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Posted: 10/11/2004 7:51:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/11/2004 10:18:59 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
I'm a newbie to AR's but i've done a little research.

I want to get started on building my own AR15 before some politician gets around to banning them again, but i need help compiling a parts list.

Here's the rules. I don't want to break the bank, But i want a top-notch combat-ready carbine. It will preferrably look badass too, but that's secondary. Spending money really isn't the isue if it means getting quality, but if one part is just as good as another, i don't want to be paying for a name. Frankly i don't care who's roll mark is on the receiver as long as it is quality.

The main thing about my project is i'm an AK47 buff who wants a reliable as hell gun that is ergonomic. My solution, gas piston AR. Found what i think i'm looking for at kurts custom (opinions on kurt's?). If i'm going wih a gas piston, i'm probably going with a side folding stock from Ace since i won't have that tube to contend with.

As for other parts, who to go with for inexpensive but good? I'll need a stripped lower, parts to complete a stripped lower, Upper receiver and components.

Here's some things i want, and some i don't want as well as some questions i have:

-16" barrel with standard threads for a phantom flash supressor.

-A comfortable grip.

-A handguard free of unnececary accessory rails, at most, a rail on the top, though i think even that is unnececary.

-Is a free floating handguard preferrable?

-To attach stuff i'd rather go with a tri-mount gas block thereby not sacraficing a comfortable grip.

-I have a bushnell holosight II on my SLR101 (Eotech wihout the rollbar). Should i use it, or leave it on my AK and get something else (Aimpoint?) Just don't go telling me to spend money on stuff that i don't need just because you like one type of optic over another. If the holosight is good enough i'd prefer not to go and shell out money on something else.

-Is it possible to cowitness the sights on a flattop upper with my holosight, what about something else (aimpoint?). What do i need to do it? I'd figure the sights would need to be higher to cowitness the holosight/eotech design, is there an advantage/disagvantage to this?

-Are folding sights worthwhile since i plan to have a close combat optic of some sort on my AR?

Link me up to some good parts, express your opinions, comment on changes you would make, etc.

I have never built my own gun before, so feel free to give some pointers. I do have a friend who can help with difficult stuff (he CAD's his own designs and mills them, so AR's are like lego's to him)
Link Posted: 10/11/2004 8:33:37 PM EDT
Ok, let's start with the gas piston ARs. Yes they're out there but the difference in reliability for 99% of applications is marginal at best. The two latest ones that come to mind are the HKM4 (416) and Frank DeSoma of POF-USA's gas piston upper based off the FAL piston. Click Here for a Review There's enough info about the HKM4 out there you can easily find yourself.

For an inexpensive, stripped, high quality lower, try Oly or RRA. As long as you get a forged lower from one of the major companies, you'll be fine. As for the lower parts kit, the RRA parts kit from Adco's a good way to go for $55.

Almost all no-ban barrels with the exception of match or varmint barrels use standard threads for a flash hider. Putting a Phantom on is as easy as screwing off the old flash hider (if it's installed) and putting the Phantom on.

Grip comfort is subjective. Try a few out and decide which one you like.

Free floating (will lower your groups from about 1.5 - 2.5 MOA to .5 to 1.5 MOA) and not wanting rails means you're looking at a FF tube. Rock River or Armalite are the two best ways to go probably. Armalite has pretty nice fiberglass handguards that won't heat up as much as RRA's aluminum ones.

Tri-mount gas blocks on the other hand will affect your accuracy. Any weight you put on the barrel will cause it to react unpredictably when you fire. If you're going to mount the railed gas block, make sure whatever you're attaching is light weight. For a light, I suggest the Insight/Springfield XML.

Your Holosight will serve you fine. If you're not going to be throwing your rifle on the ground or going into combat, the Holosight is no different for your purposes than an EOTech. Sure you could go with an Aimpoint but you're looking at about $350 mininum if you include the rings.

Folding front sights aren't all that necessary if you cowitness them with your Holosight. That way the red dot is right above your front sight post. Rear ones on the other hand are.

