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Posted: 2/9/2006 2:32:11 PM EDT
[#1]
You can buy moly grease at any local auto parts store, and probably even Wal-Mart.
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Posted: 2/9/2006 2:34:35 PM EDT
[#2]
Is Moly grease what you recommend? |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 2:46:02 PM EDT
[#3]
?
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Posted: 2/9/2006 2:47:04 PM EDT
[#4]
Yeah its basically what everyone uses. White Lithium Moly Grease is a high temp resistance lubricant.
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Posted: 2/9/2006 2:49:04 PM EDT
[#5]
no graphite, that's pretty much the only rule with greases and aluminum
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Posted: 2/9/2006 2:51:01 PM EDT
[#6]
I have used Tetra Gun Grease with no problems.
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Posted: 2/9/2006 3:06:55 PM EDT
[#7]
what's the difference between regular moly grease and white lithium moly grease? |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 3:17:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Really!!! The auto stuff is the same thing (or good enough) to the sutff used in ARs??? Of f to the Auto Store!!!! |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:03:58 PM EDT
[#9]
Yep. Molybdenum disulfide grease. |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:07:04 PM EDT
[#10]
Beware...alot of automotive moly has graphite in it.
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:09:24 PM EDT
[#11]
I used antisieze. Though, now that I think about it, I probably should go check to make sure the can doesn't have the word "graphite" anywhere on it.
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:12:58 PM EDT
[#12]
It'll be okay. We were taught to use anti-seize in armorer's class. I'm no expert, but I feel that the whole galvanic corrosion aspect when using lubes containing graphite when building AR-15 rifles is overblown. For galvanic corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present: Electrochemically dissimilar metals must be present; These metals must be in electrical contact; and The metals must be exposed to an electrolyte. |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:17:58 PM EDT
[#13]
al and graphite dissimilar metals electrolyte, do u sweat? electrica contact, verry easy to pick up a charge. all 3 can be present. |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:18:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Thanks, M4Madness. I'm at work startin' to worry about my investment sitting at home corroding away, heh.
FYI: The anti-sieze used is the automotive stuff in a giant bottle with a brush. Same stuff you can get at Wally World or Vato zone. |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:27:01 PM EDT
[#15]
I used antiseize on my expensive M16, and I'm not sweating it at all. I don't know if it contained graphite or not, but like I said, Sully taught us to use it. All 24 rifles in our class had it put on the barrel nuts. |
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Posted: 2/9/2006 5:54:39 PM EDT
[#16]
bushmaster sells a small can
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Posted: 2/10/2006 5:32:21 AM EDT
[#17]
I've used ordinary automotive bearing grease for several builds now. NO signs of corrosion, etc.
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Posted: 2/10/2006 7:40:20 AM EDT
[#18]
Me too it works great and makes barrel removal a snap. |
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Posted: 2/10/2006 1:25:01 PM EDT
[#19]
I put "never- seize " on mine
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Posted: 2/10/2006 1:29:03 PM EDT
[#20]
It's what the -23&P calls for. Moly grease WITHOUT graphite. |
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Posted: 2/10/2006 4:52:19 PM EDT
[#21]
THIS is the stuff to use... if it says "for disc brakes" it will probably have moly disulfide in it. If not wheel bearing grease, use ordinary grease as you would put in a grease gun. Do not use NeverSeize (that silver goop) or similar copper bearing anti-seize materials. They are gritty, and the metal particals dig into the softer aluminum threads. This stuff is meant for steel on steel, nuts & bolts, etc. Just use grease. You want to be able to smoothly tighten the nut for gas tube alignment. |
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Posted: 2/11/2006 8:00:39 PM EDT
[#22]
I just applied white lithium grease. I wasn't sure if I should get that or regular Moly grease. I just want to verify and make sure that White Lithium is okay. The container did not mention any graphite on it. It is okay or should I just have used regular Moly grease?
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Posted: 2/11/2006 8:02:41 PM EDT
[#23]
The barrel and upper isn't the expensive part of a M16 |
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Posted: 2/11/2006 9:32:12 PM EDT
[#24]
.
