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Posted: 10/9/2004 4:23:44 PM EDT
The ejection port cover rod on my AR is always coming loose. It's a RRA from ADCO and pretty damn nice at that. BUT, when I got it the ejection port cover kept coming off when firing. The rod and spring seemed bad so steve at adco sent me a totally new ejection port cover and related pieces (spring, rod, cover). I installed the new pieces but the end of the ejection port rod close to the shooter still seems to "work" its way out when shooting. Of course, if the rod falls out the whole darn ejection port cover falls off.

I've never had this problem with any of my Army 16s or my prior uppers on my AR. What might be defective? I hope it's not something on the upper! I'm no ME, but it seems like if i were to design the M16, i'd have something caputure that rod on both side of the ejetion port cover, not just the slide closest to the muzzle.

Thanks for any tips.
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 4:34:33 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 4:35:00 PM EDT
There should be a very small cir clip or retaining ring around the end of the port cover pin up by the front of the ejection port. This keeps the whole assy from walking aft.
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 4:43:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/9/2004 4:45:44 PM EDT by spookyspiff]
Ah ha ha! Maybe I see my "problem." I have daniel defense 9.0 forend on my midlength. The front of the ejection port cover rod contacts.... nothing! It could easily go forward far enough to come out before it would come into contact with anything else.

Is this a design flaw with this forend or am I missing something?

edited to add:

I do have the retaining ring to the front of the ejection port cover rod (that is, the end closest to the muzzle) but this retaining ring only prevents the rod from going to the rear too far, not from going forward too far.

Link Posted: 10/9/2004 4:53:47 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 4:59:19 PM EDT
I'd love to see a picture of this.
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 5:09:07 PM EDT
Hal9K, are you wishing to see a picture of my rifle with it's problem or the proposed solution with an additional C clip on the rear part of the rod?

As for my issue, what's happening is that the "delta ring" on my DD 9.0 isn't a delta ring at all of course. I have no idea what these parts would be called on the DD foreend, but if you have a DD 9.0 foreend you might see that there is an "outer ring' and an "inner ring." Between the two there are a ring of holes. My ejection port rod slips right over the inner ring which I believe it is supposed to contact, thus retaining the ejection port rod.

I realize my description is impossible to visualize unless you have the DD foreend, but that's the best i can word it.
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 6:39:26 PM EDT
Now I want to see a picture 'cause I can't picture what you just described!
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 6:51:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/9/2004 6:53:08 PM EDT by mongo001]
I look at my M4gery, which has a DD 7.0 on it and I think I can see what you are talking about, BUT my ejection port cover rod hits a part of the barrel nut, the ledge with all the copper anti-seize on it (gotta clean that crap off), so that it cannot move into the hole in the barrel nut. Differences in tolerances of all of your parts must allow just enough clearance for the rod to clear the barrel nut ledge and move forward into the barrel nut. See pic below:

Link Posted: 10/9/2004 7:55:10 PM EDT
Mono001 hit it on the nose. His picture and description depicts exactly what is happening. The rod slip right over the ledge and into the barrel nut as it pleases.

What should i do to resolve this?
Link Posted: 10/9/2004 8:44:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/9/2004 8:44:59 PM EDT by Timanator]
They might have to change the design a bit to accomodate the tolerances differences between manufactures. Both of mine the barrel nut are not recessed too far in to not retain the ejection port door pin.

Here is my RRA upper with YHM handguard:

And Bushmaster A3:

Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:02:20 AM EDT
Plug the hole in the barrel nut.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:21:58 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Parrandero:
Plug the hole in the barrel nut.

The hole would not be the problem, the ledge needs to hold it back correct?
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:24:30 AM EDT
That seems correct DM1975.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:26:10 AM EDT

Originally Posted By spookyspiff:
That seems correct DM1975.

Just wanted to clarify...

Also, the rod isnt bent at the tip any is it?
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:38:51 AM EDT
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:44:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/10/2004 5:49:34 AM EDT by QUIB]
I don't know how hard the steel is that the pin is made of, but you could try flaring the aft end of the pin with a hammer then touch up with cold blue. Looking at my M4gery there is not much pin sticking out to cut a slot for another cir clip. You might be able to cut a new slot farther up front on the pin allowing it to sit farther back, then cut a slot for a clip on the aft end. If you chuck the pin in a drill and have a small file you may be able to make a nice clean cut.

