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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 5/30/2003 2:22:03 PM EDT
of my brand gnu Rock River CAR97A2M4 while I was shooting it today for the first time! No, it didn't go full auto, and yeah, it continued to shoot as if nothing had ever happened.

The supplied manual is the Marine Corps TM05538 which addresses the M16A2, which of course has the 3 round burst thing going on. Not being a Class 3 holder, mine is the old fashioned yank and bang variety and as such is not clearly diagramed (sp?) in this manual.

Other than shipping it back To Rock River and waiting about a hundred years for the warrantee repair, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can effect the repair myself? Is this a complex procedure or something that a child of two can clearly see (and I thank you Ed McMahon)?

Please bear in mind that this is my first AR and pictures are GOOD for me!!

Mike Sigman
MBSigman@aol.com
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 2:27:51 PM EDT
Sounds to me like the detent wasn't put in when the pistol grip was put on... Did you build this lower or did it come from the factory?
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 2:32:25 PM EDT
Cube is right... safety detent... pull the grip with a 3/16 allen, remove the spring, and check for the detent... If it isn't there, it's a simple process to replace... [url]www.ar15.com/content/parts/lower.html[/url] [img]www.ar15.com/content/parts/lower.gif[/img]
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 2:35:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/30/2003 2:35:54 PM EDT by Ridge]
Yes this will probably require a flathead screwdriver (or allen wrench), a new safety detent (nub that holds the safety in) and maybe a safety detent spring. I'll bet if you called rock river or whomever you bought the rifle from, they would send you the parts right away and you could fix it yourself in about 5 min. Look down the hole in your pistol grip...thats the screw that needs to be removed.
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 2:54:55 PM EDT
Part number 4 and 5 on the diagram are what you are looking for. #4 is the detent spring and #5 is the detent.
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 3:14:59 PM EDT
I just received 2 RRA lowers within the past week and both have a machining error in the Selector detent well. Niether one would allow the detent pin to engage the notch in the selector. From the looks of things it appeared the bit they were using had worn just enough to keep the pin from traveling far enough into the well. It was an easy fix with a fresh bit, WARNING be very carful if this is your problem. There are shoulders inside the well that keep the pin from traveling to far! I learned the hard way and now I'm having to machine a new detent pin that fits the new dimentions of the well.
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 3:19:25 PM EDT
I'm having a similar problem with an RRA lower. The detent I have doesn't move freely up and down in the hole. I'm now glad I haven't been able to get it out. The first thing I'd have done was take a drill to it. Now, how do I coax it out? I've tried CLP and it has come down a bit, but not all the way out. If it wasn't so small I'd have tried a drill or maybe an easy out. I may still if I get frustrated enough.
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 3:33:44 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Stryfe: I'm having a similar problem with an RRA lower. The detent I have doesn't move freely up and down in the hole. I'm now glad I haven't been able to get it out. The first thing I'd have done was take a drill to it. Now, how do I coax it out? I've tried CLP and it has come down a bit, but not all the way out. If it wasn't so small I'd have tried a drill or maybe an easy out. I may still if I get frustrated enough.
View Quote
Ok, the same thing happened to me at first. The back of the detent pin drills very easily, if you use a 1/16 bit and drill the center of the pin about 1/8 deep the pin should spin if you haven't jammed it to hard, this worked for me and I accually hit the pin with a punch a couple of times trying to get it in. After you do this the pin is still useable.
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 3:37:49 PM EDT
From the descriptions, it appears that the hole is there, just that the shoulder in the hole is too shallow, causing the detent to fail to engage the safety. If the detent hole does in fact go throught to the safety hole, remove the safety and grip and use a bent paper clip. Push it into the hole in the lip of the safety hole to push the detent out the bottom.
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 9:05:58 AM EDT
My thanks to all that have replied and for the diagrams. It appears that the spring and the safety detent are both missing. Assuming I can obtain replacements from RRA in a timely fashion, what is the procedure for reinstallation? I would assume (there's that durn word again!) that I insert the safety lever and then insert the spring and the detent, but what position do I put the safety lever in when I'm installing these things? Guess I need the procedure on how to do this. Thanks again Mike
