I would like to know your opinions of what is the best lower and any other parts and components you might suggest that will help me build a rifle with a minimum of 3/4 MOA. and No I WILL NOT BUY ONE THAT SOMEONE ELSE BUILT. I have even had an offer from my FFL for him to build me one but I really like to build my own guns.

Anyway any info you guys and gals can offer would be great


JOHN THE PLUMBER

PS: I promise to post pics when this rifle is complete (I will want to brag a little) lol
Link Posted: 10/3/2007 2:52:51 AM EST
Anything with the Noveske logo on it..
Link Posted: 10/3/2007 4:02:46 AM EST
parts is parts except for the barrel and bolt.

any of the vendors in the links above sell good quality parts.

If your building a "blaster"....
for barrels look at
CMMG
Colt
Bushmaster

for bolts look at
LMT
Colt
Bravo Company (vendor of MP tested bolts)

If your building a "target gun", others who know more about that will chime in
Link Posted: 10/3/2007 4:21:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/3/2007 4:21:53 AM EST by LoneWolfUSMC]
For a Duty/hard use weapon:

Forged Lower: (RRA, Bushmaster, Colt, Noveske, LMT, etc.)
RRA/CMT/Stag LPK (with 2-stage trigger)
Mil-Spec Receiver Extension
"H" Buffer and spring
Your choice of stock (CTR would be mine)

Forged A3/4 upper (CMT/Stag for a good value)
M16 BCG
Noveske barrel
Vortex or Phantom Flash Suppressor
CMT/Stag Charging Handle (unless you are suppressing it, then just buy the PRI Gas Buster)
LaRue Rail System

Your choice of optic in a LaRue SPR mount.

If you do your part, then any high quality barrel in a free-float system should accomplish your accuracy requirement.

If you don't care about cost, or weight, you can get really crazy.
Link Posted: 10/3/2007 4:48:48 PM EST
Don't buy generic "Mil-Spec" No-Name parts.

RRA Lower/RRA Internals/ Colt USGI A-1 Upper
Quality internals should give you better fit and better reliability.
I'd match the lower to the makers' internals...or the best quality trigger system you can afford.

Stock RRA Trigger System to replicate "Retro-AR" actual trigger feel. No problems and 100% reliability so far, which is what I was building in the first place.

FYI: Some of the best match grade triggers on the market are finnicky, may need some re-adjustment, or are prone to losing their 2nd stage every now and then.

I'd recommend a trigger system that meets your budget, needs and expectations: If it's a SHTF work gun, go for reliability over match-grade quality. If you want a match gun and are willing to either pay top $$$ for a great trigger and are willing to work with it to get it the way you want it....there are plenty of good products there. BUT I would NOT consider a light-match system for a "Work Gun" that requires as close to 100% reliability as possible.

Then there's the bolt group...........
Link Posted: 10/9/2007 1:03:01 AM EST
thanks for your input I looked up and over all the parts you mentioned I will probably use quite a few as the reveiws on these parts are acceptional.
Link Posted: 10/9/2007 5:20:37 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/9/2007 5:21:38 AM EST by DevL]
You want the BEST parts and 3/4 MOA accuracy? You want the best reliability too? Ignore what you have read so far if it differes from what is below

Upper

Larue Upper
Larue Rail
Noveske Barrel with pinned gas block (midlength gas system)
Global Tactical Super Duty bolt group with Ion Bond coating prefered or the MSTN equivalent (M16 carrier)
Gas Buster Charging Handle
Larue Scope Mount (SPR, SPR-E, or SPR-S)
Troy BUIS front and rear
Vortex, Phatom, or Blackout Flash Hider
A quality high magnification scope (9X minimum for max power and Leupold or better quality... if you only want the BEST look at US Optics and S&B PMII)

Lower

Any quality forged lower (RRA, LMT, CMT, etc)
or a billet lower (Sun Devil, Magpul, etc) it really does not matter
Geissele 2 stage trigger, DMR version (it will not come misadjusted and is the BEST trigger you can buy and is used by the Army Marksmanship Unit)
MIAD, Egro, or Sierra Precision grip (depending on right/left handedness, preferance and hand size)
Stock with good cheekweld, adjustment, solid lock up (LMT SOPMOD, Magpul UBR, etc)
9mm, MGI RRB, or Enidine buffer
Good mags (teflon USGI, PMAGS, HK mags, etc)


With minimal tools you can assemble all this yourself and have a quality 3/4 MOA capable rifle with all the BEST non custom parts available, minimum recoil, and extremely high reliability.

I highly doubt you want the BEST parts though. You will probably use about half to two thirds what is listed. The above rifle is thousands of dollars.
Link Posted: 10/9/2007 5:24:08 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/9/2007 5:25:43 AM EST by DevL]

Originally Posted By drshame:


FYI: Some of the best match grade triggers on the market are finnicky, may need some re-adjustment, or are prone to losing their 2nd stage every now and then.

BUT I would NOT consider a light-match system for a "Work Gun" that requires as close to 100% reliability as possible.


Which of the "best triggers are prone to this?" It is common with RRA but that is the cheapest, no tthe "best". And I would take a Geissele over a stock trigger any day, even for reliability... its made of better materials.


Originally Posted By CB1:
parts is parts except for the barrel and bolt.

any of the vendors in the links above sell good quality parts.

If your building a "blaster"....
for barrels look at
CMMG
Colt
Bushmaster

for bolts look at
LMT
Colt
Bravo Company (vendor of MP tested bolts)

If your building a "target gun", others who know more about that will chime in


He said 3/4 MOA or better. CMMG, Colt and Bushmaster barrels are not what he should be looking at.
Link Posted: 10/9/2007 5:25:18 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/9/2007 5:25:55 AM EST by DevL]
Double Tap
Link Posted: 10/9/2007 6:01:39 AM EST
i guess the rule of thumb would be to look for the parts w/ the biggest price tag...
Link Posted: 10/9/2007 6:25:55 AM EST
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