Okay,

After reading many many posts about cleaning supplies, lubes, cleaners, I've found that many people like Hoppe's solvent for cleaner, Clp(fp-10) for lube/cleaner, and for grease (lube) applications TW-25b.

Okay, what goes where.  Of course Hoppe's for cleaning, what about de-coppering, anyone have any suggestions with a chrome bore (ammonia products should be avoided) Is the kleenbore solvent 10 good for that, I heard that was ammonia free, any feedback.

Second, where do you use clp and where TW-25b.  I hear some use the 25b in the barrel, well, EVERYWHERE.  Does it protect as well.  I guess I'm kind of confused where these different products overlap.  One thread is nothing but FP-10, the next, all they talk about is tw-25b.  

Any guidance would be very appreciated as I get ready for ANOTHER run for cleaning supplies.

Gundraw

Sounds complicated... You will get as many different answers as there are posters in your thread.

Personally, I just switched from Break-free to FP-10.  In either case that is [u]all[/u] I use to clean and lube.  After 2000 rounds or so I will use a copper solvent (shooter's choice).

I've seen a lot of posts mentioning using a lot of lube on the bolt and carrier, but I don't.  I tend to run them very lightly lubed and have never had a problem even when burning through 1000 rounds at one sitting.  In most cases I have seen, more lube just collects more crap.  I have a friend that runs his M16 dry, but I won't go that far.

It all works great.  Just mainly personal favorites for each person based on what is more important to each person.

One thing I will tell you... DO NOT use Oven-Off to clean anything.  I was lazy, and a smart-ass, and figured I would try Oven-Off to clean carbon from the carrier interior.  Bad move.  The Oven-Off destroyed the finish on the carrier.  That was one ugly looking carrier after the Oven-Off treatment.  Damn carbon was still on it too [banghead].  I ordered a replacement from Bushmaster.  Lesson learned for me.

Like the others said,it depends on what you use and like.
Break Free clp and Firepower FP-10 clp are excellent products.The FP-10 seems to lube better in my opinion but Break Free is good stuff.
I use the TW-25B inside and out on my AR15 and Beretta.Its an extreme lubricant/protectant and its probably over kill but I like it for my expensive aluminum framed/receivered toys that has steel running on them.
I use the FP-10 clp on my Mauser's,Enfields,MN's,cetme,sks's etc. due to the sheer number of them I have to maintain and have had no complaints.Its much easier to use and more affordable than the TW-25B.
For a bore cleaner I prefer Bore Tech,Hoppe's or Mil-comm MC-25 since I have had excellent results from them in the past.
Thats the products I like so thats what I use.
Get some solvents and lubricants and try them for yourself to see what you like.Thats what counts in the long run,what performs to a level that makes you happy.
Raymond

Thanks everyone,

I guess one thing that threw me off is the question, how could a cleaner, be that good as a lubricant and protectant.  I figured maybe that would be good for the bore, chamber and fronts of bolts, and then the real lubricant for internals, metal to metal "greased" applications.  But from what it sounds, both work fine.  Yes, TW25B IS very expensive, but how long does say one of those syringe tubes last??  I guess I figured a little would go a long way given the advantages of light lubrication on firearms.

I think I'll buy a bottle of both fp-10 and tw25, try them both, or together, (that is okay right) and keep my hoppes and look for some copper solvent when the time comes.  


Thanks

i probably have more than 1/2 dozen lubes laying around. FP-10 (my favorite by far) CLP, hoppes #9 oil, Outers oil, kleen bore #3, LSA (bought a quart of it for $10 yesterday!) super lube dry lube, tetre gun grease and oil.

for the ar-15 i clean with fp-10 both the action and the bore. i then spray down the inside of the upper and bolt and carrier several times with super lube dry lube. then i lightly oil the locking lugs on the bolt, the carrier cam pin, and the carrier rails with CLP (becaise i have a small amount of it and am trying to use it up) the dry lube provides a shield between the metal surfaces and carbon/fouling. this keeps the inside of the upper from collecting too much goo even shooting russian stuff. it makes for easy clean up too.

 do you guys really notice that big a difference between breakfree and firepower clp?

TW-25B should not be mixed with any other oils or solvents.Thats why the directions recommend removing existing oils and solvent residues before application.So dont mix it with other oils.Use it by itself or if you want a oil use the MC-2500 oil from Mil-comm as they are compatible.
The clp or solvents etc. will hurt the effectiveness of the TW-25B so Im told.
TW-25B does go a long way and that makes up for the cost,but I have 50+ C&R firearms to maintain other than my AR,pistols and modern hunting rifles etc. so it could get expensive trying to use it on all of my collection.
So I use it on the firearms that I feel needs maximum performance from a lube and protectant like my AR15.

In my opinion and experience the FP-10 clp does lubricate better and will not catch and hold dust and fouling as bad as Break Free.

But like I said Break Free does an excellent job and I would and still do use it.
Raymond

I just bought some Hoppe's 9 Semi Auto solvent. It is suppose to remove lead and copper.

Okay,

Being how I'm not planning on putting as many rounds through this ar as a lot of you do.  Medium duty, maybe 500rnds a month or so.  My best choice would probably get a bottle of FP-10 for everything.  

I guess I always thought it was good to put a little higher viscosity oil on the bolt and carrier ect.  So it would "stay put" a little more.  But evidentally CLP will protect as well, AND not collect all the junk that grease will.

I also have a bottle of Hoppe's high vis. oil.  Would that be a good final coat for the bolt and that area??  What do you all think.

I think I"ve decided that TW is maybe a little more than I need in my situation.  If FP-10 is protecting at a extreme level already (as i've been told), then I think for me that's the best choice.

Thanks,
Gundraw

GunDraw, I personally hate Hoppes High Viscosity Oil. It does a horrable job at keeping rust/corrosion away, and i've found that the stuff actually evaporates in a fairly short period of time. I would go with either FP-10 or Breakfree.