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 9:20:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/31/2003 9:22:08 AM EDT by Shadowblade]
Position of the safety shouldn't matter. If the hammer is not cocked you will probably need to have it in the "fire" position.
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 9:42:07 AM EDT
how can the safety just fall out? when i've assembled lowers i have to put the safety in before the trigger because the rear part of the trigger gets in the way. so i would think it wouldn't fall out all the way but maybe be loose?
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 10:19:19 AM EDT
When the hammer is back and locked, the rear arm on the trigger drops free of the selector switch.
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 11:06:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/31/2003 11:06:32 AM EDT by DevilsAdvocate]
And let us not forget... [size=3][b]UNLOAD AND CLEAR THE WEAPON FIRST!!![/b][/size=3]
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 10:01:03 PM EDT
Folks, first and foremost I appreciate your replies. I'm gonna fess up on this situation for two reasons, but first here's what's what with this deal. Prior to my first time to the range with my new RRA, I went to install a 'gapper' to protect my paws. I already had the Hogues on there, and I couldn't get the gapper on with the Hogues installed, so I unscrewed the bolt with the Allen wrench, popped the grip, installed the gapper, and reinstalled the grip. Good to go, right? Or so I thought. Last week I found a small spring on my garage floor. Hmmm....what the heck, over? Seein' as I save everything (much to the consternation of my wife!), I set the spring aside on my bench. OKFine. Hit the range and poof the safety falls out. This actually happened to me years ago with my Smith Wesson 645, and it turned out to be a defective safety that required factory warrantee replacement. Put two and two together and it certainly can't be anything that I did wrong, could it?? After reading your posts I figgured I'd pull the grip, and sure enough - DOHHHH!!! I caught two breaks here - I found the spring and held on to it - a lesson for all us pack rats out there and, more importantly, for the spouses that give us grief about it! The other break I got was the safety plunger that contacts the spring was still in the frame. The kicker of this was that I installed the Hogues the day after I got the rifle and was almost paranoid about losing the spring, but for some dumb reason my brain just turned off when I put the gapper in and didn't make the connection with the spring. Spring in, safety in, function check (about ten times!) and everything is right with the world again. OK, sports fans, the reasons that I'm setting myself up for the mother of all flame jobs is two-fold: #1 Being a newbie (and I mean really newbie) to the AR15 world if I can make this incredibly stupid mistake I'd bet dollars to donuts that someone else out there may make it as well. Hopefully they will read this post and learn from my mistake. Be careful when changing out the grip on an AR!! #2 And more importantly, I had implied that the fault was with RRA (with my implication that it was shipped with a defect) and not with me having a cranial circuit breaker malfunction. Fact of the matter is that this is a fine weapon and anything thinking of purchasing a Rock River product should not let my dumbbell move preclude them from buying that rifle. Now the good: Completely cool the way everyone on this web board came a'runnin' to help. It's awesome how everyone jumps in to help people on this board solve problems, and I sincerely appreciate everyone's input. I wish all gun boards were this cool. OK, boys and girls. I've got my flak vest on - flame away 'cause I sure as hell deserve it! Thanks again everyone. Mike
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 10:23:59 PM EDT
Shit happens! Glad you got it fixed. I think most people would have never admitted to your mistake. Good job![beer]
Link Posted: 5/31/2003 10:35:08 PM EDT
That's a relief. How do you like the gapper?
Link Posted: 6/1/2003 12:09:29 AM EDT
Hehe... I was going to ask if you had removed the grips, but everyone had already told you what was wrong by the time I read the post[:)]. Glad you got her up and running again.
Link Posted: 6/1/2003 5:12:16 AM EDT
I admit it, I changed my factory grip to a Houge and w/o realizing it - spring popped out. The same thing happened to me with the saftey popping out. But I realized right away that the spring was on the floor and so I took the grip off and put that spring back in and i was good to go. its a learning experience!
Link Posted: 6/1/2003 10:44:25 AM EDT
Far out! It DID happen to someone else! Now I don't feel quite so stupid. Just semi-stupid! Mr Ridge: In answer to your question, I like it a lot. I like rubber grips on my weapons for the feel, and the gapper really does help keep your hand from getting torn up. I admit I was skeptical at first. I got it from Bushmaster. Think it was around 4 bucks. Mike
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