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11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 9/1/2004 10:14:45 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/1/2004 10:15:42 AM EST by der_Buschmeistermann]
I watched our department's armorer put a new barrel on for me the other day. He lubed the threads on the upper with Militec and torqued the barrel nut on. Now I hear that grease is recommended. Does anyone see a problem?
Link Posted: 9/1/2004 10:23:02 AM EST
No problem now - but down the road should those parts need to be removed there might be an issue.
Link Posted: 9/1/2004 10:37:48 AM EST
So basically if I want to remove the barrel nut in the future, I'll have to soak it in Kroil for a couple days in order for it to break free?
Link Posted: 9/1/2004 11:13:46 AM EST

Originally Posted By der_Buschmeistermann:
So basically if I want to remove the barrel nut in the future, I'll have to soak it in Kroil for a couple days in order for it to break free?


Depends on how well/how much the MiliTech ends up staying in place.
Link Posted: 9/1/2004 2:58:34 PM EST

Originally Posted By Forest:
Depends on how well/how much the MiliTech ends up staying in place.



Woud you recommend disassembling the barrel and applying grease? Everything lined up real well and I'd hate to screw that up . How about hitting the area every cleaning with WD-40 or something else?
Link Posted: 9/1/2004 3:17:48 PM EST
WD-40 never unless you disgust the weapon, and for barrel nut installation you should use a good semi solid grease.

We use Brownells action lube and it is synthetic so it does not depreciate with excessive heat and has been proven to hold up torque stress under load.

White lithium grease will do in a pinch but does not last long, and any good molly lube with suffice for expedient lubricants.
Link Posted: 9/1/2004 9:50:28 PM EST
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 3:15:54 AM EST
i really like Permatex copper anti-sieze. but another good choice is the moly cam lube that comes with new cam shafts. when fastening dissimilair metels (steel barrel nut, aluminum reciever) they can oxidize and sieze. use a non-liquid anti sieze compound
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 3:42:01 AM EST
I really appreciate all the application options that everyone is providing but what I'd LIKE to hear is if it is necessary to disassmble and use lube/grease/moly/or whatever right now. How much trouble will I possibly encounter if I leave it the way it is and need to take it apart down the road? (I guess I could send the upper to BM for them to take care of it if I need to replace the barrel in the future.)
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:52:42 AM EST
If you are planning on removing the barerl (say to install a FF tube) then yes - disassemble it and do it right (BTW you can get Moly Grease at any Auto Parts store - $5 will buy you a lifetime supply - just get it WITHOUT graphite).

If you're just doing a 'what if.....' I'd leave it alone.

Tweak in the troublshooting forums would be an excellent person to ask.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 6:42:48 AM EST
Thanks, Forest.
I'm in the "what if..." category.
I've been told that I'm anal retentive.
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 4:33:28 AM EST

Originally Posted By der_Buschmeistermann:
Thanks, Forest.
I'm in the "what if..." category.
I've been told that I'm anal retentive.



Your concern is well documented and understood, if you desire to have it done and want to ship it up to me I will do the job in the shop and send it back to include a head space check and function fire.

If you leave it as is it runs a strong chance of having the barrel nut seize to the upper receiver threads down the road and that is bad news for the upper since it will be a major task for anyone to perform a barrel swap on it.

Link Posted: 9/4/2004 4:58:57 AM EST
I've successfully used automotive high-temperature wheel and bearing grease. After thousands of rounds, it hasn't flowed, and the barrel nut comes off relatively easily.
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 5:06:45 AM EST
MolyLube with no graphite or Anti-Sieze.. both available at any auto parts store. As stated by others, one purchase will last a lifetime.

Bravo5-2
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 7:00:18 AM EST

Originally Posted By Forest:
- just get it WITHOUT graphite).




Why the problem with graphite???

Sarge
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 8:55:58 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 4:26:30 PM EST

Originally Posted By der_Buschmeistermann:
I really appreciate all the application options that everyone is providing but what I'd LIKE to hear is if it is necessary to disassmble and use lube/grease/moly/or whatever right now. How much trouble will I possibly encounter if I leave it the way it is and need to take it apart down the road? (I guess I could send the upper to BM for them to take care of it if I need to replace the barrel in the future.)



It's not a problem. I use tetra gun grease because it's what I have and after firing about 3k rounds, rebarreled to a shorter version, and it was new looking like the day I put in on. It's not a harsh environment so to speak for all the oil to get burned up IMHO.

I'd leave it alone.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 3:49:40 AM EST
Is Anti-Sieze with Nickel recommended/ok to use?

I also have Redline CV-2 grease (that synthetic stuff used for wheel bearings and suspension bushings), Mobil Heavy-Duty industrial grease, and Militec grease.

I'm not sure why grease is specified for the barrel nut. Is it to ease installation of the nut, prevent the threads from being destroyed, or just to allow easy removal of the nut in the future (prevents galling)?

If it is the last item - then nickel anti-sieze will work fine (just a thin layer?). If its to aid in installation, then the grease or a thick oil is probably the best thing to use.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 4:06:36 AM EST
Originally Posted By der_Buschmeistermann:
I really appreciate all the application options that everyone is providing but what I'd LIKE to hear is if it is necessary to disassmble and use lube/grease/moly/or whatever right now.quote]

IMO, YES!

Hotgun
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 5:24:24 AM EST

Originally Posted By Troy:
Graphite will cause a galvanic reaction between the steel and aluminum. That's bad, m'kay?

-Troy





That's bad, m'kay?
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