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4/22/2019 5:32:20 PM
Posted: 4/18/2007 9:09:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/18/2007 9:09:44 AM EDT by ABNAK]
Looking for something I can spray into my upper to speed up the cleaning process. Is it brake cleaner that is used?



Also, BreakFree foaming bore solvent---is it ammonia free? For that matter, what bore cleaners are ammonia free so they won't interact with the chrome lining of the barrel?
Link Posted: 4/18/2007 9:52:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/21/2007 6:46:39 AM EDT by QUIB]
I've used a mixture of Hoppes #9 and mineral spirits to flush out my upper and lower receivers.

ETA:I’ve gotten away from that recently and may reserve the solvent tank to once a year at the end of the shooting season. Or, as I posted below, I’ll start using the Break Free Powder Blast once a year.

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=321721

ETA: Pic




If you search the M&C Forum you might find my write up on the BF Foaming Bore Cleaner. I've also mentioned it in other threads as well. I'm really impressed with how well it cleans and yes it's ammonia free.
Link Posted: 4/18/2007 1:18:21 PM EDT
I use brake cleaner. It only removes the loose particles and oils. It does NOT clean carbon, copper, or brass. You still have to use good ole solvents for that. But, mop it down with solvent, run a brush around it, let it sit for a few then blast it off with brake cleaner........Oooeee, does the trick. Then lube her back up, and she's ready to roll. I do however still do the barrel the old fashion way....patches, brass brush, and solvents. Sweet's for powder, first, then Hoppes Copper solvent. When clean, i run two patches soaked with brake cleaner, let dry, then two passes with Remoil. Damn, now everyone knows my trick.
Link Posted: 4/18/2007 3:20:18 PM EDT
A walk down memory lane here, but.....

When I was in the Army we had utility sinks in the latrine. Those puppies put out water hot enough to remove skin and with quite a bit of pressure. Now, we weren't officially ALLOWED to do this but a quick rinse under that steaming, high velocity water rinsed out the upper and lower quite well! Of course this was in Panama so coupled with the temp of the water and the air temp you could actually watch them dry themselves. Obviously the barrel was cleaned in the normal fashion and oil was applied to everything, but this was an effective way to clean out crud---at least the bulk of it.

I don't see too many of you guys advocating GunScrubber. Is there a reason? It seems to be verboten to the ARFCOM hive-cleaning mind.
Link Posted: 4/19/2007 4:20:02 AM EDT
height=8
Originally Posted By PropDoc:
I use brake cleaner. It only removes the loose particles and oils. It does NOT clean carbon, copper, or brass. You still have to use good ole solvents for that. But, mop it down with solvent, run a brush around it, let it sit for a few then blast it off with brake cleaner........Oooeee, does the trick. Then lube her back up, and she's ready to roll. I do however still do the barrel the old fashion way....patches, brass brush, and solvents. Sweet's for powder, first, then Hoppes Copper solvent. When clean, i run two patches soaked with brake cleaner, let dry, then two passes with Remoil. Damn, now everyone knows my trick.Some receivers have some type of coating in them that brake cleaner will strip away, don't they?
Link Posted: 4/19/2007 5:33:22 AM EDT
91% Isopropal Alcohol. Works great and drys fast!

Also is Wipe Out safe on chrome? I use it and it does not mention chrome bores. Seem to work really well so far on copper fouling.
Link Posted: 4/19/2007 6:38:11 AM EDT

what bore cleaners are ammonia free so they won't interact with the chrome lining of the barrel?


I've never heard of ammonia reacting poorly to a chrome bore unless it is left in for extended periods of time. What is supposed to happen?
Link Posted: 4/20/2007 2:00:48 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Tempest45:

what bore cleaners are ammonia free so they won't interact with the chrome lining of the barrel?


I've never heard of ammonia reacting poorly to a chrome bore unless it is left in for extended periods of time. What is supposed to happen?




It's supposed to cause a form of oxidation, i.e. rust.
Link Posted: 4/21/2007 4:49:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/21/2007 4:53:29 AM EDT by BillBond]
I really like Kleen Bore Gunk-Out and have used it for years.

