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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 10/10/2003 4:43:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/10/2003 4:43:33 PM EDT by hickboy]
After a few years of using one of those M16 Brushes and solvent or CLP to clean the actions and bolts on all my guns, I decided to try Gun Scrubber. GOOD LORD!! It is soooo awsome!! It works way better than I ever thought it would. Just spray the dirty part, the crap drips off, then the stuff evaporates. The part is squeaky clean!! So my question is, Why doesn't everyone use this stuff to clean their guns? Too expensive? (It is kinda expensive cause you use a lot on a really dirty gun, but worth it IMHO)
Link Posted: 10/10/2003 6:13:33 PM EDT
That is why a lot of more economically minded people use brake cleaner instead of Gun Scrubber. Essentially similar (different chemicals, but same purpose) and much cheaper. I usually opt for the cheapest brand of nonchlorinated brake cleaner from AutoZone. As another option, carbuetor cleaner works too, although not quite as well; the bonus is it's even cheaper than brake cleaner ($0.99 a can) and is designed for aluminum (what carbuetors and ARs are made from).
Link Posted: 10/10/2003 9:57:23 PM EDT
Keep in mind it removes pretty much all traces of any oil. If you don’t recoat everything with oil, you will probably get rust. A co-worker of mine pretty much ruined a S&W five shot revolver by spraying the insides with brake cleaner without taking it apart. Within those limits, it works fine.
Link Posted: 10/10/2003 10:03:28 PM EDT
Carb cleaner will leave a residue - don't use it. Brake cleaner is fine, just watch certain types of plastics and be sure to re-oil like 199 said.
Link Posted: 10/11/2003 9:22:45 AM EDT
Thanks, I made sure to re-oil everything. I have question, does Gun Scrubber/Brake cleaner remove only grease and oil, or does it also remove all or some carbon, copper, lead, and powder? This may sound like a stupid question, but I was just thinking about it. On the can it just says removes grease and oil. BTW- What brand of brake cleaner works the best? Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/11/2003 2:26:36 PM EDT
Originally Posted By hickboy: Thanks, I made sure to re-oil everything. I have question, does Gun Scrubber/Brake cleaner remove only grease and oil, or does it also remove all or some carbon, copper, lead, and powder? This may sound like a stupid question, but I was just thinking about it. On the can it just says removes grease and oil. BTW- What brand of brake cleaner works the best? Thanks.
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Anybody?
Link Posted: 10/11/2003 3:00:51 PM EDT
That product is a degreaser, I don't think that it will be effective on carbon and will not dissolve copper, but it has it's purpose, as a general cleaner. I use it to float away crud and I buy any brand depending on price. Stick to powder and copper solvents for the bore. Make sure you relube everything, that stuff removes ALL OIL.
Link Posted: 10/12/2003 6:24:55 AM EDT
I've been using it(brake cleaner)for years on all my weapons. SIGs, Glocks, S&Ws, ARs, etc... Never had a rust problem. But, like everyone say's be sure to relube. Joe
Link Posted: 10/12/2003 9:01:19 AM EDT
Originally Posted By hickboy: Thanks, I made sure to re-oil everything. I have question, does Gun Scrubber/Brake cleaner remove only grease and oil, or does it also remove all or some carbon, copper, lead, and powder? This may sound like a stupid question, but I was just thinking about it. On the can it just says removes grease and oil. BTW- What brand of brake cleaner works the best? Thanks.
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Like it says, it is a degreaser. However, when you remove all the oil, you will remove all the fouling that is in the oil. If you run your guns dry it doesn't do much good - I've tried it. For brake cleaner, just try a couple and keep using the best one. I just tried a cheap brand that I am not too happy with - mainly because the spray does not have enough pressure to get the job done.
Link Posted: 10/12/2003 9:44:30 AM EDT
Ok, thanks.
Link Posted: 10/12/2003 11:36:02 PM EDT
CLP
Link Posted: 10/18/2003 5:34:48 PM EDT
Gumout brand carb and choke cleaner is 1/3 the price of Gun Scrubber and works just as well. The advantage of Carb and Choke cleaner is that it, by definition, takes out carbon deposits with it. I spray it down, scrub with a double end toothbrush, spray again, and let it dry. If I can ever afford a compressor, I'll spray it dry and then relube everything. It really works great.
