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Link Posted: 9/15/2009 6:39:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/15/2009 6:40:19 PM EST by septic-tank13]
Originally Posted By 40xb-shooter:
Originally Posted By septic-tank13:
Originally Posted By 40xb-shooter:
Do you have any suggestion on what trigger to use on a 9mm ar15?


the entire premise of this series of tests is to avoid the "best" trigger myths and shed light on them so you may decide.  assuming your 9mm is for carbine/fun/plinking, i'd imagine a two stage unit would be the ticket.  any of the NM genre triggers would work fine.  keep in mind i've never tested a 9mm AR, so if the hammer has special requirements i can't directly provide feedback.  apparently i should consider adding a 9mm to my collection so i can try one first hand.  i may just do that...

i'd much prefer a two stage trigger of smooth operation for this application in the way i'd choose to use the rig.  that may not work for you, but without knowing all the particulars you have to start somewhere...

i hope this helps.


Yeah it is for plinking and for shooting cheaper at classes in a sense. It does require a specific hammer requirements but I was thinking to try and see if I could piece one together to see if it works. Or putting a standard trigger in and see what happens. I mean it will either fire or not.

I enjoyed building my 9mm rifle. It still needs a little cosmetic work but it is functional and technically completed. Plus it is cheaper to shoot compared to .223/.308 and it has stopping power which a 22 lr does not.


the contact surfaces and the geometry with many of these triggers are specific in relationship with the hammer and trigger.  a set in fact...  a hammer from an armalite NM set won't work with a trigger from the RRA set as an example.  i'm on familiar with what needs to be modified to run the 9mm, but for some reason i was thinking you could use either a select fire hammer and mod it, or bobbing a mil spec group in some fashion.  you're going to have to hit the 9mm/variant section for this i bet.  maybe they can help you better.
Link Posted: 9/20/2009 3:17:31 AM EST
I think that I am going with the Geissele DMR trigger for my accuracy/hunting build. Still haven't settled on a caliber yet but have everything else minus the trigger, bolt and barrel. Now just to save the $279 for the trigger. Wow, kind pricey but I intend to have the weapon for a life time so hopefully its worth it.
Link Posted: 10/3/2009 10:14:53 PM EST
Thanks for the great info. This board has been a great help to an old shooter who is new to AR ownership.

I just 'pulled the trigger' on an order for an Alexander Arms trigger. I'll post when I get it installed and tested.
Link Posted: 11/20/2009 9:22:58 PM EST
Great information, as a Noob it really opened my eyes to Trigger Groups, Thanks!
Link Posted: 11/28/2009 8:36:59 PM EST
Great write up !!  But you forgot what I think is the best trigger JARD   And thanks for all the time you put into the study.
Link Posted: 12/6/2009 8:23:52 AM EST
Come-on-man!  What's your results on the Gold trigger!
Link Posted: 12/6/2009 8:42:24 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/7/2009 5:37:00 PM EST
Yesterday I installed a component trigger from JP Rifles. I really thought I had bitten off more than I could chew when the instructions started talking about timing the disconnector, but it went really well. It took me all afternoon, but I am a real newby to AR rifles. I kind of approached it like a nudist crossing a barbed wire fence.
Anyway, all is well and I have a really nice trigger that breaks at 3.25lbs. Thanks for all the information.
Link Posted: 12/19/2009 7:52:25 PM EST
Will the Timney AR10 trigger fit an AR15? Are the dimmensions the same? At the beginning of this post I thought I read where you could use one for use with military surplus 5.56 to asure primer ignition. Thanks for a great article.
Link Posted: 12/20/2009 8:33:02 PM EST
Originally Posted By jferrell54:
Will the Timney AR10 trigger fit an AR15? Are the dimmensions the same? At the beginning of this post I thought I read where you could use one for use with military surplus 5.56 to asure primer ignition. Thanks for a great article.


yes, it will fit.  same fire control group, different spring weight and different mass hammer.  i'm told the newest generation ar15 units are having no primer strike issues, but i can't speak to what a 'generation' is or when the changes in production did, in fact, occur.

