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11/20/2019 5:07:11 PM
Posted: 10/31/2006 9:57:51 AM EST
What's considered "best practice" when installing a muzzle device on a rifle where there isn't enough barrel "available" to put it in a barrel vise block? Just stick it in an upper block and torque away?

For the sake of argument, assume it's a 10.5 or 11.5" barrel with a carbine gas system and one piece forend, or something similar. You get the idea.
Link Posted: 10/31/2006 10:09:37 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/31/2006 10:11:03 AM EST by wildearp]
The block is all I have ever used. I don't like to use a tremendous amount of torque. If it is a crush washer and it doesn't index with 1/3 turn, I lap it down to get it that close and then torque. I also use Rocksett with crush or peel washer. You can't be too careful.
Link Posted: 10/31/2006 5:40:56 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/31/2006 5:41:56 PM EST by tangeant]
If you have a solid front sight base, hold the barrel by the front sight base in a vise using soft wood blocks.
Link Posted: 10/31/2006 6:17:22 PM EST

Originally Posted By tangeant:
If you have a solid front sight base, hold the barrel by the front sight base in a vise using soft wood blocks.


Nope, that won't do for this gun. I don't see an alternative to just putting it in an upper block, but I've always tried to avoid doing that since supposedly it can bend the indexing pin enough to cant the barrel. I suspect though that for the torque levels we're talking about, it'd be hard to bend that pin.
Link Posted: 10/31/2006 7:43:00 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/31/2006 7:44:50 PM EST by TaylorWSO]
If you cant get the tube on after the FS/MB get a new tube!!!

I had the same problem with a 14.5 midlenght. I took a block of plastic and cut it into 2"x2" squares, held it together with a C-clamp, and driled a hole in the middle-essentially I made a mini-barrel vice block. I also used a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper to add extra grip without maring the surface- Worked great for a vortex/crush washer.

The only other thing I can think is mill the barrel so you can use a wrench to hold it- like the cuts on a M4
Link Posted: 10/31/2006 7:56:12 PM EST
Use shims instead of a crush washer. Hand tighten with locktite. Tourquing the muzzle device more than about 5 ft lbs is said to affect accuracy anyway. I use blue locktite on the brakes on my rifles and hand tighten and I still have a hell of a time getting them off to clean the carbon build up off the crown.
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 4:35:31 AM EST
The muzzle device in question doesn't use any sort of washer. I forget the exact torque specs, but I'm thinking I'm just going to drop it in an upper block and wrench it down -- I don't think the spec calls for enough torque to damage the barrel indexing pin.

Thanks for the replies, guys.
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 10:52:15 AM EST
The problem isn't that it hurts the barrel indexing pin. The problem is more that the hard barrel indexing pin can deform the slot in the softer AL upper that the pin gets indexed in.

T
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 10:56:04 AM EST

Originally Posted By bfett:
The problem isn't that it hurts the barrel indexing pin. The problem is more that the hard barrel indexing pin can deform the slot in the softer AL upper that the pin gets indexed in.

T


Good point. That's really what I was thinking. Either way, I don't think I'll sweat it for the amount of force I'm talking about.
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 11:01:38 AM EST
You could always solder it, but good luck getting it off afterwards.
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 11:03:22 AM EST

Originally Posted By bradleyc:
You could always solder it, but good luck getting it off afterwards.


It'll have rockset on it, but I still hate wrenching stuff down this way. I think I'm worrying too much about it.
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