Finally, if you've never built your own, make sure you have some roll pin punches, hammer, mallet, a stock wrench, and a set of hex heads for your screwdriver. Also, make sure you get a good instruction book or use the instructions on this website to help. If you have more questions, feel free to IM me or post on this board and I'm sure somebody will help.
Link Posted: 10/11/2004 9:12:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/11/2004 9:56:08 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
so, in your opinion, is the piston upper not worth the extra expense? Is it even an extra expense and by how much? I'd like to be able to use a gas system that would allow for a side folding stock as i'd want it to be as compact as possible for storage. Collapsable stocks are kinda useless to me as a lefty as i wast to keep my nose far away from the ejection port. Talk me into something.

What would you suggest for a gas system given my desire for a folding stock? Are they completely reliable? (i'm guessing i'll have to clean it more than my AK no matter how i build it)

I didn't know that about accuracy with the tri-mount. Does anyone make a free floating forearm with rails only on the forward couple inches. A full rail on the top is okay, but i'd like to leave the bottom and sides with the exception of the front few inches. I was thinking of a gg&g adaptor on the bottom rail and an insight M3 Perhaps a laser unit, but that's just frosting on the cake at this point.

Not looking to spend $300 on a forearm either. If worst comes to worst i'll just go with a 4rail forearm and cap off the rails. I've seen that before...not the prettiest thing, but it would get the job done.

From what you're saying, i gather the flip up front sight is only for if i wanted to use something with magnification (where cowitnessing would be a bad thing), and therefore unneccecary for my purposes.
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 6:46:41 AM EDT
The gas system has nothing to do with the stock. The AR-15 has an extension tube, buffer spring, and buffer that runs inside the stock, which is why you never see a folding stock unless the lower is somehow altered to a non-standard design. Lloyd DeSantis of RND Manufacturing though makes a modified lower with a folding stock. Here is his contact info:

RND Manufacturing Inc.
Lloyd DeSantis
14311 Mead St.
Longmont CO 80504
e-mail: rndedge@bwn.net

Yes, the PRI Gen II tube is exactly what you're looking for. Adco has them for $160.

Yes, flip ups are primarily designed if you have any sort of optics, magnified or not. Some people don't like to see their sights when they look through their EOTech or Aimpoint, it's a matter of preferance.
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 8:01:24 AM EDT
Ah, okay, i thought the buffer tube had to do with the gas system since the only guns i saw with folding stocks were either gas piston or non-standard gas systems like the ZM designs. What's the effec t of the modification on functioning when using a normal gas system? Anyone have pics of this DeSantis setup?

http://www.adcofirearms.com/acc/pri.cfm Looked and can't find what you're talking about. I see the GenIII forearm, which looks good, but not $300 good.

Link Posted: 10/12/2004 11:22:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/12/2004 11:24:05 AM EDT by clubsoda22]
Ok, i made a decision on the forearm issue. I'm just gonna go with the 4 rail free float and use TangoDown Battlegrip covers for the sections of the rails that i'll be holding.

So now the question is, who makes a quality 4 rail forearm? RRA has them for $120, but if another company makes the same thing for less let me know (the point of the project, once again, isn't to spend money on names). I'm assuming on a 16" barreled gun i'm looking for carbine legnth, not mid legnth?
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 12:23:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/12/2004 12:54:45 PM EDT by caneau]
Even most of the gas piston systems require a buffer tube. What the buffer spring does is it returns the bolt to it's normal position forward after the gases push it back (or you pull on the charging handle and then hit the bolt release). Therefore, unless you want a one shot rifle, you have to have that spring there. Whether the gases push directly on the bolt or gases push on a piston which then pushes on a rod which then pushes on the bolt, you still need to return the bolt to its forward position.

If you scroll down about 2/3 of the way on Adco's website, you'll see the tube I was talking about.
Constructed of light weight aluminum. The rail is made to work with the Pri free float forearm. The 1913 rail ties the upper reciever to the forearm to make a rigid platform for mounting any sighting or lighting equiptment required.