Link Posted: 12/21/2009 8:51:09 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/21/2009 8:51:52 PM EST by jferrell54]
Originally Posted By septic-tank13:
Originally Posted By jferrell54:
Will the Timney AR10 trigger fit an AR15? Are the dimmensions the same? At the beginning of this post I thought I read where you could use one for use with military surplus 5.56 to asure primer ignition. Thanks for a great article.


yes, it will fit.  same fire control group, different spring weight and different mass hammer.  i'm told the newest generation ar15 units are having no primer strike issues, but i can't speak to what a 'generation' is or when the changes in production did, in fact, occur.


Thanks for the reply. I looked at the Timney AR10 trigger and noticed it kinda looks like the Wilson Combat TTU or vice-versa. Again thanks for a great report.

Link Posted: 2/11/2010 2:31:01 PM EST
Originally Posted By sqs:
Yesterday I installed a component trigger from JP Rifles. I really thought I had bitten off more than I could chew when the instructions started talking about timing the disconnector, but it went really well. It took me all afternoon, but I am a real newby to AR rifles. I kind of approached it like a nudist crossing a barbed wire fence.Anyway, all is well and I have a really nice trigger that breaks at 3.25lbs. Thanks for all the information.


LOL, never heard that one before, had me crackin up pretty good, thanks.

+1 on the JARD being a great trigger. Like others it takes a little while to adjust, and you have to extend the threads on your lower through the hole the pistol grip attaches to, but that's not too bad.
Link Posted: 2/21/2010 7:14:14 PM EST
Got my DPMS parts kit trigger back from Bill Springfield.  Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but from what I have heard it will be nice.  I got the 4 lb, but he offers a 3lb.  $35.
Link Posted: 3/7/2010 10:47:23 PM EST
I'm using my Jard 2# trigger as a double duty trigger in my Bushmaster and then with the 50 BMG Bohica upper.  Works like a champ.
Link Posted: 3/30/2010 10:27:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/30/2010 10:29:43 PM EST by Lung]
try this before you buy that 200 trigger. Removes all the take up and makes your standard trigger better. Be sure to watch the vid responses.

LINKY
Link Posted: 3/31/2010 7:32:28 AM EST
Originally Posted By Lung:
try this before you buy that 200 trigger. Removes all the take up and makes your standard trigger better. Be sure to watch the vid responses.

LINKY


this thread has a primary purpose.  it is to help give perspetive on choices available and to bring new product to market light.  while the vid linked in your post is an option, it should be discussed a bit too.

bending the hammer springs or trigger springs lowers the weight.  there is no free lunch.  you'll possibly experience problems with arsenal primers, as the necessary weight and energy needed to det primers has now been lessened.  lowering the trigger spring weight via bending isn't all that bad.  using this method on the hammer springs is generally unwise.  also, working in an effort to 'round' the sear is total disinformation.  this IS NOT what any of you want, regardless of what you may think.  that surface needs to break clean, not roll off...  anything other than clean breaking surfaces are a breeding ground for an unsafe weapon.  also, a bit of oil and grease won't burnish a hardened sear surface.  again, misinformation.  that gentleman would be nearly 100 years old if he spent an hour a day working his trigger while watching the tube hoping to break it in by tugging on it with grease or oil...

while i have to admit, this vid provides us all with an option, i'd consider it an example of what not to do.  we seek to further good and safe information in threads like this, not further unsafe practices and/or foolishness.  i'm being as kind as i can possibly be with my sentiment here.  


Link Posted: 3/31/2010 3:20:46 PM EST
Originally Posted By septic-tank13:
Originally Posted By Lung:
try this before you buy that 200 trigger. Removes all the take up and makes your standard trigger better. Be sure to watch the vid responses.

LINKY


this thread has a primary purpose.  it is to help give perspetive on choices available and to bring new product to market light.  while the vid linked in your post is an option, it should be discussed a bit too.

bending the hammer springs or trigger springs lowers the weight.  there is no free lunch.  you'll possibly experience problems with arsenal primers, as the necessary weight and energy needed to det primers has now been lessened.  lowering the trigger spring weight via bending isn't all that bad.  using this method on the hammer springs is generally unwise.  also, working in an effort to 'round' the sear is total disinformation.  this IS NOT what any of you want, regardless of what you may think.  that surface needs to break clean, not roll off...  anything other than clean breaking surfaces are a breeding ground for an unsafe weapon.  also, a bit of oil and grease won't burnish a hardened sear surface.  again, misinformation.  that gentleman would be nearly 100 years old if he spent an hour a day working his trigger while watching the tube hoping to break it in by tugging on it with grease or oil...

