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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 11/3/2002 11:23:42 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/3/2002 11:44:17 AM EST by LarryLove]
I'm trying to install my trigger guard and getting the roll pin in is a HUGE pain. There's got to be a better way than pounding the crap out of it. I'm afraid I'm going to break the receiver.

After an insane amount of pounding, I got it *almost" all the way in, but it would budge no further. So I pounded the crap out of it to get it out, crimped the pin, sanded the pin with course sandpaper, reamed the inside of the trigger guard hole with course sandpaper. I gave it another shot and it made absolutely no difference. It's jammed in there now and I don't have the energy to beat on that thing any more right now. So that brings me here for advice.

Should it be this much of a pain? Any suggestions from the group on how to make this work? Receiver is RRA, trigger guard and parts came from a DPMS lower rec parts kit. Thanks.
Link Posted: 11/3/2002 11:56:25 AM EST
Put the pin in the freezer for a few hours and heat the lower with a hair dryer or heat gun. I had this work for me before. HTH
Link Posted: 11/3/2002 1:50:31 PM EST
j3_ gave the answer - probably wasn't aligned. CLP the pin and hole too before starting.

Make darned sure you don't break those trigger guard ears!

Good luck!
Link Posted: 11/3/2002 2:16:31 PM EST
I've had the same problem with a few trigger guard installs my self. The couple i did that were tight like that gave me trouble. I ended up reaming out the hole in the trigger guard ever so gently and got a fit that didn't require pounding the crap out of the rifle. remember to ream out the hole in the trigger guard itself and not the holes for the pin located in the lower receiver.
Link Posted: 11/3/2002 5:09:23 PM EST
I agree with Tate...
Be very carefull not to break the receiver ears.

I'd start with a fresh pin from the other side.
Link Posted: 11/3/2002 6:26:25 PM EST
Thanks for the advice. I've got a couple more pins on the way now, and I'm going to ream out the hole a bit more than I already have.
Link Posted: 11/4/2002 8:25:29 AM EST
Be sure and backup the far side with something hard like a block of steel or aluminum while tapping the pin into place this will minimize the likehood of breaking off the lug(s). I have broken one before. Bad feeling when that happens!

I use either a good "C" clamp or my vise and push the pin into place rather than pounding on it. This seems to give better control of the process.

J3's suggestion about squeezing the leading end of the roll pin closed works good too.
Link Posted: 11/4/2002 9:50:41 AM EST

Originally Posted By j3_:
I close the pin up that goes on the trigger guard with a pair of pliers, all but a small part at one end.

This always worked for me plus a bit of sanding on the pin itself and a bit of 3 in 1 oil. Remember to tap it very lightly.

Good luck

Link Posted: 11/4/2002 10:26:33 AM EST
A lot of the roll pins on newer kits are easily .010 oversize. You want more like .004. I just put the pin in a hand drill and put a file to it (you obviously have to do both ends). Measure it frequently with a pair of calipers. The hole is 1/8 or .125. When you're about .130, its good to go.
Link Posted: 11/15/2002 11:07:42 PM EST
Many times it helps to grind a bevel on the end of the roll pin.

Put a little grease in the hole and on the pin.

PRESS the pin in with Vise Grips. To prevent scratching the RX, wrap a few layers of electrical tape on the jaws of the pliers.

When you get the pin almost all the way in, stop, and tap it the rest of the way with a punch and hammer.
Link Posted: 11/15/2002 11:21:24 PM EST
I used a C clamp as well and it worked great. Just make sure the pin is aligned properly before you tighten the clamp. I also put a piece of leather over the pin so the finish wouldn't be scraped off.
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