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Posted: 9/13/2008 11:20:56 AM EDT
[#1]
Testors paint
 But lately Ive been thinking of removing it... |
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Posted: 9/13/2008 12:03:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Check Here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=282&t=159675 |
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Posted: 9/13/2008 12:34:17 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 9/13/2008 4:56:52 PM EDT
[#4]
All done with Testor's Model Enamel. Spent no more than 5 minutes on each lower...
    
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Posted: 9/14/2008 7:46:30 AM EDT
[#5]
Excellent folks! Testors model enamel paint it is!
I'm guessing I can pick this up at Michael's or a hobby store? |
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Posted: 9/14/2008 9:02:57 AM EDT
[#6]
yep
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Posted: 9/14/2008 11:13:06 AM EDT
[#7]
Some people use crayon. Sounds stupid, I know. But it actually works. It lasts for a while and when you get tired of it, you just pick it out with a toothpick
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Posted: 9/14/2008 12:08:29 PM EDT
[#8]
Another vote for TESTORS model car paint. More permanent than any crayon or china marker and easily removed with a little mineral spirits when you get sick of it.
Glob it on. Let dry. Wipe off the excess. |
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Posted: 9/14/2008 5:12:10 PM EDT
[#9]
couldn't you use a hyperdermic needle to fill it in w/ the paint? could pick up diabetic needles at walgreens. |
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Posted: 9/14/2008 6:01:40 PM EDT
[#10]
http://www.saintsworth.com/upload/lower1.jpg
http://www.saintsworth.com/upload/lower2.jpg http://www.saintsworth.com/upload/lower3.jpg .17 cent crayons from Wal-Mart and this is what came out. I'm very pleased! Was going to do Testor's paint but that required to much energy, money, and effort for something that can easily be done with a crayon and look just as good. |
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Posted: 9/14/2008 8:08:10 PM EDT
[#11]
LOL! Yeah, I tried the crayon method. If I wasn't grinding the crayon in to the rollmarks, I was using a hair dryer to make the task easier. It sucked! The Testor's method is SO easy it is funny. a) Thin the paint enough that it flows quickly. b) Grab a drop of paint with your favorite toothpick, Q-tip shaft, etc. c) Just barely touch the drop to the rollmark, and the paint fills it in like water down a gutter. |
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Posted: 9/14/2008 8:16:34 PM EDT
[#12]
The trick is to use the CLP-patch trick to get the excess. You will inevitably have some run-out paint, but don't mess with it. Fill 'em up and let it go, for about 10 minutes, maybe more depending on how much thinner you used in the paint.
Once it's semi-dry, get a cotton cleaning patch and just lightly dampen it with some CLP. I use Break-free. Lightly wipe the whole thing with the CLP patch, and it will slowly work off the excess. It will take some practice, but it works, trust me. After that, let it sit for a while, then buff down the excess CLP on your receiver with a paper towel or similar disposable cloth. Here's ones I did with that method.   
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Posted: 9/14/2008 8:29:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Yeah I'll see how long the crayon lasts - if it seems to hold up decently well then I'll stick with it. Florida heat might be a problem for the wax! |
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Posted: 9/15/2008 5:55:42 AM EDT
[#14]
This is one of those,,, Why didn't I think of that Threads. So simple after you have the answer. i have lots of painting to do...........
Thanx, SO-13 |
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Posted: 9/15/2008 11:06:54 AM EDT
[#15]
Just painted my DPMS lower today with the Testors paint.
It doesn't look too bad considering I was all jacked up on coffee this morning while I was doing ithe |
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Posted: 9/15/2008 3:50:18 PM EDT
[#16]
You might be okay. I have seen some crayon jobs last quite a while. |
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Posted: 9/15/2008 6:35:26 PM EDT
[#17]
From my understanding Crayon's have a melting point of ~165F. With a protective layer of CLP on the top I doubt I'll have an issue. |
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Posted: 9/16/2008 9:42:22 AM EDT
[#18]
I am going to do my lower right now but was wondering if any one has painted the windage and elevation marks on their sights. I know most of you are running optics but I have A2 type sights....
Mike |
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Posted: 9/16/2008 10:34:03 AM EDT
[#19]
My Tactical Crayola Visual Enhancement has lasted a LONG time and still looks like new.
I prepped the area with alcohol then acetone to thuroughly degrease it. Then I used a long bic lighter on the inside of the frame to heat the metal and melted it in the rollmarks. Finally, I wiped the excess off and used a q-tip to detail clean any spots that needed it. A final wipe with a CLP patch and it looked like a factory job. Too bad my camrea can't focus...  i53.photobucket.com/albums/g45/jrm33/Gun%20Stuff/Firearms/100_4094.jpg |
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Posted: 9/16/2008 2:38:50 PM EDT
[#20]
Ditto, used Testor's Model Enamel. Have done a few so far, but this Spikes is my favorite. White and Red for the selector and Tan for the rest.
I'm getting ready to do my girls in Pink. I might post that one when it's done.   |
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Posted: 9/16/2008 6:08:11 PM EDT
[#21]
Well I got it all done before dinner. I think not bad for my first attempt. I did the sights too. The camera didnt show the red too well after I shrunk it, but you guys didnt need 3,000 pixel pics that bad did you?