while i have to admit, this vid provides us all with an option, i'd consider it an example of what not to do.  we seek to further good and safe information in threads like this, not further unsafe practices and/or foolishness.  i'm being as kind as i can possibly be with my sentiment here.  





thanks for the info. I can see your view on lessening the force required to detonate a primer. Especially if one used magnum primers which are harder.Thanks again for the info. Im going to look more into a different trigger set up.
Link Posted: 5/21/2010 9:49:38 AM EST
Wow, good read.  Many thanks to the OP for all his hard work.

This might be a stupid question, but I'm building a LR308 and was wondering if I need to take extra precautions (when I replace the trigger) to be able to handle surplus ammo?  I know that it some of the earlier posts it had been said that the AR10 style triggers helped get added thump on the surplus .223 ammo, but do I need to be even more selective on trigger upgrades for surplus .308 primer ignition?

Thanks again for all the great info.
Link Posted: 5/21/2010 2:34:29 PM EST
what is the difference between the 'component trigger' and the 'drop in trigger'?
Link Posted: 5/21/2010 3:03:21 PM EST
I really prefer the standard Bushmaster trigger of all the ones Ive tried
Link Posted: 5/22/2010 6:42:22 AM EST
Originally Posted By Buckshot4U:
Wow, good read.  Many thanks to the OP for all his hard work.

This might be a stupid question, but I'm building a LR308 and was wondering if I need to take extra precautions (when I replace the trigger) to be able to handle surplus ammo?  I know that it some of the earlier posts it had been said that the AR10 style triggers helped get added thump on the surplus .223 ammo, but do I need to be even more selective on trigger upgrades for surplus .308 primer ignition?

Thanks again for all the great info.


we seek to make sure with 'arsenal' primers that we are able to create complete detonation.  considering the cups are generally a bit harder than some commercial primers, and sometimes moreso in large primers, we need to avoid skimping on the total mass.  thus, stiff springs, fast moving hammers, etc. all help with boosting the 'umph' that contacts the firing pin.  so, wimpy AR15 springs aren't a wise choice.  full power springs and/or avoiding any low weight hammer springs are a wise choice in any chambering that utilizes a large rifle primer.

specifically these "good ol' boy" trigger jobs where you snip off one half of the hammer spring or use the JP yellows will leave you with FTFs from time to time.  it isn't that these methods and parts don't have their place, but they don't happen to be wise in an AR10 or similar scenario.

Link Posted: 5/22/2010 6:44:14 AM EST
Originally Posted By Billmanweh:
what is the difference between the 'component trigger' and the 'drop in trigger'?


components are pieces - seperate springs, hammer, shoe, etc....  

drop in, as the pictures show, are 'encased' units and you simply lower the assembly into place and push in the fire control pins.

Link Posted: 5/25/2010 9:48:20 AM EST
Originally Posted By septic-tank13:
Originally Posted By Buckshot4U:
Wow, good read.  Many thanks to the OP for all his hard work.

This might be a stupid question, but I'm building a LR308 and was wondering if I need to take extra precautions (when I replace the trigger) to be able to handle surplus ammo?  I know that it some of the earlier posts it had been said that the AR10 style triggers helped get added thump on the surplus .223 ammo, but do I need to be even more selective on trigger upgrades for surplus .308 primer ignition?

Thanks again for all the great info.


we seek to make sure with 'arsenal' primers that we are able to create complete detonation.  considering the cups are generally a bit harder than some commercial primers, and sometimes moreso in large primers, we need to avoid skimping on the total mass.  thus, stiff springs, fast moving hammers, etc. all help with boosting the 'umph' that contacts the firing pin.  so, wimpy AR15 springs aren't a wise choice.  full power springs and/or avoiding any low weight hammer springs are a wise choice in any chambering that utilizes a large rifle primer.

specifically these "good ol' boy" trigger jobs where you snip off one half of the hammer spring or use the JP yellows will leave you with FTFs from time to time.  it isn't that these methods and parts don't have their place, but they don't happen to be wise in an AR10 or similar scenario.