But...if you're going to go with a free float rail system, that's fine too. For inexpensive ones, the two that come to mind are the Oly Arms FIRSH and either of the YHM rails. I've heard the RRA ones are pretty heavy, but for $120 installed if you buy it with their upper, it's not a bad deal. As for what length, it really depends on your gas system and on how you want your rifle to look.
The "classic" look for a carbine is a 7" handguard with a fixed front sight and about 8" of barrel past the front sight.
I have a 16" barreled gun from RRA with the mid-length gas system. The FF tube is 9" long with a gas block in front. That means I have about 6" of barrel sticking out past my gas block. What I am going to do shortly though is replace my gas block with a low profile one (so it goes completely under my tube) and get a rifle length tube (12") so I'll only have 4" of barrel sticking out from underneath my handguards. To finish it off, I'm going to mount a lower height front sight on top of my tube.
So, to answer your question, if you get a carbine gas system, you can install a low profile gas block and go with a mid-length (or rifle length theoretically) tube. If you get a mid-length gas system, you can get a mid-lenght or a rifle length tube. It all depends on how you want your rifle to look and function.

RND Manufacturing website
Click here
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 5:39:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/12/2004 5:52:32 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
I think i like the idea of a low profile gas block and a forearm that covers the entire thing. Hell with the crazy gas system and folding stock too. I'l just have faith that Eugene knew what he was doing when he made this rifle.

Wow, my design has completely changed. New Rules!

-I've decided on the RRA stripped lower and upper. Who has them in stock, preferably with quantity discounts because my dad decided, since i'm building an AR already, i might as well build him one too (he wants something more like a rifle a designated marksman would use, but i'll get into that later)

-Parts kits for lower/upper receiver

-I'm going with the ACE M4 SOCOM stock

-Barrel, 16", low profile gas block, standard threads. 1 in 9 twist rate for accuracy with the most number of loads. I'll probably be using 55gr FMJ as my standard round. target practice and self-defence. I know that will work with 1 in 7, but i don't want to rule out ever using lighter loads and it's not a long range rifle so i doubt i'll ever use 80 grain loads.

-Phantom FS

-Forearm, quad rail, midlegnth to completely cover the gas block. perhaps a cap on the end for a more finished look and to keep large debris out. Opinions on Yankee Hill Machine as they seem to make the forearm and cap that i'm looking for.

-Tangodown Battlegrip covers to make the forearm comfortable to hold and a good place to mount the pressure switch for the M3 (riding on GG&G rail adaptor on the forward bottom portion of the forearm).

-Something that attaches over the flattop receiver rail and upper forearm rail for added rigidity. (do you think that's neccecary? Wil it light up just fine without i, maintain allignment, etc? I will be mounting the front sight on he forarm.)

-On the top i want a folding rear sight and fixed but removable front sight (mounted on forearm rail) they must properly cowitness my Bushnell Holosight II. That way if the holosight takes a dump in a hairy situation all i have to do is pop up the rear sight and i'm ready to rock and roll again without removing the holosight.

