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Posted: 9/3/2008 2:34:21 PM EST
Question does the Tubb carrier weight system work? Also do you know if the stainless weight or tungsten insert works the best?

I am think about putting one in my AP4 dpms 308.

Link Posted: 9/3/2008 3:04:25 PM EST
Adding mass is a great idea, reduces felt recoil and will probably make the weapon last longer. CWS is not the best way to do it.

Just put some tungsten weights in the buffer. Same result, less cost, and a lot easier to deal with. The CWS you have to pop both push pins and ease the upper forward even to disassemble.

I have not taken apart a carbine buffer in 308, but I added 3 tungsten weights to my DPMS 308 rifle buffer and never looked back. You can borrow the weights from an H3 buffer or such. Swap the steel weights for tungsten weights. Each weight you swap adds about an ounce to the recoil system weight. You can try many combinations.

Here is what a buffer looks like on the inside and you'll get the idea:

Link Posted: 9/3/2008 3:30:30 PM EST
The new CWS from Tubbs works just fine in the LR series. You don't have to pull both pins to disassemble anymore, the flange on the carrier insert is chamfered.
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 4:18:55 PM EST
I've done a bunch of work on LR308's, including several 16" versions. The DPMS carbine buffer is already toting 2 tungsten weights. Although Cav_sct is right about the use of standard tungsten weights to accomplish the goal, the DPMS carbine buffer only has 2. The only way to make the stock DPMS carbine buffer heavier is to add depleted uranium ingots

I found the best way to deal with the overgassed systems or reduce the recoil pulse on the rifles I worked on is to install an adjustable gas block. I've used JP's on several and really like them. On the 16 inch barrels you want to use the stainless JP model. It will erode less quickly than the aluminum one on a short/carbine/high pressure gas system.

I have also used the Tubbs on LR308's, and if the rifle isn't too overgassed, it works just fine to reduce the cycle velocity. The latest version will close on with the pivot pin in as bushwack noted - it took a little wiggling, but will go.

Honestly, I think the best approach is to decrease the weight of the reciprocating asembly (carrier, buffer, etc) and use an adjustable gas block. The stock assembly is a lot of mass moving back and forth and adds a lot to the recoil. To illustrate... I recently installed a custom made muzzle brake on mine. With the gas system in use, it reduced the recoil to a mild 30-30 or 7.62x39 recoil. With the gas system shut off (I used a JP on mine too), it "recoils" like a mild 223, and I mean that literally. The bulk of the "recoil" on mine is now caused from that huge carrier cycling.
Link Posted: 9/3/2008 6:58:06 PM EST
watson, that's some good information. Have you found anything other than the JP adjustable gas block, maybe the MGI adjustable gas tube? The reason I ask & this is only my opinion. I think the JP gas block is ugly! I know it's silly, but I'll have a hard time putting one of those on my rifle. I know Randall used to offer one with the Pic rail machined off & it looked better, but still ugly. Is the rifle length tube the same length as the AR15 tube?
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