Just some off the top ideas.

Edited to add: I like cmjohnson's drill/saw blade idea, didn't even see that before I posted my drill/file idea!
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:52:22 AM EDT
Rod doesn't look bent any. That would certainly screw things up if it was bent away from the ledge.

As for the idea of another C-clip, that section of the rod is really short. I think you'd have to redo both ends as one of the other posters mentioned.

As for the idea of bending the end of the rod down so it hits the ledge, the problem as i see it would be that if the rod spins, then the flare down would become a flare up and just go past the ledge again.

I really need an ever so bigger ledge. If I could do something to build it up just a little bit where the rod is supposed to hit then it would be fine.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 8:06:28 AM EDT
What I mean by "flaring" is not to bend the tip down but to beat it out flat with a hammer, widening the tip so it dosent walk forward. If you have a bench vise, and the pin is not too hard, you could lay the very tip of the pin on the edge of the vise. Hitting the tip a couple of times with a hammer would flare the tip out making it wider than the hole in the receiver that it pivots in keeping it from walking out.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 8:13:17 AM EDT
QUIB, ok i get it now.

Would I be able to install the rod once it's been flared on the end? Doesn't the rod go through the ejection port cover holes from the rear requiring the flared end to be pushed through a hole?
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 8:35:18 AM EDT

Originally Posted By spookyspiff:
QUIB, ok i get it now.

Would I be able to install the rod once it's been flared on the end? Doesn't the rod go through the ejection port cover holes from the rear requiring the flared end to be pushed through a hole?

Unless you remove the barrel.

I think this is a problem with the design of the Barrel nut.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 10:58:56 AM EDT

Originally Posted By spookyspiff:
QUIB, ok i get it now.

Would I be able to install the rod once it's been flared on the end? Doesn't the rod go through the ejection port cover holes from the rear requiring the flared end to be pushed through a hole?

You have a rod that is walking forward during firing. It is slipping past your FF's "delta ring" or "nut" up front and falling out of the rear pivot point. You stated before that the cir clip up front is present, so, you remove the cir clip and pull out the rod, removing the spring and door. Flare the aft end of the rod like I mentioned above. Re-assemble the spring and door on the rod as you slide it up from the rear mount. Re-install the clip!

This way the flared portion of the rod keeps the rod from walking forward and the cir clip keeps the rod from walking aft!

That is one option. The second would be the other method cmjohnson and I mentioned. Remove the rod. Install it in a drill. Using a small file or as cmjohnson stated, a hack saw blade, turn the rod as you machine a new groove in the aft portion of the rod. Now insert the rod in the upper, mark where you need to make a new groove in the forward end and repeat. If get close enough with your aft groove you may be lucky enough to be able to reuse your factory forward groove. Only draw back to this method is you need to order a second cir clip, unless you have spare parts laying around.

Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 12:15:16 PM EDT
QUIB, thanks for the detailed explanation. I think you dumbed it down enough for me to be able to visualize. I was a bit turned around on which end was going in first.

Link Posted: 10/10/2004 1:49:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/10/2004 1:50:38 PM EDT by cmjohnson]
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 2:35:18 PM EDT
I definitely installed everything with the barrel firmly attached. Since I have a DD 9.0 on there and I am no gunsmith, I didn't even consider removing the barrel. I can see that it would obviously be easier for me to install the this with the barrel removed, but that is beyond my current skill level. C clip is attached on the end closest to the barrel though.
Link Posted: 10/10/2004 5:15:48 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 11:37:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/18/2004 11:38:33 AM EDT by bigbore]
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 12:09:46 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 1:07:25 PM EDT
I'm definitely most interested in the loc-tite solution. I don't really have the setup to do the whole "vice smash" trick. thanks for the help.
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 1:22:37 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 1:25:27 PM EDT
Will give it a shot and then I'll have to test it to see if it stays together when shooting. Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/18/2004 1:30:11 PM EDT
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