Guns scrubber works well but costs over twice as much as Kleen Bore with the same results.
I also had Gun Scrubber melt some plastic in a Marlin Camp 9 that the Marlin factory said was not supposed to happen.

You could save some money and use brake cleaner but
you need to be sure it is not the kind that will remove more than you want.

Link Posted: 4/21/2007 5:19:24 AM EDT
I just purchased a can of Break-free Powder Blast. After my next range trip I’ll let you guys know what I think.

Link Posted: 4/21/2007 5:59:55 AM EDT
Nothing. I haven't sprayed out an upper for years.

I just wipe the fouling out. If it's baked on, I use a patch wet with solvent (either CLP or mpro7) to loosen it up then wipe it out.

I don't like spraying with degreasers because it removes the protecting oil from things that are hard to get to, like the forward assist. OTOH, I live in OR and I do shoot outside from time to time so corrosion protection is important to me.

Also,they cost money and run out fast. The pint of CLP and gallon of mpro7 last a long time. BSW
Link Posted: 4/21/2007 6:16:46 AM EDT
Well of course common sense says to re-lube accordingly if you do spray out your entire weapon or use solvent tanks or baths.





Link Posted: 4/21/2007 6:28:45 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ABNAK:
I don't see too many of you guys advocating GunScrubber. Is there a reason? It seems to be verboten to the ARFCOM hive-cleaning mind.


Mainly the cost. Break cleaner is simply cheaper.
Link Posted: 4/21/2007 8:08:10 AM EDT
I've used brake cleaner before and it took lubbing the living crap out of my rifle to bring back it's outer finish. There were whitish streaks all over it where the cleaner draine out to the exterior. I decided from then on to just use heavy plastic brushes with solvent then re lube. I only lube the parts that touch something, seems to work but be SURE you got everything. If your not sure then coat everything.
Link Posted: 4/21/2007 8:09:26 AM EDT
nothing, I just use CLP mixed with tranny fluid and the chamber stars
Link Posted: 4/21/2007 5:09:29 PM EDT
I buy the 30 some odd oz. spray bottles of Mpro7 and just spray out the upper (and lower when needed) with that and let it sit for a few. Let the excess drain then scrub and wipe and repeat. Follow up wit Slip.
Link Posted: 4/22/2007 3:37:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/22/2007 3:38:41 PM EDT by CoffeeAddict19]
You guys have defenitly taken the art of overcleaning your rifle to a new level. The marines probably don't even do this shit.
Link Posted: 4/22/2007 4:04:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/22/2007 4:08:55 PM EDT by army_eod]
Breakfree Powder Blast and if I am worried about polymers, I use Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber.

Oh, yeah...like Sarge says. Better lube anything you clean because it is bone dry and no lube left anywhere...or dirt.


Link Posted: 4/22/2007 4:57:37 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CoffeeAddict19:
You guys have defenitly taken the art of overcleaning your rifle to a new level. The marines probably don't even do this shit.


Have you ever served? If so you’d think other wise. Most rifles around here are far from “over cleaned” especially verses what’s taught in the military.



Link Posted: 4/22/2007 4:59:05 PM EDT
I used to use CLP religiously. However I started having fail to feed and fail to eject problem. Granted part of this is likely caused by not only the fact that I used CLP religiously, but also liberally. After a little carbon buildup soetimes I would have a "goo" in certain areas around the bolt carrier.

Anyway in the mean time I started experimenting with different mixtures of Mobil 1 (5w-40, for diesels), Marvel Mystery Oil, CLP and Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Right now my sweet spot mixture seems to be 2pt Mobil1, 2pt Marvel, 1p ATF, and a little CLP in the mix...if I feel like it.

What I have found is Marvel cuts through build up very well, without damaging parts, and a combination of ATF and/or Mobil seems to lube my rifles better than CLP does.
Not only that, but it's far cheaper than CLP. Cheap enough I can literally mix up whole vats of the stuff. I haven't tried to run a diesel truck off of CLP yet, but somehow I don't imagine it will do as well as Mobil 1 will. And I won't even discuss ATF, it's so durable.

I guess change every 3000mi, or 7000 rounds, whichever comes first.

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