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Posted: 8/29/2004 3:08:18 PM EST
I have Googled extensively for hours now trying to find DETAILED instructions on how to silver solder a muzzle device. The closest thing I have found to instructions is on the Maryland AR15 site, yet even that's not good enough. I want to make sure I do this right, and you would think that there would be more information on the internet on this subject.

Can anybody provide a link to a site with detailed instructions?
Link Posted: 8/29/2004 3:17:18 PM EST
Why bother. In two weeks you can just screw it on without worrying about permanently attaching it.
Link Posted: 8/29/2004 3:29:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/29/2004 3:33:39 PM EST by omar]
All I've done is take a wire brush to the threads and apply Brownell's 1200 degree Janet Reno silver solder to them. Screw on and index the brake to the barrel by laying a cleaning rod across the brake and the upper receiver flats and check their parallel alignment. Mount the rifle in a vise and point the muzzle down, so solder doesn't flow into the barrel. Heat with Mapp gas until cherry red, then don't touch it for a while. You'll need Mapp gas to get it hot enough, available at any hardware store.




Here are the rest of the pics of an FAL assembly
photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/ThumbnailView.asp?iGalleryUnq=1368
Link Posted: 8/29/2004 3:45:02 PM EST

Originally Posted By Russ4777:
Why bother. In two weeks you can just screw it on without worrying about permanently attaching it.



NFA compliance. The barrel is too short.
Link Posted: 8/29/2004 4:12:59 PM EST
What you need is low temperature silver solder. You don't need to get the metal red hot, just hot enough to get the solder to flow and bond. You also need a good flux. You can wet the portion you want soldered. Apply flux, then heat and then the solder. Use a solder brush to whisk off the excess solder. Join the two parts and apply heat. When the metal reaches the correct temp, the solder will flow.This is called "sweating a joint. Or flux and apply heat. when metal is at correct heat the solder will flow into the joint by capillary action. Try you technique on some scrap metal until you get the hang of it. It really is quite easy. YOu can get the correct solder and flux at Brownell's. What you don't want to do is overheat the metal and burn the flux. The purpose of the flux is to keep the surface of the metal from oxidizing and preventing a good joint. You only need a propane torch to do this. I've silver soldered many things with just a propane torch. Hope this helps.
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