Link Posted: 10/19/2003 12:37:14 AM EDT
I scrub everything with Hoppe's #9 and rinse off with brake cleaner. Finish off with a coat of CLP. Hoppy
Link Posted: 10/19/2003 12:54:30 AM EDT
... Same shit as your average "brake cleaner" you can get for $1.99 @ Checker Auto
Link Posted: 10/22/2003 10:26:09 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Shadowblade: Carb cleaner will leave a residue - don't use it. Brake cleaner is fine, just watch certain types of plastics and be sure to re-oil like 199 said.
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To elaborate on that, yes, carb cleaner leaves a (very slight) residue. However, this is not a problem the way I use it, mainly as a pre-cleaner and time saver. That is, I use Gun Scrubber, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner to take off the worst of the filthy mess, before commencing with normal cleaning methods. The routine cleaning removes carb cleaner residue (what little of it there is) along with any leftover gunk. Some people might have misconstrued my statement to "use brake cleaner/carb cleaner!" to mean that this should be the entire cleaning regimen in and of itself; this is not what I was suggesting. If I'm using carb cleaner, I use it only for the pre-cleaning. If I use brake cleaner, I use it both for pre-cleaning as well as a post-cleaning flush before final application of lube. Hickboy, yes, blasting solvents at something will remove loose carbon, but not hardened or baked on deposits. It does significantly reduce the amount of work and time spent on the actual cleaning (ESPECIALLY in the barrel extension), which is canned solvent's main claim to fame - instead of having to actually wipe it off yourself, you can just hose it out of the gun, let it run down the bore and drip out the muzzle, and make a big brown dead spot in your backyard lawn. [:D]
Link Posted: 11/1/2003 7:35:24 AM EDT
I use ONESHOT spray cleaner and dry lube. This stuff flushes out all the crud and powder residue and dry lubes as well, then finish with CLP.
Link Posted: 11/1/2003 10:59:14 AM EDT
I second the cheap brake cleaner, or carb cleaner. I also follow up with Eezox and a good wipe down. I also use #2 fuel oil ($1.50 gal)since it has very good anti carbon detergents. Hoppes #9 or sweets 7.62 for everything else. Geez the chemicals I have for cleaning a lubrication cover a wall. Maybe I should cut back!
Link Posted: 11/1/2003 11:36:09 PM EDT
Originally Posted By b0ne: That is why a lot of more economically minded people use brake cleaner instead of Gun Scrubber. Essentially similar (different chemicals, but same purpose) and much cheaper. I usually opt for the cheapest brand of nonchlorinated brake cleaner from AutoZone. As another option, carbuetor cleaner works too, although not quite as well; the bonus is it's even cheaper than brake cleaner ($0.99 a can) and is designed for aluminum (what carbuetors and ARs are made from).
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I tried to use Braker Cleaner and it didn't take off S*it, I had to re-clean it with CLP. I guess I got a bad batch or something.
Link Posted: 11/2/2003 10:27:44 AM EDT
What is CLP? Thanks
Link Posted: 11/2/2003 10:55:12 AM EDT
Cleaner Lubricant Preservative. Commonly called Breakfree. Oh, welcome to the site. Danny
Link Posted: 11/3/2003 5:24:22 AM EDT
You got to clean these things, since when? Nobody ever tells me shit.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 12:09:32 AM EDT
Quick note: CARB cleaner does NOT remove anything other than loose carbon. It is NOT a carbon solvent. Carbuerator cleaner is designed to dissolve the lacquer created by petroleum based fuels. This lacquer is generally deposited on the inside surfaces of carbuerator components after long years of being exposed to fuels vapors and tends to really gum up the works of a device that needs to run in balance to run effectively. I'm not saying that you can't use it for cleaning your guns...( though I don't think you should use either ) just wanting you to know what it can't do. Still flushes tons of crap out of your way in a hurry, though.
Link Posted: 11/8/2003 1:28:59 PM EDT
Just for the record, some (most) brands of brake cleaner will also melt $300 polycarbonate bifocal lenses. Wear goggles; it [b] will[/b] splash back.
Link Posted: 11/9/2003 2:36:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/9/2003 2:42:21 PM EDT by JTinIN]
The NAPA brand brake and electrical cleaner is the exact same chemical as current Gun Scrubber for $2.98 per 18 oz (with AAA discount). Both of these need to be used with care due to potential health issues. For the non-chlorinated solvents (most all of which have a fire hazard and should be used with care), would stay away from any from any which have the same chemcials as [url=http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/423.html]solvent based paint stripper[/url] such as Methylene chloride, acetone or MEK. Since all of these will be hard on plastic and/or painted type finishes.
