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Posted: 10/2/2004 8:38:52 AM EDT
Hoping to get a bit of an education on the difference between "single-stage" versus "two-stage" aftermarket replacement triggers/trigger groups for my Post-Ban Colt Sporter HBAR. My understanding of a "two-stage" trigger is that you have a smooth, consistent pull before the trigger hits "a wall". Then you must apply just a fraction of an ounce more pull to get the hammer to fall. In reading some other forums, I've heard some people describe the moment the hammer falls as "breaking a glass rod"; it's so crisp and clean. Is my understanding correct?

I'd like to replace the crappy Colt stock trigger with something that has a decent pull weight and minimize or eliminate the L-O-N-G and rough pull I have now. Is it realistic to expect to pay around $200 to get something decent that I can "plug and play" or will I need a gunsmith to install and fit?

My uses are for plinking, target shooting, harassing coyotes and destroying bottles of Heinz Ketchup.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Al in Iowa
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 9:32:19 AM EDT
Look at the Jewell... Nice two stage trigger, and full adjustable.
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 12:56:30 PM EDT
If your rifle is a Colt, and you want to stay with drop in Colt parts, call Tina at http://www.sawlesales.com/ and talk to her about a trigger from Colts only match grade rifle trigger, the model CR6724. I have one in my model 6920 and 6700 and it was a great improvement. Seems it was just over $100. "A Certified Armoror should always do the install'.
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 4:46:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/2/2004 8:07:37 PM EDT by K2QB3]
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 4:59:48 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 5:48:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/2/2004 5:49:25 PM EDT by rebel_rifle]

Originally Posted By K2QB3:
If you've got access to a good smith let him work your stock parts over. The sear engagement on most ARs is insane, a good smith can get rid of most of the creep, all the roughness and lighten the pull up quite a bit in just a few minutes.

You can probably do it yourself, just do a thorough function check and make sure the disconnector is functioning properly, sometimes by the time you get the trigger just so the disconnector needs a little work to get it where it should be.

A new hammer is a lot cheaper than a $200 drop in.

I find if I go slow and keep checking when the hammer stops moving backwards when the trigger is pulled it's perfect.

hope this helps.

Having your average gunsmith work over the stock parts can be very tricky. As with most triggers, stoning is the accepted method. However, with the AR the hardness is very thin on the trigger and sear surfaces and the stoning will go through the hardened parts fairly easily. When that happens, you will have an unsafe and probably full auto trigger. This presents certain safety and legal problems, if you know what I mean. Polishing is all that should be done to the stock trigger surfaces. As the trigger is designed, there is only so much you can do with it to lighten it and crisp it up. This is the way it is designed, it was meant as a battle trigger not a target trigger.

All that being said, you do NOT have to spend $200 for a safe, crisp and lighter trigger. A Rock River two stage can be had for as little as $75 to $85 or so. Even the Jewell can be had for $175 or less especially if you find a used one. I bought one for as little as $125.
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 6:48:43 PM EDT
Thanks much for the help. Think I'll do a little shopping around for a drop-in unit I can do myself; I have no idea of where to find a QUALIFIED gunsmith who knows what they are doing on an AR trigger!

Link Posted: 10/2/2004 7:04:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/2/2004 8:07:16 PM EDT by K2QB3]
Edited, dont want to give anyone bad advice. Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/2/2004 7:51:22 PM EDT

Originally Posted By K2QB3:

I agree everyone should be very careful messing around with something they're unfamiliar with, but I don't understand what surface hardening has to do with anything in this context.


I believe he is refering to when the surface hardened metal is filed away, the exposed untreated metal is soft and more brittle. And it will wear quickly with lots of rounds and end up as a unsafe trigger group due to the tolerances now increasing between the trigger and hammer engagement surfaces.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 12:10:05 PM EDT

Originally Posted By AlbertoV05:
Thanks much for the help. Think I'll do a little shopping around for a drop-in unit I can do myself; I have no idea of where to find a QUALIFIED gunsmith who knows what they are doing on an AR trigger!



He is as QUALIFIED as it gets. You will not be dissappointed.
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