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Posted: 2/12/2017 6:54:18 PM EDT
[#1]
more heat...probably has red loctite on it. If they are stripped out to badly use an easy out and youll get em.
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Posted: 2/12/2017 7:09:13 PM EDT
[#2]
I gave it a lot of heat, ordered an easy out but more input would be appreciated.
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Posted: 2/12/2017 9:17:23 PM EDT
[#3]
Impact is your friend. Not necessarily an impact wrench, but you can hit your conventional wrenches with a hammer, or something similar. The jarring action works wonders. Coupling this with heat does even better.
Also, I've noticed over the years that the typical L-shaped allen wrenches, and the fold-up sets have too much flex in them, and are often made of too soft material to stand up to normal use. They usually end up rounding off, destroying both the wrench and the fastener. My best solution has been to get good quality Allen sockets. They work great on many applications and don't tend to strip fasteners the way that key sets and the like did. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 11:37:15 PM EDT
[#4]
Removed the gas block on my BCM yesterday, they do use red loctite and they are well-torqued. Used a torch until the loctite started to drip, then used sharp allens. One cup screw came out pretty easily but the other took a little more heat. Once the screws are out you can give it a little wiggle with some wrapped vice grips and tap it off with a delrin mallet.
ETA: They use 10-32 x 3/16 Knurled Cup Point set screws. Allens worked for us. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 11:48:38 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removed the gas block on my BCM yesterday, they do use red loctite and they are well-torqued. Used a torch until the loctite started to drip, then used sharp allens. One cup screw came out pretty easily but the other took a little more heat. Once the screws are out you can give it a little wiggle with some wrapped vice grips and tap it off with a delrin mallet. ETA: They use 10-32 x 3/16 Knurled Cup Point set screws. Allens worked for us. Which exact Allen size? |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 8:41:15 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which exact Allen size? Morning bump. |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 9:44:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I gave it a lot of heat, ordered an easy out but more input would be appreciated. I have broken red loctite loose by putting it in the deep freeze for a day and then hitting it hard with a hammer and punch. When red loctite gets cold enough it gets brittle. |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 12:55:28 PM EDT
[#8]
A lot of folks talk about cutting these off, where would you cut?
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Posted: 2/13/2017 5:30:01 PM EDT
[#9]
If it were me, I'd cut on both the left and ride sides so the bottom will just fall off, and the top can be pulled forward and then off.
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Posted: 2/13/2017 6:10:35 PM EDT
[#10]
Best guess was 7/32, but nobody remembers specifically. Drinking was involved.
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Posted: 2/13/2017 6:41:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A lot of folks talk about cutting these off, where would you cut? I was told by BCM you need MAP Gas, a normal heat gun won't do it. Get that, hold for a couple minutes and they came out of the gas block like butter. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 3:25:27 AM EDT
[#12]
I have removed several bcm blocks. A regular
propane torch is all you need. Apply heat for 30 seconds or so, wait a minute for loctite to liquefy good, and remove. Make sure you have good hex key/allen wrench. I think I used a 3/32. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 7:19:04 AM EDT
[#13]
I recently had a gunsmith remove my BCM installed barrel and gas block. The gas block is basically destroyed. He told me he had to use a ton of heat to remove the barrel and gas block. BCM is ridiculous with their installs
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Posted: 2/14/2017 10:46:04 AM EDT
[#14]
No luck so far. I'm doing this in order to install an adjustable gas block to correct issues whilst shooting suppressed. I've already ran the gamut of different buffer weights, but a friend recommend changing out the extractor and/or bolt and seeing if that corrects the problem.
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Posted: 2/14/2017 4:14:54 PM EDT
[#15]
Tier 1 bullshit they assemble uppers like that. I've seen 'em torque barrel nuts so tight they cracked the upper trying to break 'em loose.
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Posted: 2/14/2017 4:19:09 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tier 1 bullshit they assemble uppers like that. I've seen 'em torque barrel nuts so tight they cracked the upper trying to break 'em loose. I love the upper and trust BCM but this seems excessive (the gas block). |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 6:37:40 PM EDT
[#17]
3/32 hex key
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Posted: 2/14/2017 6:42:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I love the upper and trust BCM but this seems excessive (the gas block). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Tier 1 bullshit they assemble uppers like that. I've seen 'em torque barrel nuts so tight they cracked the upper trying to break 'em loose. I love the upper and trust BCM but this seems excessive (the gas block). I have a simple policy with BCM uppers. They are what they are and I sell them before trying to modify them after hearing the horror stories. OP: You could give a LMT Enhanced Carrier (just the carrier) a shot as it fixed my suppressed issues with my over gassed 12.5" DD barrel. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 7:03:41 PM EDT
[#19]
BCM builds their shit to survive combat...and NOT fall apart in your hands. Imagine that, a company that cares you have a superior product...and you bitch about it.
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Posted: 2/14/2017 7:11:34 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
BCM builds their shit to survive combat...and NOT fall apart in your hands. Imagine that, a company that cares you have a superior product...and you bitch about it. Horseshit. A gas block is covered by the rail. Coating every faying surface with red Lock-Tite and then torquing the knurled screws into a dimpled barrel is fuckin' idiotic. Not to mention their sledge-hammer taper pin installations. Everyone falls all over themselves for BCM, but if they glue and torque and beat everything together to the point that disassembly could ruin parts, then their a shit builder IMO. I do like their t-shirts and hats though. 