As usual. Comments, querstion ,suggestions.
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 8:06:01 PM EDT
Sounds fine to me. As for the additional mounting of the forearm to the rail on your upper receiver, it is not necessary. The biggest advantage with this is if you have a scope, you'll have an easier time mounting it further forward than if you simply had a rail on the top of your forearm (it sits more level for obvious reasons). Also, you can mount your optics further forward (that's a matter of personal taste though) or have dual optics (usually night vision behind a Holosight or Aimpoint). If you want to do this, the best way to go I believe is the CAS-V by Abrams. Give Cade an email at cade@abrams.com and he'll set you up. Note about the CAS-V. It mounts to your delta ring and to your rail, so installation does not require taking half the upper apart as with some other rail systems.
Besides that, build away. You'll probably change your mind a few times during the process and maybe even again once you're done (which happened to me). Don't worry though, it makes building your second, third, and fourth rifles that much easier.
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 8:16:09 PM EDT
Since i'm building the upper my self, i'd just put it in during the initial assembly, but, since it's not neccecary. i'm not going to bother with it. Question about the forearm mounted front sight...there's not enough play in the forearm to throw the zero on the iron sights is there? That was the main reason i asked about it.
Link Posted: 10/12/2004 10:19:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/12/2004 10:20:26 PM EDT by caneau]
Woah, hold on there. If this is your first build, DO NOT build the upper yourself. I missed the part in your previous post about the stripped upper, my appologies. I'm not trying to be mean or anything, but you're going to get yourself into more trouble than it's worth. There was a post a while back about a guy not having a gas key in his bolt and it KBed his brand new AR after only 20 some rounds. Building the lower's fairly easy on the other hand, which is what most people call "building" a rifle.
If you want the experience, get a stripped lower, a parts kit, and a stock, and put it together. If you put a lower together, the worst thing that can really happen is the rifle won't go off (for the most part, there are a few exceptions but they're rare). Usually the biggest mistake made will be installing a spring wrong or something to the like. It's a fun Sunday afternoon project. For the upper on the other hand, you need a hell of a lot more tools and experience. If you screw up the upper, you can potentially damage your gun, injure yourself, or worse. The upper's where all the stress of firing a round takes place, which means if it's not done right by the time you pull the trigger, you might be in for a big surprise.
So, my advise to you is this. Buy a complete upper from a major manufacturer with your rails and all. Get the lower receiver of your choice, a parts kit, stock, and some roll pin punches. Read up on how to put a lower together and make sure you have a good set of instructions, and then put together the lower. Put any finishing touches, sights, etc. on your gun, go out to the range, and enjoy. Once you're 100% familiar with how the gun functions, then consider building an upper.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 4:02:05 AM EDT
Well, i'm not exactly building it on my own. I am doing it with the help of a friend who is fairly skilled. Like, the kind of guy who CAD's his own firearm designs then makes every part on a mill. With a detailed how-to manual and his engineering skill, it should be like putting togeather combat-ready legos.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 7:57:52 AM EDT
Drawing something in CAD and putting together and AR have almost nothing in common and I doubt your friend is going to be making a bolt carrier group on a CNC machine any time soon unless he is incredibly good. Believe me, I work with engineerings all the time and if I told them to put together my AR, they'd be lost. In fact, there's one who I'm helping build his AR. Again, I'm not trying put you down, just telling this for your own good (and maybe even safety), you do not know enough about firearms to be putting together your upper. So, if your friend wants to manufactuer a flashlight mount, more power to him. Personally though, I wouldn't trust anybody but the top dozen or so AR manufacturers with building the parts a safe, reliable upper and neither should you.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 9:36:10 AM EDT
Whats so hard about building an upper? I thought it was quite easy and straightforward. All the manuals are readily available, and no offense to the master gunsmiths here, but building this rifle isn't exactly rocket science. More like what club soda said, combat ready legos. Seriously, if you can't correctly assemble an upper, you better stay far away from the engine bay of your car. B/C groups come asembled, same with the charging handle, torque down the barrel nut, and FH and you are done. Go no go HS if your paranoid, and voila. Even if you build the bolt/carrier yourself, it's still not that difficult. Maybe if you had just loose parts, and no manual to go by it would be hard, but don't scare the kid.

You can do it clubsoda, don't let these guys scare ya off. After an afternoonn working on it, you can come back here and rag on caneau for wasting his money having "professionals" build his for him. To each their own though.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 11:27:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2004 11:29:23 AM EDT by caneau]
Case and point when people who don't know what they're doing try to put something together:
Newbie KB
FYI, I think this guy's BSing when he says that it was a pre-assembled upper.

I'm not saying putting an upper together is rocket science. All I'm saying is Clubsoda doesn't know what a buffer spring does or the advantages of free floating, it's probably best if he doesn't try to take on more than he can do. We all were new once and didn't know these things either but most of us started out with at least an assembled upper if not an assembled firearm. I'd hate for someone new to shooting have their firearm malfunction because they didn't install their gas tube properly.
Yes, I'll admit, I had RRA build my upper. But here's why. After I did the math, I would need to buy a vice, an armorer's block, and a barrel wrench, which plus the cost of the stripped upper, gas tube, FF tube, bolt carrier group, barrel, and flash hider, actually came out to be more than if I just bought it from RRA directly. Best of all, they have a lifetime warrenty, so if something goes wrong, I just send it back and have it repaired or replaced, free of charge.

Clubsoda, you have my opinion on the matter. I'm not trying to scare you away because once you get used to your first AR and know how it functions, I would highly recommend you build your second upper yourself. Just get your basics of firearm operation, maintence, and assembly down first before you take on more challenging projects.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 11:45:07 AM EDT
holy shit, that was cool link. Your point is well taken, but if he has help from a machinist who can "CAD his own firearm designs then machine them" I don't think assembly will be a problem. Most people capable of CAD and CNC is capable of reading a manual, lol. Who knows, maybe not.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 1:09:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2004 1:19:05 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
My line of thinking here is, you don't have to be a rocket scientist to do this. I could pick up a manual, study it for a week and know what i'm doing. The fact that i'm working with someone who's life calling is firearms design is icing on the cake. Working on CAD and putting togeather an AR are different, that is, unless the work you do on CAD is designing firearms which you then machine and put togeather. Then it's at least the same ballpark. Seriously, i doubt i'll even have to enlist his help.