So if I didn't neccessarily have an opinion between 2 stage/1 stage triggers, and wanted something that would have a heavy enough spring/fast enough hammer to detonate .308 surplus primer, which options would fit this bill?  Thanks for your help.
Link Posted: 5/25/2010 9:56:41 AM EST
Originally Posted By Buckshot4U:
Originally Posted By septic-tank13:
Originally Posted By Buckshot4U:
Wow, good read.  Many thanks to the OP for all his hard work.

This might be a stupid question, but I'm building a LR308 and was wondering if I need to take extra precautions (when I replace the trigger) to be able to handle surplus ammo?  I know that it some of the earlier posts it had been said that the AR10 style triggers helped get added thump on the surplus .223 ammo, but do I need to be even more selective on trigger upgrades for surplus .308 primer ignition?

Thanks again for all the great info.


we seek to make sure with 'arsenal' primers that we are able to create complete detonation.  considering the cups are generally a bit harder than some commercial primers, and sometimes moreso in large primers, we need to avoid skimping on the total mass.  thus, stiff springs, fast moving hammers, etc. all help with boosting the 'umph' that contacts the firing pin.  so, wimpy AR15 springs aren't a wise choice.  full power springs and/or avoiding any low weight hammer springs are a wise choice in any chambering that utilizes a large rifle primer.

specifically these "good ol' boy" trigger jobs where you snip off one half of the hammer spring or use the JP yellows will leave you with FTFs from time to time.  it isn't that these methods and parts don't have their place, but they don't happen to be wise in an AR10 or similar scenario.



So if I didn't neccessarily have an opinion between 2 stage/1 stage triggers, and wanted something that would have a heavy enough spring/fast enough hammer to detonate .308 surplus primer, which options would fit this bill?  Thanks for your help.


your budget being a non issue, any of the more expensive "national match" trigger will be great.  the geissele, accuracy speaks, alexander arms, armalite, etc.  the rra varmint trigger, jard, and anything using a jp yellow spring set won't cut it.  anything along those lines simply won't be reilable.

some of the drop ins will do well too.  timney and others now make "ar10" dedicated drop ins.  the cmc unit also uses an extra weight hammer spring, so it would work well mostly likely.  the AR gold unit, i'm not sure of...  i'm testing it now along with some others.  same with the shilen.  not sure it will have high enough mass consistently...  does this help?
Link Posted: 5/25/2010 3:58:10 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/25/2010 4:00:07 PM EST by Buckshot4U]
I think that answers my question.  Thanks for the clarification.

Link Posted: 10/30/2010 7:56:35 PM EST
ST,

Thanks for all the work, as additional input, I recently purchased the Wilson Combat TTU single stage trigger. Compared to the Chip McCormick single stage curved (which I've had in my AR ~3 years, and do like) the release is very crisp with very little reset distance. Similar to a good 1911 trigger. My new favorite.
Link Posted: 11/18/2010 1:14:19 PM EST
I echo the people who have thanked you for the the effort put into this. I found it very helpful.
I was wondering though what your advice would be as far as which type of trigger I should use for a combat ready weapon vs. a plinker or varminter. I like the feel of double-stage, but it seems that according to what you said I may run into primer striking reliability issues with lighter triggers depending on what type of ammo I'm using.
I am just building a basic AR-15 that will mostly be used for tactical training and self-defense, which realistically makes it mostly a range gun I guess. I want it to be accurate, but not at the cost of reliability. Should I stay away from 2-stage?

Also, I don't know if there is any general guidance you could give me or if this is strictly a case-by-case issue, but I would like to put a Tactical Solutions complete .22lr upper on it to hunt prairie dogs and squirrels and it seems like I may run into issues with compatibility.

Thoughts?
Link Posted: 11/20/2010 12:08:20 PM EST
Originally Posted By Defendor:
I echo the people who have thanked you for the the effort put into this. I found it very helpful.
I was wondering though what your advice would be as far as which type of trigger I should use for a combat ready weapon vs. a plinker or varminter. I like the feel of double-stage, but it seems that according to what you said I may run into primer striking reliability issues with lighter triggers depending on what type of ammo I'm using.
I am just building a basic AR-15 that will mostly be used for tactical training and self-defense, which realistically makes it mostly a range gun I guess. I want it to be accurate, but not at the cost of reliability. Should I stay away from 2-stage?

