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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 12/20/2003 2:47:26 PM EDT
My patriot 5.56mm pistol has the factory 7.5" barrel with flash hider, factory recoil system (short tube with long narrow spring, recoil buffer that slips inside the bolt carrier).

The patriot works in one of three modes
1. fires normally, once or twice
2. fails to enter battery (can put into battery with my finger and fire)
3. stovepipes the spent round and fails to strip the next round from the magazine

The problem occurs consistently across mags (20rd USGI, 30rd USGI, 9rd Colt) and ammo (LC97 55 gr, LC01 62 gr, Hirtenberger 96 55 gr, Rem-USA 223)

My theory is the gas systems needs to be bumped up a notch because it seems like a short recoil stroke.

Anyone theories or suggestion are appreciated.

... watchman
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 5:25:41 PM EDT
It might be that the chamber is rough and causing the spent case to bind too much to the chamber walls on ejection, hence short stroking. Unless you can find someone here how has the pistol, and has resolved the problem, you may have to find a local smith. Sorry that I can’t be more help, it's just that on AR type pistols, I need them in hand to fire and resolve the multitude of problems that can occur.
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 6:05:59 PM EDT
I did a little research on one of these for a friend of mine that just aquired one. This is Rocky Mountain Arms website. [url]http://www.bearcoat.com/[/url] They answered some questions for me by email at bearcoat@bearcoat.com
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 6:22:29 PM EDT
Does the bolt lock open on the last round out of the magazine? If the bolt locks open leave the gas port size alone, the problem is somewhere else. Shorter barrels, esp in the 6"-8" range require very stiff extractors.
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 10:23:57 PM EDT
J3_ asked if I held the magazine while firing. Good thought, and I experienced this with a 9mm bushmaster conversion. So, I fired the Patriot with the mag clear of my hand and the bench. Dano523 suggests the chamber could be rough. Is there a simple method to polish it? I have every type of sandpaper from 110 to 1500, perhaps wrap a dowel with it and turn??? Tweak asked if the bolt hold open was working, and it is not. The bolt does not seem to make it back far enough. Sometimes it misses the next round entirely and leaves it on the magazine or dents it about midway. I thought about shortening the recoil spring but convinced myself that this would worsen problem 2. - failure to enter battery. Thanks innocent_bystander - I will tried the bearcoat email. Looks like www.rockymountainarms.com is gone. ... watchman
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 11:43:57 PM EDT
Don't mess with the recoil spring just yet. Are the screws in your carrier key tight? Does the gas block line up the gas port? Does the bolt catch function properly
Link Posted: 12/21/2003 6:22:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/21/2003 8:26:33 AM EDT by j3_]
A couple more things you could check. I had a couple of triggers that were to high because of where the pivot hole was drilled. If you held the trigger hard after firing the carrier would bind on the hammer because it could not rotate back to let the carrier past. If it is using SP1 style parts I would check to make sure the hammer was not catching the collar of the firing pin sometimes slowing the return.
Link Posted: 12/21/2003 8:03:49 AM EDT
Thanks guys - its raining here and now I will have something fun to work on this afternoon! ... watchman
Link Posted: 12/21/2003 8:34:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/21/2003 8:36:21 AM EDT by Dano523]
Since everyone here has hit on the strong points of the pistol, I will recap how I might attack the problem. 1.Polish out the chamber. This is best do with a 30 Cal cotton cleaning mop, a few rods and a Drill. Use something like JB bore paste and coat the mop with it. Then spin the wad in the chamber in an in/out motion. This should take no more than 30 seconds to get the chamber smooth as a baby’s ass. Due to the size of the mop, it will prevent you from going too deep and polish into the throat of the barrel. Once done, make sure to clean out the polishing paste/compound with CLP as you would normally clean the barrel. Do not use sandpaper, you will just groove the chamber and make it worse. 2.Check the gas block to make sure that the barrel/gas port is aligned, and the block is not loose. Also, pull the block and check the alignment of the gas tube opening with the block port. I have seen tube openings that are blocked more than half way, due to misalignment. If you find this to be the case, just use a drill bit up the hole and open up the gas tube hole to match the gas blocks porthole. 3.Check the carrier key to make sure it tight. If the key allen head screws are loose, then pull the key, and use Blue loctite between the key/carrier to form a thing gasket. If you have time, you can lap the key/carrier together, but the loctite will work just as well. Then on the key, make sure that there are not burs on the four bearing corners of the key (where the key slides down the upper slot just below the charging handle). 4.On the disconnector, check it just behind the hook. If you have a white line/indent mark where the hammer hook is making contact, then you will need to remove .040 off the hammer hook to allow the hammer to be lowered father down when the carrier glides over. Do not touch the sears, just the tail of the hammer where the auto sear tab would be located. 5.When you cock and ride the hammer forward, does the hammer bind on the firing pin? If you can feel the carrier slightly bind up about half way forward, then you will need to round the top edge of the hammer’s firing pin contact area to allow it to glide past the collar of the firing pin. 6.Last it to make sure that the upper bearing areas are lightly lubed with CLP. This will allow the rifle to run as it fouls up. Bottom line is if the rifle fires for a few rounds clean, then starts to jam as it fouls, my best guess would be that the chamber could use a good polishing, then do a check list of the rest of the rifle to locate any other problems that may be impeding the carrier travel (This binding may just be a secondary problem that only shows it’s self once the chamber fouls and the rounds become partial foul bound to the chamber walls and slows the carrier on the way back. Hope this helps (or at least gives you something to do until it stops raining).
Link Posted: 12/21/2003 11:36:31 AM EDT
I'm workind on Dano's suggestion. Anyone know how to remove the gas block? The patriot gas block is covered by the handguard, which is attached to the upper receiver (free floating). 2.Check the gas block to make sure that the barrel/gas port is aligned, and the block is not loose. Also, pull the block and check the alignment of the gas tube opening with the block port. I have seen tube openings that are blocked more than half way, due to misalignment. If you find this to be the case, just use a drill bit up the hole and open up the gas tube hole to match the gas blocks porthole. Thanks! ... watchman
Link Posted: 12/21/2003 3:53:58 PM EDT
If the float tube on your pistol is like the others, it should be a two piece tube. The front inner part is the barrel nut, and then a float tube that screws onto the barrel nut. If this is the case (must be since the gas tube is under the tube), put the upper in a upper vice block-vised, and use a band tool to spin the float tube off the barrel nut.
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