I'm also not going to be assembling every little part. Saving 15 cents isn't worth the hours to put togeather a bunch of tiny parts. When i work on my car i don't make my own PS pump, I buy a quality built one. I know my limits. I'll be buying an assembled bolt/carrier and just piecing it togeather. (yeah, i know that's what the guy in the post said he did, but i can't imagine a company being so negligent as to forget the gas key) I'm not spending money on a fully assembled upper however. I should have made that more clear.

Like what ridley says about working on cars. When my car breaks, I figure out what went wrong, look up how to fix it in the haynes manual and do it myself. For the majority of jobs it's not worth spending $75/hr for a mechanic. I've replaced intake manifolds, power brake pumps and countless other parts just by reading the book and following instructions. It's just a saturday in the garage. I feel the same way about this project (even if it takes multiple saturdays).

The guy in the post you linked to obviously never played with lego's as a kid or he'd have followed the instructions and put the gun togeather right. I came in here not knowing what a buffer spring did or what the advantages of free floating were, now i do. I don't have a learning disability, and learning how to put pre-assembled parts togeather won't be a problem for me. I'll come out of the build knowing as much about the AR15 design as anyone.

What i need this groups help with is knowing which parts are quality. I'm new to the world of AR's and don't know which manufacturers make junk and which ones make good stuff. If i pop up and say, i found a bolt carrier made by XYZ, feel free to tell me XYZ sucks, buy ABC instead.

And don't worry, the gun will go to a certified AR-15 armorer in my area to be inspected before the first round is fired.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 1:28:16 PM EDT
It's your money partner, do as you wish. If your gun works flawlessly, more power to you. If it fails, don't say nobody warned you. Good luck with your build.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 1:30:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2004 1:33:56 PM EDT by Ridley]
I agree club soda, you shouldn't have a problem whatsover. You also don't need all the tools that many in here say you do either, unless you plan on building MANY rifles. A hammer, punch set(any punch really), needlenose pliers, barrel wrench, and any decent vise and you can build complete guns in no time. The action blocks, yada yada, are really not needed. Use your noggin and save your cash. For the upper, the only half way hard thing to do is torque the barrel nut and align for the gas tube. A decent leather wrap with an old jacket around the upper, and some common sense in the vise, and you'll be able to get the 35ftlbs on the nut easy, and not have wasted 40 bucks on a set of blocks. I'd also recommend installing the FH before installing the barrel on the upper. If your gonna install the lower parts kit, I'd recommend installing the pivot pin and detent/spring inside a large ziplock bag. It's a little tricky, and until you get the hang of it, you'll probably shoot the detent off into space a few times.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 1:46:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2004 1:47:43 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
ziplock bag is an awesome idea.

Back to parts. What kind of trigger should i get? It's going to be a 16" bareled carbine, but with a free floated barrel that has nothing hanging off of it, it should be pretty decent at punching holes. Should i throw down the money for a 2 stage national match trigger? Like me up to a good manufacturer.

And on the same topic, who to go with for the barrel?

Links appreciated.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 1:49:04 PM EDT

Originally Posted By caneau:
It's your money partner, do as you wish. If your gun works flawlessly, more power to you. If it fails, don't say nobody warned you. Good luck with your build.

Thanks! I'll try not to blow myself up!
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 2:10:32 PM EDT
personally, if you want a "match" trigger, I'd get the JP drop in module for 200$ or chip mcCormick drop in for 170$. If you want a standard mil spec, Just get a good quality parts kit(Bushy, RRA, etc). Personally, I took the middle ground, and bought the Bushmaster parts kit, and then installed the JP yellow springs(reduced weight) for about 10 bucks from brownells. They made a world of difference in crispness and pull weight, but there's still a tad bit of creep. Better than any standard trigger I've felt in any AR though(besides a wilson UT15 with a JP trigger), and will retain the reliabilty the mil spec parts were designed for, and way more than adequate for a 16" close to mid range shooter. If you were going to build a 20 inch tack driver and planned on shooting at extreme distances, then I'd recommend the JP module with super light pull. Myself, I didn't want it too light as my gun is also my primary home defense weapon, and too light a trigger is not a good thing I personally don't like two stage triggers much, but thats a personal preference deal. Maybe you'll love em. I would just spend the extra 50-75 bucks on the mcCormick or JP module myself though thats properly set up and tuned, rather than buy some of the national match parts kits. Better set up with better results, for not alot more money. Just my opinion though.