Also, I don't know if there is any general guidance you could give me or if this is strictly a case-by-case issue, but I would like to put a Tactical Solutions complete .22lr upper on it to hunt prairie dogs and squirrels and it seems like I may run into issues with compatibility.

Thoughts?


not at all.  there are many two stage triggers that are very reliable.  i'm simply saying that when i test weapons i can only impart so many variables before the testing becomes skewed...  so i use XM193 all the way across the board.  if you get light primer strikes with XM193 you may or may not get them with commercial ammo, your reloads etc.  supposedly the arsenal primers are more tough that commercial primers, and even though this would stand to reason i HAVE NOT tested that specifically to know.  however, i'm going to assume for now that they are since my reflections have leaned that way in regards to light hammer springs having intermitten problems with XM193 and the likes...

just be careful of the real cheap stuff.  there are reasons these all have a place in the market, but when you buy a "mil spec" LPK and through in JP yellow springs or snip half the hammer spring off with a pair of dikes you have made some pretty significant changes to the mass exerted upon the firing pin...  all you need to do is make sure, by asking them specifically, if the hammer springs are of FULL weight.  if they are, you can probably assume you'll get along ok in terms of ignition.  the rest is up to you.




Link Posted: 11/20/2010 12:12:05 PM EST
i only half answered your question i guess...  i made the assumption trigger pull and travel were second to reliability.  this would be my preference for what you describe.  however, that doesn't mean you can't have the best of both worlds.  guys like bill geissele and bill alexander are building first rate two stage units that actually have extra power hammer springs and managing to mess with the sear surface geometry to achieve a low pull weight.  there are many others out there doing the same.  just make sure you ask the proper questions.  full power springs or better?  check.  pull weight i want?  check.  reputable manufacturer?  check.  from there you can choose drop in modular units, component kits, etc.  there are no limits to the number of really great fire control groups available...  

hope this helps.

Originally Posted By Defendor:
I echo the people who have thanked you for the the effort put into this. I found it very helpful.
I was wondering though what your advice would be as far as which type of trigger I should use for a combat ready weapon vs. a plinker or varminter. I like the feel of double-stage, but it seems that according to what you said I may run into primer striking reliability issues with lighter triggers depending on what type of ammo I'm using.
I am just building a basic AR-15 that will mostly be used for tactical training and self-defense, which realistically makes it mostly a range gun I guess. I want it to be accurate, but not at the cost of reliability. Should I stay away from 2-stage?

Also, I don't know if there is any general guidance you could give me or if this is strictly a case-by-case issue, but I would like to put a Tactical Solutions complete .22lr upper on it to hunt prairie dogs and squirrels and it seems like I may run into issues with compatibility.

Thoughts?


Link Posted: 2/5/2011 3:28:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/5/2011 4:55:07 PM EST by warriorsociologist]
Excellent write up –– thank you!

I do have one nagging question for which I am hoping you (or someone here) can provide a succinct answer. Specifically, for a SDM-R/SPR-ish build where accuracy is paramount, but so too is the ability to lay down sustained and fairly rapid SA cover fire, what are the quantifiable advantages of going with a Geissele SD-E over a RRA 2-stage?

The two rigs I run with an eye to better than average accuracy (20” WOA "SAM-R" bbl + LT 12.0 + LT/R 4-14x; and a 16” WOA "Recce" bbl + LT 9.0 + Tac30) both currently wear tuned RRA 2-stage triggers I sourced from WOA about 6 years ago. I have been fairly happy with them, but then again the only other AR triggers I run in my other guns are stock CMT & LMT sets so I am not experienced in the wide world of higher-end triggers.

So again… How might (if at all) either an DMR/SPR or Recce type set-up measurably gain from switching from a RR 2-stage to a Geissele SD-E?  

Thanks in advance!  
Link Posted: 2/7/2011 8:22:48 PM EST
Originally Posted By warriorsociologist:
Excellent write up –– thank you!

I do have one nagging question for which I am hoping you (or someone here) can provide a succinct answer. Specifically, for a SDM-R/SPR-ish build where accuracy is paramount, but so too is the ability to lay down sustained and fairly rapid SA cover fire, what are the quantifiable advantages of going with a Geissele SD-E over a RRA 2-stage?

