Barrel vise, DPMS ok?
machinist’s level  <---- Why??
Barrel Assembly Paste
upper Receiver Action Block
Lower Receiver Vise Block
DPMS combo barrel wrench
barrel nut alignment gauge <--?what, why, who

And what is the Chargin handle looking thingy tool?

I know stupids questions but i am still trying to find a good book to have to do this.

This tool will make it sooooooo easy to mount barrels.  I make my own out of a short (2"-3") length of an old gas tube.

You stick it in the bolt carrier key, and push it through the receiver and it will hold the notches in the circlip, weld spring, and delta ring up at the top.  Then as you start tightening the barrel nut, the tube will pop through as soon as the next notch lines up, and you're done!!!  It turns a barrel mount into a 10 minute job.

Just my tip for the day. [:D]

I'm not sure about the level unless it's used to help with the front sight alignment in some way.
Use the barrel vise only if you are installing a screw on hider flashhider or break.If you are using a slip on break or leaving the barrel plain,it's not needed.
Barrel Assembly paste can't hurt.
The Upper Block is the way to go for installing a barrel instead of trying to use vise jaws on the barrel.
A lower reciever vise block is nice but not needed unless you are doing trigger work where you'll be removing parts several times.As for using it to hold the lower while installing the buffer tube,I clamp (using padded jaws)on the thick flat sides behind the mag well to install the tube.You really need to make a set of leather padded jaws for your bench vise anyway.For light work,an old junk mag will do to hold it for minor operations.
Combo barrel wrench:Buy the nicest one with a handle on it and forget the torque wrench.At square hole for a "breaker bar" (pull handle to my hillbilly rear)is nice for one that was over tightened trying to torque it then having to go almost a full hole further for gas tube alignment.
The barrel nut alignment gauge is to align a hole in the barrel nut so the gas tube will slide through without having to use the tube itself for a gauge(this can be made yourself.It's a rod with a taper on the end like a long bullet.If you can find a piece of stock .178"(11/64"plus .007"),you can just grind a taper on the end.Or just take an old 11/64" drill bit,measure the shank to make sure it's not undersize and grind a taper on it.)
The Charging handle looking thing is an insert for the upper to keep from crushing the upper with the blocks in a vise.
One more thing to make or buy is a bench block to support the barrel when installing the front sight base/gas block pins.This can be store bought from Brownells made from several materials (mine's nylon).You can make one out of a pice of wood (oak or maple would be ideal but preferably something other than pine) by making a groove for the base to sit in where it won't roll.If you are removing the pins drill a couple of holes at least twice as large as the pins to recieve them when you drive them out (there's a post about this in this section).
Stupid questions? No,uninformed questions maybe but give yourself a pat on the back for knowing enough to ask before you waste money like I did on the alignment gauge (doh!) or damage something.
Robert.
With apoligies,edited to correct the size of the gas tube alignment tool.I picked up a Rem 1100 slave pin by mistake the first time(double doh!)[smash]
Sorry,Robert.[stick]

He i really appriciate thge info guys. What about the torque wrench do i need one? this would be used to set correct timing wouldnt it?

Also i suppose i should get a set of go no go gauges.

anything else? I already have enough of the basic gunsmithing tools from working on other rifles. i guess i just need the AR dedicated stuff

And robert, I already have a bench block made out of wood but thanks for the suggestion.

The book says to use a torque wrench to put proper tension on the barrel nut.The indexing is controled by the alignment pin in the barrel,not the toruqe or the starting piont of the threads like a gun where the barrel is threaded (most everything except some Savages).
The general concensus seems to be get it tight but don't overtighten it by torqueing to spec then have to turn it further to align the tube hole in the nut.
On the AR 15,the only thing that is "timed" is the front sight base and the hole in the nut for the gas tube to go through.
And yes,a set of headspace gauges is a good idea,I'm sorry I didn't suggest it.
I'd check it to see if the bolt will lock on a no-go.If it does,try a "field" gauge.If it won't lock on a field,it is okay to fire but accuracy may suffer.The reason I say this is there is one more "field" gauge that is a Military or something that is way longer than a regular "field" gauge.
Robert.
Edited to add something I forgot (doh!).

Ok, so timing isnt like an FAL where its an "X" amount of torque by threading on the barrel.

How exaclty is the barrel helod on then if it does not thread into the trunion if a trunion exists.

The barrel has a shoulder on it that seats on a shoulder in the upper reciever and the nut holds the two together.
Robert.

That seems to simple

Ahhh, Grasshopper - you have achieved true enlightenment.

You're right - it's simple!!  Of course you'd never know it by all the gyrations the Torque Wrench Weenies on the Troubleshooting Board go through mounting barrels.  There's no need for Magic Grease, tightening and loosening several times, worrying about torque specs, waving dead chickens over the receiver, dancing naked in the moonlight, etc.  It's just one fricken nut, fer christ's sake!!!  And not a stressed one at at that!

Here's you you install a barrel -

First, make sure the front sight is straight up and down by reading [url=http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=170587]this[/url].  Then turn the barrel nut until it starts tightening up.  At this point you lean on the barrel wrench until the next gas tube notch lines up and you're done!!

It's so simple.  If it takes longer than ten minutes you're doing it wrong.

Thats very interesting,

My Relaoding mentor refers to me as Grasshopper and talks about enlightenment.

Great and wise teacher shall be proud of young grasshopper to build a varminter from the ground up.

  I've got to agree with Homo_Erectus about the torque wrenching etc.
  As far as it being simple,that was one of the biggest selling points to the Army was how cheaply it could be made(this at a time when we were giving them away as "aid" to anybody that would align with the west).
 We're not talking Grease Gun or Sten or even Uzi cheap but still, compared to the cost of building a gun with a steel reciever in the traditional manner(think M14 or Rem 700),it's cheap to build and repair.
  I'm not the biggest fan of the AR 15 (I hope I don't get banned from here or shot down in flames for saying that cause I am starting to like 'em),but I've got to admit I see the good points in the modular design and the design has proven itself through time and it has proven to be very adaptable to different needs.

 I don't know why it took so long for it to be generally accepted.I guess enough people had to have expierence (good instead of all the negative press from the first ones almost 40 years ago)with them to accept them.
 It was the same 100 years ago when it was hard to sell a bolt action rifle.After WW1,people began to accept them since they had been proven to be more accurate and as reliable as a lever just not as fast to operate.
 The fact that AR15's are easily worked on with $100.00 worth of tools doesn't hurt either!
 As for the barrel nut,all the stress is on the barrel to extension threads and the locking lugs on the bolt to the recess in the extension.That's how you can use two aluminum receiver parts to build the gun.
 Got anymore questions????Just ask and I'm sure someone here will know.Hope this has been helpful,
Robert

Ok well, as soon as i get the rifle and then order the parts and tools i hope to have two new ARs in about 3 weeks

Thanks so mush for the help guys

--Rob

ramjet,

Here are some pics I took when I swapped out an upper and also installed free float HGs.  It shows the pin that aligns the barrel and upper.  There is no timing involved as with a FAL.  It's pretty much along the lines of assembling a kid's bike, but easier.

Scroll through these pics:
[url]http://www.ofoto.com/PhotoView.jsp?UV=912208632487_582747860103&collid=657447860103&photoid=457447860103[/url]

Ok so where exactly does the barrel assembly paste go and where can i find this paste or a substitute at Midwayusa.com. I ask this cause i got a big order going into them soon or can i find the paste at model1sales?