As for a barrel, I recommend chome lined. The rest is all personal preference, as there are good and bad shooters from all companies out there. Bushy, colt, RRA, wilson, and many others make good barrels, and all are capable of good accuracy with the right ammo. Pick a style you like the looks of and can get a good deal on. I went way out there on my last choice of barrels, I won't recommend them till i get it mounted and see what kind of groups I can get. Looks cool though!!
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 2:44:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2004 2:57:02 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
I think i'm going to go the route you did for my trigger. When i build the 20" tac driver for my dad, that's where i'll drop big money on a trigger. I'm coming from an AK-47, (albeit a very nice one from arsenal inc) so any AR trigger is going to feel great to me.

I figure a 1 in 9 twist for my gun should allow me to shoot the widest variety of ammo. Standard ammo will probably be 55gr FMJ as it's cheap to practice with and a potent manstopper. correct me if i'm wrong, but the 1 in 9 should handle everything from 40gr to 69 gr, where a 1 in 7 will be able to launch 55gr to 77 gr with decent accuracy? (i'm not planning on getting a throated competition barrel just to shoot 80 gr) Chrome lined was a must from the first post.
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 3:40:06 PM EDT
actually some AR triggers suck I am going to buy the Chip McCormick Drop in with flat bar single stage... two stage is for slow fire I shoot in "tactical" matches I need rapid fire capability. The flat trigger feels better and I think functions better also it looks cool because its different
Link Posted: 10/13/2004 7:45:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2004 9:00:55 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
I don't think i want to drop $175 on a trigger. I think the RRA standard triger out of the parts kit and the jp yellow springs are the way i'm gonna go. However, when i build my dads rifle i'll probably drop the money for the McCormick or JP trigger.

Oh, any nice things you can recommend for a left handed shooter (mag catch, selector switch, charging handle)?

I just read the articles on this websight about how to assemble the upper and lower. It looks rediculously easy with the right tools.


-Wilson AR0200ASY Chrome Moly Barrel Assembly, 16'' CAR, Pre-Ban $160

What do you guys think? Of course, i'd ditch the sight for a low profile gas block.

Link Posted: 10/14/2004 4:58:49 PM EDT
There's been a change. My dad wants me to build his first. This gives me money to play with on my first build.
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 5:05:02 PM EDT
Just don't confuse Chrome moly with chrome lined as they are not the same. Chrome moly is the type of steel used in the barrel. There's many different grades of it, ie 4130, 4140, 4150. Chrome lined is an actual hard chrome plating thats applied after machining. I suggest spending the little bit extra now on chrome lining, and having a barrel that lasts twice as long.
Link Posted: 10/14/2004 10:08:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/14/2004 10:15:16 PM EDT by clubsoda22]
Yeah, i realized that soon after i posted it. I also decided not to go with a heavy barrel on my design. I kept shopping around and found the wilson chrome lined barrel for $145.

I also just got my hands on an Ace SOCOM stock for $145 shipped, so i'm quite happy.

On my dads gun i'm going with a 20" stainless 1 in 8 bull barrel. Does anyone know of an AR stock with an adjustable cheek weld for my dads gun?
Link Posted: 10/16/2004 2:38:12 PM EDT
Originally Posted By clubsoda22:
Yeah, i realized that soon after i posted it. I also decided not to go with a heavy barrel on my design. I kept shopping around and found the wilson chrome lined barrel for $145.

Where did you find that at? I'll be needing a barrel myself.
Link Posted: 10/17/2004 2:14:15 AM EDT
before i post that, i'm gonna call the guy tomorrow and confirm the price. The websight says $145 and it has a checkbox if you want it chrome lined and mentions nothing about costing more. Sounds too good to be true, so i'm gonna call and ask.
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