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/totlich/painted-1.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/totlich/painted2.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/totlich/painted3.jpg |
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Posted: 9/16/2008 9:40:02 PM EDT
[#22]
I think I am hooked. Now I can't wait to get home again and try this out on my LRB lower. I really like their roll marking and it should look awesome when complete.
To bad my SR isn't like the new E3's as they have beautiful engraved lowers, nope not rolled or stamped. I'm kind of stuck as my SR is laser etched, .
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Posted: 9/17/2008 7:53:50 AM EDT
[#23]
I use Testors enamal paint as well and a hypodermic needle (gotta love working in healthcare). I also use a strong magnifying glass to see when the grooves are full of paint. The results are normally outstanding, but sometimes I get a bit tired and my hand shakes. For those times, thinner soaked rag is good.
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Posted: 9/17/2008 9:47:54 AM EDT
[#24]
just did my lower with a couple pf crayons hope it hold up, nice thing is that it only took 10min
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Posted: 9/18/2008 7:19:17 AM EDT
[#25]
so for the crayon method, do u just rub it on to cram the wax into the engraved place to be colored and then wipe off the excess? or do u have to heat it as that guy with the dpms did?
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Posted: 9/18/2008 7:25:00 AM EDT
[#26]
either or you can heat the lower with a lighter, melt the crayons with a lighter and drop it on the roll mark. I just took the crayon and rubbed it over the roll marks and wiped away the excess with a cotton patch with a little CLP on it.
Top of page 2 WOOT!! |
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Posted: 9/18/2008 11:21:39 AM EDT
[#27]
Noob question and second post what is CLP?
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Posted: 9/18/2008 11:27:16 AM EDT
[#28]
how the hell did u do this in 5 minutes?? did u just put way too much paint on, let it dry and then scrape off the excess carefully? |
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Posted: 9/18/2008 11:39:00 AM EDT
[#29]
clp is a cleaning agent for guns that also acts as a lubricant/rust inhibitor the acronym is "bore Cleaning solvent Lubricant rust Preventative" the most popular brand is "BreakFree" CLP |
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Posted: 9/18/2008 6:15:05 PM EDT
[#30]
Thanks for the reply... |
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Posted: 9/18/2008 9:07:19 PM EDT
[#31]
This is the lower from my first build. I got it back from the engraver today and immediately set out to fill in the roll markings. I think it came out OK!
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m286/Paul_S_2006/IMG_1919.jpg PS3 |
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Posted: 9/19/2008 9:02:44 AM EDT
[#32]
You guys are all inspiring me. I have two Rock River stripped lowers and a DPMS stripped lower I'm working on right now.
I think I may have to name the DPMS rifle "the pink panther" and fill in the panther with pink. One of the Rock Rivers has OD furniture...I think that will all get filled in with OD green. Not sure what to do with the other Rock River. I'll figure it out. I have a bunch of fishing lure paint - much more durable than Testors...I'm going to have to try it out 
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Posted: 9/22/2008 12:51:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Scrape? Never. Here is the secret to speedy engraving filling using Testor's... a) The paint needs to flow freely. I have found that white is the only Testor's paint that is pretty runny. Anything with color in it will need to be thinned for best application. Sooooo, thin your paint. b) I apply the paint with these nifty little "microbrushes". Don't let the name fool you---I am not brushing the paint at all. These microbrushes have tiny little sponges on the tip. The sponges will hold a BIG drop of paint. One big drop of paint will fill in maybe a full inch of rollmark or more. c) Since the paint is thinned and very runny, you just TOUCH the tip of the microbrush (some people use toothpicks, but it takes longer) to the rollmark. Right when the drop touches the surface, the thinned paint runs down the rollmark like water running down a gutter. It literally fills in itself! No brushing, no dabbing, no syringe squirting, and definitely no "cramming" of crayons. Just touch the paint drop to the rollmark. That's it! d) Clean-up is easy, since the thinned paint runs down the rollmarks and goes nowhere else. The only clean-up I ever have is the little spot where I touched the tip of the microbrush to the receiver surface. I just let it air dry for a minute and lightly wipe the receiver with a shotgun patch moistened (lightly) with CLP. All I ever use... 
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Posted: 9/22/2008 1:48:09 PM EDT
[#34]
cool thanks |
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Posted: 9/23/2008 2:18:02 PM EDT
[#35]
Finally picked up som Testors enamel so I could take a stab at this. Since the DoubleStar logo is a dragon, I thought I'd go with green for it & the manufacturers info. (Yes, the SN has been p'shopped ... ) I used the thinned paint approach described earlier, but used a toothpick instead of a micro brush (couldn't find those). Took my time, but, even with do-overs, it only took about a half hour (... used the waiting time to clean the upper :) ).
http://www.skhowell.com/images/roll-marks-1-pshopped.jpg http://www.skhowell.com/images/roll-marks-2.jpg Nick |
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Posted: 9/20/2009 7:56:57 PM EDT
[#36]
This is great have to try it on my XD40 and my spikes lower when it comes in.
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