Link Posted: 11/14/2003 3:26:33 PM EDT
Warning about brake or carburator cleaner.... I was using some to spray down the bore of my $2000 rifle. Some of it got onto the barrel's parkerized surface. When I took a patch to wipe it down, I noticed that a coating of the park came with it. I'll never use either on my weapons after that! Perhaps on blued surfaces it might be ok, but I don't need to find out.
Link Posted: 11/14/2003 4:09:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/14/2003 4:12:06 PM EDT by BallisticTip]
If you want to flush blast parts, use W-D40 then dry parts and use CLP.
Link Posted: 11/15/2003 12:01:47 PM EDT
I just got two cans of STP Heavy Duty Brake Parts cleaner. Is this a good brand? For $1.99 a 14oz. can, ya can't beat it! [:D]
Link Posted: 11/18/2003 7:27:54 AM EDT
I've always cleaned all my weapons with Hoppe's #9, and followed up with the old army stuff, LSA, or Lubricant, Small Arms. I hear now and have heard the rumble for CLP, but the LSA is cheaper, doesn't come in a spray can (a personal thing, I think spray cans waste a lot of product instead of putting it where it's needed)and is available almost everywhere. Please let me know if I'm being less than excellent with my attention to my weapon. this is my first ar15, and since i screwed an ACOG TA01 on top, i'm really amazed that a non-target barrel in only a 16" configuration will print 1 moa groups at 100 meters. Actually, i'm thinking seriously about trading my M1A1 shorty off and get another ar15 in target version.
Link Posted: 11/18/2003 10:25:46 AM EDT
[b]tommygs[/b] Sounds pretty good to me. Every once in a while (maybe 500 rounds or so, depending on your preferences) you might also want to use a de-coppering solvent such as Shooter’s Choice or Sweet’s to clean out any copper in the bore. (Note that Sweet’s is fairly wicked stuff – read the directions!!). Hoppes No. 9 doesn’t do much in this area. I agree with you re: spray cans. However, CLP is certainly available in a bottle. (Incidentally, I kinda prefer FP-10 brand CLP, but Breakfree and such will certainly work.) Just a thought, you could always keep your present AR and add a different upper. That assumes, of course, that you’re happy with your lower (trigger, buttstock, etc.).
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 11:54:06 AM EDT
Originally Posted By hickboy: I just got two cans of STP Heavy Duty Brake Parts cleaner. Is this a good brand? For $1.99 a 14oz. can, ya can't beat it! [:D]
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As long as it's non-chlorinated--and I see that others are warning you to promptly re-oil or CLP whatever you spray it on--good advice given to you here.
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 2:35:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/21/2003 2:38:26 PM EDT by hickboy]
Thanks Mike. I'm a rust freak, so I'm going to over lube a part if anything! [:D] Edited to ask: The cans don't say that it is non-chlorinated, can I still use it?
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 2:52:28 PM EDT
Doesn't say in the ingredients section? I don't recall the specific reason I was told (it's been a while), but I was advised to use the non-chlorinated stuff. GM TEC is another trick (Thanks to Tommy Haskins) to use to clean your bore--I just would not use GM TEC purchased in CA recently as I was advised that CA's air board (whatever it is) forced GM to restructure it's ingredients to be CA kosher, and I don't think that there are that many HP shooters left in CA that would test the Kali-approved blend in their good barrels. Only the TEC for CA was changed, the rest of the free nation uses the "pre-ban" stuff (see a trend?)...I have 2 cans left over if you want to try a sample of it-it's good stuff, very similar to Butch's Bore Shine.
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 3:07:32 PM EDT
Thanks again! The only thing it says is: "Contains xylene, acetone, and heptane. Contains no phosphorus."
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 3:41:12 PM EDT
Originally Posted By hickboy: Thanks again! The only thing it says is: "Contains xylene, acetone, and heptane. Contains no phosphorus."
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Nope, no chlorinated solvents there. You're good to go. You are looking for things like "Tri[b]chloro[/b]ethane..." or such.
