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Posted: 5/12/2003 2:30:14 PM EDT
All i have had in the past is a2s and I just picked up a minty Sp1 colt today and was wondering what was the "proper" distance and what aperture you are supposed to zero A1 sites at thanks.
i fell kinda dumb having to ask
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 4:11:44 PM EDT
I had A1 sights when I went through basic. Flip to the small aperture, zero at 25 meters, flip back to large aperture and you are set. Remember to aim a tad low at 100 meters and a tad high at 300 meters and you'll be fine! That said, I'm sure you'll get much more useful/informed/scientific methods from others which you may find more to your liking. Congrats on the new piece!!
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 4:32:40 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FMJunkie: I had A1 sights when I went through basic. Flip to the small aperture, zero at 25 meters, flip back to large aperture and you are set. Remember to aim a tad low at 100 meters and a tad high at 300 meters and you'll be fine! That said, I'm sure you'll get much more useful/informed/scientific methods from others which you may find more to your liking. Congrats on the new piece!!
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Ther's a more effective way to set the A1 type sights. Zero the short range aperture (the unmarked one) at 50 yards. That will then give you a 200 METER zero. The highe( L marked) aperture will then be zeroed at just over 300 yards; roughly 300 meters. Note to FDM Junkie. If your issue M16A1 had a large and small aperture, they must have put an A2 aperture piece on it. A1s were originally built with a high and low aperture L piece that had the same size holes [:D]
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 4:36:19 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FMJunkie: I had A1 sights when I went through basic. Flip to the small aperture, zero at 25 meters, flip back to large aperture and you are set. Remember to aim a tad low at 100 meters and a tad high at 300 meters and you'll be fine! That said, I'm sure you'll get much more useful/informed/scientific methods from others which you may find more to your liking. Congrats on the new piece!!
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Small? Large? My A1 sights are all the same size rear aperature. According to the manuals... you zero the "L" marked sight at 25M. Then, you use the non marked aperature, which will be zeroed for 250M.
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 6:33:48 PM EDT
[url=groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/officialm16m16a1zeromethod.msnw]M16/M16A1 Zeroing[/url]
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 6:54:37 PM EDT
Originally Posted By shamayim:
Originally Posted By FMJunkie: I had A1 sights when I went through basic. Flip to the small aperture, zero at 25 meters, flip back to large aperture and you are set. Remember to aim a tad low at 100 meters and a tad high at 300 meters and you'll be fine! That said, I'm sure you'll get much more useful/informed/scientific methods from others which you may find more to your liking. Congrats on the new piece!!
View Quote
Ther's a more effective way to set the A1 type sights. Zero the short range aperture (the unmarked one) at 50 yards. That will then give you a 200 METER zero. The highe( L marked) aperture will then be zeroed at just over 300 yards; roughly 300 meters. Note to FDM Junkie. If your issue M16A1 had a large and small aperture, they must have put an A2 aperture piece on it. A1s were originally built with a high and low aperture L piece that had the same size holes [:D]
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Yeah, they were the nastiest franken-guns you've ever seen. There was a pretty wide mix of configs in my platoon but, my upper was an A1 sight (i.e., no elevation and the pain in the ass adjustment wheel), large/small apertures, teardrop FA, no integral brass deflector (I hate that damn plastic thingy!!) and A2 handguards. Lower was safe/semi/full with trapdoor pistol grip. FALARAK - that's what I described except substitute 'L' for small aperture. The idea is that you are impacting point of aim at 25 and 250 meters. You will hit about 2" high at 100 and about the same distance low at 300. Hence, all center mass aimed shots will be 'kill zone' from 0 to 300 meters with a single point of aim.
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