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Posted: 2/28/2009 8:24:08 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/28/2009 8:27:03 AM EST by offshorebear]
I'm trying to get a quad rail on my RRA Entry Tactical, but I need to do it on a budget. I'm looking at the YHM light weight free float rails for 100 bucks. What else do I need to buy to install it? I don't have any gun specific tools, just some hand tools as I'm at college. The directions talk about buying a YHM wrench but do I really need it?

I have a normal flash hider, that just comes off with a wrench, right?

I have a railed FSB that is held on by hex screws, I can just take that off with an Allen wrench. I can take everything off after that up to the delta ring. Do I need a barrel wrench for that? Will the YHM wrench do it?

Do I really need a vise to do this?


The two peice no FF drop in rails are looking better and better as I think about this.

Thanks
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 9:31:36 AM EST
You will need an amorers wrech for takin the nut off that holds the barrel on and thats really it...you already said the rest...it took me about 10
minutes to do mine
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 9:55:12 AM EST
You will need this wrench http://www.dpmsinc.com/store/products/?prod=1135&cat=1450 and a either a set of barrel jaws or a clamshell receiver holder. You will also need a torque wrench. You can remove your gas block with an allen wrench the right size. Check out FALARAK's tacked thread for the procedure to rebarrel an AR. Essentially that's what you're doing only you're keeping the same barrel and changing the handguard.

If you think this is too much for your experience or too much strain on your budget for tools I would say ask for help in your Hometown Forum. I'll bet you can find someone willing to help you out.

Link Posted: 2/28/2009 10:40:32 AM EST
I have gotten away with using the action block (clamshell type) and large clamps on a workbench, when I didn't have a vice available.
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 11:38:53 AM EST
Do I really need an action block and all that? How much force are we talking about for the barrel nut, can't I just put a big wrench over the gun or have someone else hold the gun?

I'm not looking to spend 85 bucks on tools I'll never use again to install a 100 dollar rail, but I don't want to go cheap and damage the gun. If I really do need all these tools I'll just look for a 2 peice that locks up tight within my budget.

Thanks for the help so far.
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 1:19:50 PM EST
2 piece rails are your best bet. You will need an action block, barrel wrench for the standard barrel nut then a YHM wrench for fit their barrel nut and the tubes locking ring. Tooling will cost more than the rail itself. Without the correct tooling you could screw up the finish or actually damage something.
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 2:19:04 PM EST
You don't need the YHM wrench for their barrel nut, the DPMS wrench works just fine. It did for when I installed my YHM nut and forearm.

But the torque specs for the barrel nut is 30ft/lbs to 80ft/lbs so you do need something to hold the receiver or barrel solidly. Like I said I'll bet you can find someone in the PA hometown forum who has the tools and will lend you a hand. Or go with the two piece handguards like chuck1 sugguested.
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 2:22:41 PM EST
Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob:
You don't need the YHM wrench for their barrel nut, the DPMS wrench works just fine. It did for when I installed my YHM nut and forearm.

But the torque specs for the barrel nut is 30ft/lbs to 80ft/lbs so you do need something to hold the receiver or barrel solidly. Like I said I'll bet you can find someone in the PA hometown forum who has the tools and will lend you a hand. Or go with the two piece handguards like chuck1 sugguested.


How did you tighten locking ring?
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 3:50:06 PM EST
Hollow ground screwdriver bit and the tap of a hammer.

It doesn't have to be cranked on all that tight. Just good and snug and taking it easy with a screwdriver bit and hammer is just as good. Not "WHANG, WHANG, WHANG" but more like "tap, tap, tap".
Link Posted: 2/28/2009 6:36:50 PM EST
Actually, if you wrap some electrical tape around it ( 5 or 6 wraps) you can tighten it with some channel lock pliers.( the YHM lock ring)
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 10:28:51 AM EST
I wonder if a small strap wrench would do the trick as well..... Been thinking about getting one of these quad rail free float tubes. Unfortunately my NCSTAR armorers wrench will not fit the jamb nut.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 11:53:03 AM EST
Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob:
Hollow ground screwdriver bit and the tap of a hammer.

It doesn't have to be cranked on all that tight. Just good and snug and taking it easy with a screwdriver bit and hammer is just as good. Not "WHANG, WHANG, WHANG" but more like "tap, tap, tap".


Same here .. worked fine
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 12:11:06 PM EST
Action block and torque wrench are key. YHM's instructions say snug the barrel nut and then use the barrel nut wrench to tighten to the next hole. That probably works, but on mine, that meant something like 20 ft/lbs of torque and inconsistent groups. I went back and and it had to go to the full 80 to get the next hole, but my gun shot better. The torque spec is there for a reason was what I learned.

No way you can tighten the barrel nut enough without an action block. Too easy to screw up your upper. I wouldn't dream of trying to improvise on securing the upper.

I also used the YHM tool for the locking ring. If you're careful the screw driver method works I guess, but be careful.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 1:08:19 PM EST
if you dont want to buy an action block, you can always make an alternate: two 2x4s cut out to fit the upper tight. thats what i did with a cheap craftsman router and some carefully taken measurements. ive assembled 8 rifles with no problems whatsoever. to be honest, i would have just bought an action block, but i coudnt for the life of me find one during my first build, so i had to do what i had to do.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 3:14:39 PM EST
Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob:


Not "WHANG, WHANG, WHANG" but more like "tap, tap, tap".




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