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 6:02:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/21/2003 6:02:48 PM EDT by hickboy]
Thanks Ohio! I was getting a little worried that I spent all of $4 for two cans!! [;)]
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 7:38:29 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Ohio: You are looking for things like "Tri[b]chloro[/b]ethane..." or such.
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Ohio, isn't that also known as Trichloroethane 1,1,1, aka contact cleaner? Just curious...
Link Posted: 11/24/2003 12:19:31 PM EDT
I often use brake cleaner because it is cheap and fairly effective. But, I'll tell you. That Gunscrubber is 10 times better.It misses nothing. Wish I could afford to buy it more often.
Link Posted: 11/26/2003 8:27:06 AM EDT
Sounds like you are thinking along some of the same lines as me... I have a 16" HBAR II, and it'll shoot 1 moa groups all day. IMHO, all you will gain is a longer sight radius, and some weight up front. BTW, what is your sight configuration? I have a Leupold 3x9 40mm on mine, and while that does the job wonderfully for most of the hunting situations I find myself in, I had a close range encounter with a water mocassin last weekend, and while the snake is in snake heaven, I'm giving some serious thought to an holosight or something along those lines. While I like the lines of the 24" target barrels, I just think I'd get more bang for my buck building a nice 700 in 308. Did you mount your ACOG on the flattop? Can you still use your iron sights?
Link Posted: 11/26/2003 2:50:50 PM EDT
Excuse me sir, but what the hell are you talking about?? [>:/]
Link Posted: 11/26/2003 7:47:57 PM EDT
I believe the reason some people don't like chlorinated solvents is due to the added health risks. Otherwise, I was under the impression they work better than non-clorinated solvents. I mean, if it's more dangerous to your health, it has to work better, right?[:D] A good rule of thumb when it comes to using chemicals to make life easier, always use the stuff that is the most dangerous, you can usually bet it will work the best. Trichloroethane, or TCE for short, was banned from being sold to the common man. It could be said that its the best solvent on earth, or nearly so. I have heard MEK is pretty good too, though. If I understand correctly, you can get permits to buy TCE but you have to show a good reason for needing it. I guess the stuff is a pretty decent carcinogen and its best to have a respirator and rubber gloves if you are going to use it. Gun scrubber used to use it but had to change its formula after it was banned. I think I used to burn the stuff for the hell of it, in a room with closed ventilation to boot, as a kid. I remember the fumes actually oxidized the steel tools that my dad had in the room, wasn't to happy about that. Oh well, Darwin award here I come.
Link Posted: 12/7/2003 6:56:18 AM EDT
Does any one use mc-7 bore cleaner from Shooters Choice? How does it work?
Link Posted: 12/13/2003 5:09:18 PM EDT
I have used Shooters Choice MC7 for a long time as my main bore cleaner. Used it on bolt guns mostly, but now that I have an AR, will use it on that as well. It seems to me to be a step stronger than Hoppes #9. With SC I see some blue streaks on the patch (copper being removed). I don't see that with Hoppes. Still, I use a real copper solvent (Shooters Choice as well) every third or fourth cleaning. Use the copper solvent AFTER you have cleaned the bore of powder residue so the solvent can reach the copper.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 10:06:52 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Minuteman419: Cleaner Lubricant Preservative. Commonly called Breakfree. Danny
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Danny, With all due respect and to clarify the issue, CLP (which stands for Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative, as you say) is NOT just BreakFree. CLP is a Military acronym (see MIL-PRF-63460D, page 1, 1980) and partains to a group or classification of products, not just 1 in general. Besides BreakFree, there is ROYCO CLP (Royal Lubricants), LSA, and Firepower FP-10, which are all CLPs, but have significant differences in levels of performance. If you prefer Breakfree as your CLP of choice, that's fine. But, you should give serious thought to trying one of the others, of which I know of 1 that will send you a free sample, just for emailing them at [email]mpcsales@mpc-home.com[/email]. Just tell em I sent you, if you decide to try it, and request the sample of Firepower FP-10. (I don't think we have any samples of the other stuff layin' around [;)] Best regards, George
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 10:40:34 AM EDT
I recently bought some Breakfree CLP gun cleaner at Wally World, about $3.00 per can and works very well, I used some on my son's muzzle loader after a day with Pyrodex and bore butter - blasted it all out completely. Only thing I havent tried is using it on my Carbon 15 pistol, anyone else use it on Carbon 15's? or brake cleaner for that matter? Jeff
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