Was wonder what people had tried teh spray on lubes that leave a dry film lube and what their experiences have been.  I have laways used CLP and had good reluts but it always runs and pools after I put my weapons up.  It spreads itself across the metal where I could not reach as it seeps but I dont like the excess oil I have to wipe up the next day.  If I dont sop up the excess both after I apply AND after it runn/pools it atracts crud.  Will a spray on dry lube slove this issue?  Is it reliable?  What products have you used and what happened with each one?

1st your using to much CLP.

2nd "dry lube" I have had great results with ezzox.

milcom tw25b  and tetra grease applied per milcoms "dry" enviorment  work well as well, but i would not rank these as a dry lube per say.

First try less CLP..then finish with a overall blast with the compressor, wipe and done...

I don't have a compressor but papertowels work great for drying after applying CLP. Just be sure to fold over to a dry side after each pass so it absorbs as much as possible.

+1

on the Eezox.  Best stuff out there.

I hate to over-tout something, but Eezox is great as a cleaner, lube, and metal protector. DO an internet search on it and see how it did on salt spray test. I am using it on my AR's and handguns and have a very easy cleanup, no jams, and the finish stays like new.

I've tried the Dupont teflon in the blue bottles at Lowe's. It comes in a bottle and aerosol can. It's touted as a dry lube and leaves a dry waxy surface. It goes on as a milky substance then eveporates the carrier leaving a coat of teflon, parafine and moly. Once dry it stays exactly where you put it and doesn't attract or hold dust or fouling. It worked very well the only time I used it for a 260 rnd test. I've since been using CLP and also hate the mess. I sop mine down and have to dry things up a day or two later after the cleaner solvent has evaporated. I don't trust CLP for a light coat lubricant since it dries up fairly quickly.

Have run TW25B in EP application at level 1, followed by swabbing to dry to the touch.

1,000+ rounds later the M4 was still running.

if it's consistently below freezing, plain old Graphite works.

Dry is a problem.

In conventional language, it eliminates the possibility of cushioning pressures that can result in Galling.

S-28

Don't use "plain old Graphite" in your AR, it's corrosive to aluminum.  If you know chemistry look at the period chart and you will see why.

I do use graphite on non-aluminum guns like my M11 with rimfire conversion kit.

I use a lot of LPS dry lube on firearms, especially in my dedicated rimfire upper for my M16, keeps the fouling attraction down.  I've been using it more and more on many of my guns, learned it from fellow MG owners.

I haven't tried it but Sentry Solutions Tuff Glide says their stuff is good for preservation and lubrication.  It leaves a bonded crystaline coat.  I use it on high carbon steel knives. It doesn't wash off, get thick, evaporate, or attract fouling.