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Posted: 2/14/2017 7:49:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Sounds like it's time to dremel it. Mask off the barrel really well and start cutting slowly across the bottom. A small cut may be all it takes for it loosen up or use a screwdriver/chisel to break the cut.
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Posted: 2/14/2017 8:18:07 PM EDT
[#22]
I had the same experience when I bought a URX2 equipped upper from someone and I had to replace the gas block before I sent the upper back to them.
It was easier to pull that URX2 Rifle handguard than it was getting the gas block off. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 8:55:40 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Horseshit. A gas block is covered by the rail. Coating every faying surface with red Lock-Tite and then torquing the knurled screws into a dimpled barrel is fuckin' idiotic. Not to mention their sledge-hammer taper pin installations. Everyone falls all over themselves for BCM, but if they glue and torque and beat everything together to the point that disassembly could ruin parts, then their a shit builder IMO. I do like their t-shirts and hats though. Have you personally seen what field conditions and privates can do to equipment? I have for many years....I'll take the "overbuilt" AR for 1,000 Alex! |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 9:16:32 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you personally seen what field conditions and privates can do to equipment? I have for many years....I'll take the "overbuilt" AR for 1,000 Alex! I agree 100%. My guys can tear up a brick. I'll take overbuilt everyday. Hell, I even pin the blocks on my BCM uppers. Leave zero to chance. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 9:25:49 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you personally seen what field conditions and privates can do to equipment? I have for many years....I'll take the "overbuilt" AR for 1,000 Alex! Except we don't use BCM. So I'm not sure what your point is. I have no problem working on colt or FN rifles at work. Yet BCM rifles tend to break rather than come apart when we work on them. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 10:36:23 PM EDT
[#26]
I guess all this also leads me to ask....why in the hell are you guys "taking down" your BCM rifles? You surely didn't shoot enough to wear out a steel gas block, or burn through the gas tube....probably just want the new flavor of the month rail on it is all.....BCM ensured that your shit was GTG from their facility, why arbitrarily change it out....not to mention what you paid for said BCM upper!
IDK I guess I don't get it, and we will have to agree to disagree on BCM. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 10:49:22 PM EDT
[#27]
I stuck mine in the oven for 30 minutes and that worked for me. I think it was at 400. It's silly they do that, and I don't buy the made for combat crap either. If that was the worry then they would pin them which I think is also unnecessary.
Stop getting so defensive about BCM. People change rails for all kinds of reasons it's not necessarily a "trendy thing". I put a new rail on one last week so it would fit me better as a competition gun, it's not trendy just practical for that role. Needs change |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 12:41:14 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess all this also leads me to ask....why in the hell are you guys "taking down" your BCM rifles? You surely didn't shoot enough to wear out a steel gas block, or burn through the gas tube....probably just want the new flavor of the month rail on it is all.....BCM ensured that your shit was GTG from their facility, why arbitrarily change it out....not to mention what you paid for said BCM upper! IDK I guess I don't get it, and we will have to agree to disagree on BCM. When someone brings you a flimsy magnesium hand guard that's bent, you gotta take the upper apart to replace it. I've disassembled many Colt uppers and you'll have a few with tight barrel nuts. I've disassembled a few BCM uppers that they sell without hand guards, and ended up cutting the barrel nut off of two to avoid tearing up the receiver. Torque specs and lube specs exist for a reason. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 9:14:52 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
BCM builds their shit to survive combat...and NOT fall apart in your hands. Imagine that, a company that cares you have a superior product...and you bitch about it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
BCM builds their shit to survive combat...and NOT fall apart in your hands. Imagine that, a company that cares you have a superior product...and you bitch about it. FIVE posts above yours. FIVE. I'll quote myself again so that you don't have to scroll up or click: Quoted:
No luck so far. I'm doing this in order to install an adjustable gas block to correct issues whilst shooting suppressed. I've already ran the gamut of different buffer weights, but a friend recommend changing out the extractor and/or bolt and seeing if that corrects the problem. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 10:54:49 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it were me, I'd cut on both the left and ride sides so the bottom will just fall off, and the top can be pulled forward and then off. this is what i did with a f-marked fsb that had a taper pin that wouldn't come out. unfortunately i went a little nuts with the dremel and left a few marks on the barrel. be careful if you go that route. whichever gorilla assembled my spikes upper also went apeshit with the torque wrench on the flash hider and barrel nut. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 11:03:35 AM EDT
[#31]
I've removed 3 bcm gas blocks.
Heat, heat, hammer, heat, glove, Allen wrench. Repeat as needed. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 11:11:33 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've removed 3 bcm gas blocks. Heat, heat, hammer, heat, glove, Allen wrench. Repeat as needed. I'm going through Allen wrenches at a pretty fast clip 
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Posted: 2/15/2017 11:14:34 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm going through Allen wrenches at a pretty fast clip More heat, it should drip out. Make sure the screws are on the bottom or else the loctite will melt around the barrel and block. Don't ask how I know. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 11:52:55 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
More heat, it should drip out. Make sure the screws are on the bottom or else the loctite will melt around the barrel and block. Don't ask how I know. Thanks, man. Appreciate the help. I'll keep this thread updated. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 11:56:56 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks, man. Appreciate the help. I'll keep this thread updated. I've heard of people using a soldering iron directly on the set screws as well. I just use a torch and cuss at it a lot. It'll come off eventually. |
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