Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
11/24/2017 4:44:23 PM
11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 9/24/2004 4:40:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/26/2004 3:07:12 PM EST by WillMunny]
OK, let me preface this by saying I'm a moron.

With that out on the table, I got my new telestock today and decided that it couldn't really be that hard to remove and replace my old telestock without the proper tools. (see point #1 above).

So I went at the castle nut with a variety of methods (including wrenches and even a hammer and awl) and all I have to show for it is a scraped up castle nut that didn't budge one milimeter.

But since my new telestock came with a nice new castle nut, at this point I'm willing to sacrifice the old one (on account of the scratches) just to get the f-ing old stock off of my lower.

Can I get it off without the special spanner wrench after all, or am I just wasting my time?
Thanks for the help.

Will
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 6:50:28 PM EST
Get the wrench from Bushmaster or another supplier.
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 8:45:05 PM EST
I was a moron once too! The castle nut is installed with loc-tite, which requires heat to remove. You must heat up the nut, use a hair dryer on high for a long time or a propane torch on low and far away for a little time. Then use a pipe wrench, preferably a small one to loosen the nut. If it won't budge, it's not hot enough. To install, use loc-tite and use a thick rag under the pipe wrench, but go easy, you can chew up the nut even with the rag under the wrench. You could also give a couple of hits with the drift punch and then clean up the chewed up castle with fine files and blacken it. OR order a t-stock wrench.
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 8:51:50 PM EST
Link Posted: 9/25/2004 5:38:51 AM EST
Thanks guys.

ASltrfl, aaahh, Loctite! I'm not sure why that didn't occur to me, but it must be the reason, because I had the lower in the vise with a wrench and it just wasn't budging AT ALL. I don't have a torch so I'll try the hair dryer method.

Why is this part loctited anyway? It doesn't seem to me that the castle nut gets enough torque/stress on it to require loctite? I'm actually tempted to re-install the nut without it...

Thanks again for the help.

Will
Link Posted: 9/25/2004 5:46:01 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/25/2004 9:12:48 AM EST
Get the right wrench and dont loctite it when you put your new one on....
Link Posted: 9/26/2004 4:53:46 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/26/2004 11:18:13 AM EST by WillMunny]
OK, thought I'd post an update.

Even after heating the castle nut it still won't budge, and I think I figured out why: on my Colt MT400C (but NOT on my RRA M4gery) the backplate itself has four extended grooves or "teeth" on it that fit into little detents on the back of the castle nut, preventing the castle nut from turning even when the loctite is heated.

How the heck do I get it off now? I have the correct wrench coming in the mail, which will help, but I still don't see how the wrench would defeat these extra teeth in the backplate...what am I missing?

Will
Link Posted: 9/26/2004 8:40:20 PM EST
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 2:13:44 AM EST
Tweak, yes, the little stakes (I was calling them teeth) that hold the nut to the plate. Neither of my other telestocks seem to have these stakes on their backplates, and it made removing the stock with a pipe wrench impossible.

Will these defeat the right castle nut wrench too? What am I missing. Thanks.

Will
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 2:33:39 AM EST
Top Top