The two rigs I run with an eye to better than average accuracy (20” WOA "SAM-R" bbl + LT 12.0 + LT/R 4-14x; and a 16” WOA "Recce" bbl + LT 9.0 + Tac30) both currently wear tuned RRA 2-stage triggers I sourced from WOA about 6 years ago. I have been fairly happy with them, but then again the only other AR triggers I run in my other guns are stock CMT & LMT sets so I am not experienced in the wide world of higher-end triggers.

So again… How might (if at all) either an DMR/SPR or Recce type set-up measurably gain from switching from a RR 2-stage to a Geissele SD-E?  

Thanks in advance!  


having had routine light primer strikes with the RRA units, i'd ask myself if i were willing to pay more for the geissele and potentially avoid FTF issues.  if so, buy the geissele, otherwise RRA is fine.
Link Posted: 3/29/2011 3:42:55 PM EST
Great write up! I decided on the RRA 2 stage trigger because of the reviews and I got dealer cost on it which was under $100.
Link Posted: 4/6/2011 2:44:20 PM EST
Just got done installing the Rock River 2 stage on my S&W M&P 15. Took all of 10 minutes. Stock trigger pull was 8.5 lbs. Now with the RRA it's between 4.5 and 5 lbs.
Link Posted: 4/18/2011 6:35:34 PM EST
I guess I might need to start looking for a Geissele DMR trigger for my build up...Found it for around $279 on average.
Link Posted: 4/24/2011 8:26:14 AM EST
Tag

Thanks for the write up!
Eric
Link Posted: 11/2/2011 8:34:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/2/2011 8:34:48 PM EST by bujji]
Thanks for the writeup.
Installed RRA 2 Stage Trigger on my Stone Chimney built 24" Varmint model and am very happy with it.
Link Posted: 12/25/2011 6:37:07 PM EST
Maybe you can help me.I have a Class 07 FFL and I need instructions on "How to install a 3 Round Burst trigger" in a M16 lower that is fully legal and a Form 2 has been approved for the weapon.
I've played with a lot of triggers and I am not going to try to "Wing it" when I know someone out there has some written instructions on how to do this step by step. Got any ideas on where to look?

You can E-Mail me directly at "[email protected]"

Thanks,

glwbear
Link Posted: 12/27/2011 4:02:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/27/2011 6:08:34 PM EST by septic-tank13]
Originally Posted By glwbear:
Maybe you can help me.I have a Class 07 FFL and I need instructions on "How to install a 3 Round Burst trigger" in a M16 lower that is fully legal and a Form 2 has been approved for the weapon.
I've played with a lot of triggers and I am not going to try to "Wing it" when I know someone out there has some written instructions on how to do this step by step. Got any ideas on where to look?

You can E-Mail me directly at "[email protected]"

Thanks,

glwbear




Link Posted: 1/15/2012 9:45:48 AM EST
I know this post is old... however, has anyone had any experience or had the opportunity to check out AMERICAN SPIRIT ARMS, 4.5lb Single Stage Trigger ?ASA Trigger
Link Posted: 1/15/2012 1:44:16 PM EST
Originally Posted By Caruso83:
I know this post is old... however, has anyone had any experience or had the opportunity to check out AMERICAN SPIRIT ARMS, 4.5lb Single Stage Trigger ?ASA Trigger


nope.  would love to...

Link Posted: 2/4/2012 8:45:37 AM EST
I used to work in manufacturing AGL laser grade equipment and we used many different types of loctite-
Red is permanent wont get it out
Blue is removable made for 1/8 to 1/4 in screws approx
Purple was made for 1/8 inch screws approx
There was a Dark Green real thick loctite I dont remember the specs for as well, but was probably for heavy duty use of some kind
Intresting thing you dont see very often- there is a real thin green locktite that is a wicking version to put on after assembly.  

most assembly was on machined aluminum with some steel components.  

very clean (acetone or Triclorathane or Trichlorethelene (spelling probably wrong and one is not even available to public) were used to clean.  Acetone would be a good cleaner as well we used it some.  cleaning and degreaing will make it very difficult to get apart without heat, so you can imagine the bond––

I think I remember there was a loc-tite primer as well.

heat was recommended for removing without damaging threads

now all this was at least 15 years ago so some things are a little hazy but just a little info about loc-tite.  there are about 30 different types I am told or were at that time.