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Posted: 2/12/2006 5:50:34 AM EDT
[#25]
Mobil-1
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Posted: 2/12/2006 6:54:05 AM EDT
[#26]
As long as it doesn't include graphite, automotive moly grease should work fine. It's not what the tech manual calls for, but it should be fine for civilian use. The tech manual calls for a particular grade of molybdenum disulfide grease that has more moly and less grease, making it better able to resist high temperatures and (more important) high torque situations under high temps.
Graphite is NOT a metal-it's a form of carbon. Graphite is a problem because it tends to absorb moisture and form an electrolyte, and because it's abrasive. Using graphite lubricants can wear on the anodized coating and expose unprotected aluminum to the elements. The risk of galvanic corrosion comes from the dissimilar metals aluminum (the upper receiver) and steel (the barrel and extension). Graphite, as I said, can soak up atmospheric moisture and hold it against anything it's applied to-which would not only provide the electrolyte for the corrosive action, but would HOLD IT IN PLACE to make the corrosion more concentrated and thus more damaging. |
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Posted: 2/12/2006 8:36:03 AM EDT
[#27]
Go to the counter (Autozone) and ask for the small packet of grease you get for a brake job.
Those little packs of grease are moly-grease for only $0.99 or less, works great |
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Posted: 2/12/2006 9:09:16 AM EDT
[#28]
I bet that would be convenient, but you can get a whole pound for $4.00. I was looking in some industrial catalogs to find the moly grease, but their prices were $25+ and didn't have small quantities. Thsi is perfect. |
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Posted: 2/12/2006 9:24:13 AM EDT
[#29]
I use anti-sieze. Works great, a bit messy, but works. A little goes a loooong way.
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Posted: 2/12/2006 9:35:43 AM EDT
[#30]
I use Sentry Solutions Hi-Slip Grease which comes in a plastic syringe and is moly disulfide without graphite.
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Posted: 2/12/2006 2:25:30 PM EDT
[#31]
So white lithium is okay right?
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Posted: 2/12/2006 3:08:21 PM EDT
[#32]
In The Bushmaster Video the guy uses regular motor oil. 30W or 40W IIRC.
Seydou |
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Posted: 2/12/2006 8:03:49 PM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 2/14/2006 8:24:53 AM EDT
[#34]
The "white lithium" grease I have isn't moly and I don't think it's high-temp. I use it in bicycle bearings and on door hinges and latches. The grease in my grease gun says "high temp" and OK for bearings, but not disc brakes. The tub of red grease I have is OK for disc brakes too, but it's not moly. Wal-Mart had some Moly grease in the auto section too. It was a dark black color from the moly so the "white lithium moly grease" puzzles me. All of the auto grease I have says "lithium" on it, but only the one kind is called "white lithium".
Not knowing the purpose of the grease and why the -23&P specifies moly I'm just going to use the red stuff when I reassemble mine since it's the highest-temp grease I have. I'd be leery of using the white stuff because of the temps the barrel nut can get to. I've heard that the moly coating on bullets attracts water in the bore so I wouldn't think it would be a good thing to have in the grease? I know moly has lubricating properties, but the barrel nut isn't moving. Maybe the -23&P writers said "moly grease" so when the armorer went to the motor pool to get it he got the high-temp wheel grease instead of the lower-temp chassis grease or hinge grease? |
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Posted: 2/14/2006 8:29:52 AM EDT
[#35]
Yeah it's not like the USMC and the SEALs haven't been using M16s around water for the last 40 years... 
Why would the armorer go to teh motor pool when he has the proper lubicants/tools/ and such delivered to his door. Instead trying to come up with silly/stupid excuses as to WHY. WHY not just learn from the experience 40+ years of the Military rebuilding and repairing these things, instead of trying something new and untested? |
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Posted: 2/14/2006 8:58:09 AM EDT
[#36]
Half the people on here say that you have to do it exactly as the manual says, and half say that there are other ways to accomplish the same thing. I'd like to know why (or if) the moly serves some function in the non-moving barrel nut joint or if the moly grease is just one of many acceptable anti-sieze compounds. |
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