I am thinking about doing a trade with a local dealer for some Tula .223  to use in my AR for blasting ammo.

How does this ammo work? Does it do as well as Wolf .223? Any rumors of blowing up guns? Thanks for the help.

i wont buy tula again.  i had some a few weeks ago that i bought at Cabalas and was running it thru my mine 14 and mine 30 and had a lot of misfires.  some of the primers looked low,  i complained to cabalas and they sent me my $$ back.  but was not worth the aggravation of trying to shoot it free or not.

I have had only good luck with it. No misfires or any problems, cheap, and works in all my guns. I have shot a little over 500 rounds with decent accuracy for steel case.

I've only shot a couple hundred rounds so far but my Stag has not had any issues with Tula.

How does Tula ammo work?

Not very well. I'll never buy any more.

My first round out of the first box of Tula I've ever owned had no rim what-so-ever cut into it. It was completely rimless. Good thing I caught it before loading it into my mag.



Other rounds had lots of bullet jacket pushed up above the neck. Had to throw 10 out of the box of twenty. I really like Cabela's, where I bought it for $3.99 and I'm not gonna return it because it was so cheap, but I'll never buy any more and will warn others to keep their eyes open.

Wow, thanks for the photo, never seen anything like that before.

I'll continue to 100% avoid cheapo commie steel ammo now and into the future...

My Spikes loves it.  About 1,000 down range and not a single issue.  Decent accuracy to boot.

Is this the ammo that comes in the white box with a stylized bulls-eye and says "made in Russia" on the bottom corner?
I bought a case of it from Cabelas and have so far fired about 200 rds from my D-T with zero problems.

Have a approx 250 rounds thru my Stag with no issues.  I run my gun fairly wet. YMMV

1 moa I bet

1,000 rounds through my rifle.   2 cases stuck and that's it.  I don't know why many people have problems but I will continue to use Tula!

I've got 4500 rounds through my Spike's with only 4 FTF's. All 4 were from a dirty gun and not the ammo's fault. IMHO...........GTG, just keep your weapon clean and wet.

Not to argue with you, but I have bought Winchester Q3131 that had case problems.  One box had TWO rounds without rims, one somewhat like your picture, the other had "all groove" and no lip.  Any maker can have a few QC problems.  Unfortunately it looks like the Tula plant has the bar set pretty low and still has problems.

Try 0.5 MOA at 500 yards, with iron sights, at night, in gale force winds, moving targets.  

No, not 1 MOA by any means.  Decent for me means 3" groups at 50 yards with iron sights.  I'm sure the ammo is capable of better, but sadly, I am not.  

Group size was OK, Wolf-like in nature, until I started getting squib loads.  It sticks in the chamber.  I took the upper off the lower and bolt out.  I cleaned and mopped the chamber, dropped several different brands in the chamber the dumped them out easy.  When I dropped the tula in it stuck and I had to use the cleaning rod to push it out.

After the squib loads I had to pound a dowel hard to get the case out.  Bullet was shot clear.

I don't mind cheap ammo to blast as long as it functions.  This doesn't.

My guns short stroke with that ammo

I hope this isn't thread necro....
"My guns short stroke with that ammo"
-Anyone else experience this symptom? Is it because the ammo is loaded a little softer than the conventional 5.56 loadings? First time I used this in my gun, I seemed to have short stroking issues too. Round would fire, eject, but not seem to drive the bolt back enough to strip the next round off the mag. It seemed to get a little better as I shot it, but it seemed to pull this sort of behavior for the first ten rounds out of 2 mags. The gun was new at the time. I know this might also be mag related, and I need to test some more. It could also have been buffer related, as I was running the Spike's heavy buffer with it. This is the first time I have experienced problems with steel cased ammo in any gun, but also my first AR, and using steel cased rifle ammo in a semi auto format (shot a ton of Wolf and *Bear in a CZ82 when I still owned it).

I have also read that while the steel alloy is soft, and should not cause any problems to really worry about as far as wear and tear...the case also doesn't expand as well as brass does...which I am guessing causes some gas blow-by, which could cause the short stroking symptom? Pretty sure that the problem does not lie in the quality of the upper, as Spike's seems to make good stuff over all (though anyone can slip up).

I have a couple hundred rounds of this stuff left (most picked up after my first shooting session... when you have no ammo, any ammo is good... and couldn't complain about the price), and it would be annoying if it was all this way. I guess I have to get out and shoot more to see if changing my buffer out (have a spare, lighter weight) helped out any. I just figured I would ask because there seems to be others experiencing similar issues with this particular type of ammo. Any information is good, when you aren't quite so sure what you are dealing with. If all the Tula I have is iffy, but my brass cased M193, M855, and Hot Shot 5.56 works well, I guess I'll just have to avoid Tula. That would be a shame, as the price is nice.

Got some from cabelas.  It runs fine  in my DPMS M4ger as well as my dad's DPMS and my wife's CMMG Bargain Bin M4. Shoots minute of dead. I hit a half IDPA size steel target at 200yds in a 3-Gun last month with it.

Ran fine every time I've shot it.