Thanks for all the great info guys I am about to build my first ar

loved the trigger writeup very informative
Link Posted: 2/17/2012 2:51:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/17/2012 7:46:55 PM EST by Sampsonite99]
That was a great write up on lots of trigers, though I know that was an old post; so does anyone have any experience with the Gieselle Super Dynamic 3 Gun trigger? Im about ready to upgrade my Mil-Spec trigger to something with a really smooth & short pull/stroke that can get some quick shots down range for close quarters use, yet still being able to set up a good distance shot (maybe 200-250yrds at most). I originally was plannning on the SSA-Enhanced version but after seeing some vids on youtube of some people shooing 10 shots in under two seconds with the Dynamc 3 Gun trigger, I think I'm hooked, the trigger reminds me of my earlier years running and gunning on saturdays playing some Paintball. Love that flat trigger. Thanks for the help
Link Posted: 2/18/2012 9:08:18 AM EST
timely post reply.  bill geissele, bill alexander, and a few others have sent me triggers in the last month and the dynamic was one of them.  be patient with me folks, it takes some time to be thorough and to run a bunch of ammo downrange in the efforts of being thorough.

i have the pact trigger, an LMT, the cmmg, a jewell, and a handful of others already done.
Link Posted: 2/18/2012 9:40:48 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/19/2012 9:30:08 AM EST
Originally Posted By Gatorhunt:

Originally Posted By septic-tank13:
timely post reply.  bill geissele, bill alexander, and a few others have sent me triggers in the last month and the dynamic was one of them.  be patient with me folks, it takes some time to be thorough and to run a bunch of ammo downrange in the efforts of being thorough.

i have the pact trigger, an LMT, the cmmg, a jewell, and a handful of others already done.

Thanks for all the work you do to bring us these great reviews, it's much appreciated.  


very much appreciated.  very much!

every now and again i stumble, fall, and manage to contribute something...  lol.

stay tuned...

Link Posted: 3/16/2012 6:10:18 PM EST
I've just installed the ALG Defense ACT trigger group. Very nice single-stage trigger...smooth and crisp. Much lighter than mil-spec with zero creep and grit...just pull and BOOM! Super easy install and nice quality and finish on parts. These triggers are the "budget line" from Geissele and sold by his wife's new company. For $65 you just can't beat it (from Rainier Arms). It's not like Geissele's top shelf stuff, but for an entry-level guy like me its perfect.
Link Posted: 4/13/2012 8:19:42 AM EST
[Last Edit: 4/18/2012 12:00:53 PM EST by losttrail]
Thanks for a great write-up. Thanks much for the time and effort.

I don't have a lot of experience beyond mil-spec and have just completed build a couple of AR's with mil-spec triggers.

A friend has two RRA ar's; one 5.56 and one 7.62, both with RRA two-stage triggers. He also has a Bushmaster with mil-spec trigger. To squeeze them side-by-side is enlightening.

I would like to start swapping out my mil-spec triggers, but at $120 each and with a couple more AR builds in front of me, it's kind of spendy.

Is there a less expensive alternative to the RRA two-stage that gets similar feel?

Jerry
Link Posted: 6/21/2012 8:12:46 PM EST
Link Posted: 6/23/2012 8:36:02 AM EST
Originally Posted By Tier_One_arms:
We carry the full line of Geissele triggers at tieronearms.com, but for $65 shipped (from us, haha) the ALG ACT trigger is a great start on a quest for an aftermarket trigger.


we've had this thread for over four years without somebody pimping themselves.  all good things come to an end i guess...  regardless, i'm unaware of the ALG ACT unit.  if you want to send one over we'll include it in the next round of tests.  we're done with them and the documentation is all that is unfinished, but i can put it through the paces if you get it here quickly.  

Link Posted: 7/13/2012 11:24:18 PM EST
Is there just a plain old skeletonized milspec trigger? I'm not to concerned with pull weight, as long is the trigger and hammer is mechanically accurate, reliable, and consistent. Any ideas in the below $100 range?
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