Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 9/15/2009 10:52:18 PM EST
Well? I tried looking at the candlepower forums, but got no response from their "recommended" guy, so I thought I would try asking here. What I am looking to have done is replacing the stock LED with a compareable (3-watt?) LED in the 850-940nm range.

So if you can help me out, and or point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it.
Link Posted: 9/15/2009 11:57:24 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/15/2009 11:57:58 PM EST by Anto]
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/general-hs2k-sa-xd-talk/81514-220-lumen-tlr-1-20-mod.html

replace Seoul p4 with your IR led you're looking for.

have you picked out an led yet? if not make sure it has a luxeon footprint
Link Posted: 9/16/2009 7:06:50 AM EST
Originally Posted By Anto:
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/general-hs2k-sa-xd-talk/81514-220-lumen-tlr-1-20-mod.html

replace Seoul p4 with your IR led you're looking for.

have you picked out an led yet? if not make sure it has a luxeon footprint


I did this same mod with the P4. It seemed to be about the only LED with the right footprint.

Works great, but the operation is more delicate than the thread suggests, at least for my fingers. You're working down inside the unit a bit –– remember that "Operation" game when you were a kid? Not much work area. Three comments to add to the instructions:

1. Popping the Luxeon out was a bitch. I almost gave up a few times, but eventually it gave. Just try to find the right kind of tool to get under and pop it out after desoldering the connections.

2. Go lightly on the thermal epoxy on the back of the new LED. Too thick on the coating will make it hard to seat it flush in the well for the LED. You'll see when you pop the old one out that there is a depression it sits in.

3. Mine sat up a little high when I was done b/c of the epoxy coat. When I tightened the bezel, I think it bottomed on the circuit board and shorted the LED connections. It was fine until I screwed it on, but when I tightened it, light wouldn't work. Fixed that problem by lightly filing the base of the reflector, which is thick aluminum and there's plenty of material to work with. Took about 10 seconds.

Since then, works like a champ. Brighter than the original for sure, but not orders of magnitude better.

Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 12:39:41 AM EST

Originally Posted By Anto:
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/general-hs2k-sa-xd-talk/81514-220-lumen-tlr-1-20-mod.html

replace Seoul p4 with your IR led you're looking for.

have you picked out an led yet? if not make sure it has a luxeon footprint

No, I have not. I had the one I needed picked out from a listing. But Seoul has changed their website since I last looked and now I cannot find the part number. Would you happen to know of a site with a list of Seoul's part #'s and specs?



Originally Posted By jgttrey:
Originally Posted By Anto:
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/general-hs2k-sa-xd-talk/81514-220-lumen-tlr-1-20-mod.html

replace Seoul p4 with your IR led you're looking for.

have you picked out an led yet? if not make sure it has a luxeon footprint


I did this same mod with the P4. It seemed to be about the only LED with the right footprint.

Works great, but the operation is more delicate than the thread suggests, at least for my fingers. You're working down inside the unit a bit –– remember that "Operation" game when you were a kid? Not much work area. Three comments to add to the instructions:

1. Popping the Luxeon out was a bitch. I almost gave up a few times, but eventually it gave. Just try to find the right kind of tool to get under and pop it out after desoldering the connections.

2. Go lightly on the thermal epoxy on the back of the new LED. Too thick on the coating will make it hard to seat it flush in the well for the LED. You'll see when you pop the old one out that there is a depression it sits in.

3. Mine sat up a little high when I was done b/c of the epoxy coat. When I tightened the bezel, I think it bottomed on the circuit board and shorted the LED connections. It was fine until I screwed it on, but when I tightened it, light wouldn't work. Fixed that problem by lightly filing the base of the reflector, which is thick aluminum and there's plenty of material to work with. Took about 10 seconds.

Since then, works like a champ. Brighter than the original for sure, but not orders of magnitude better.

Hope this helps.

Not even owning an soldering iron, or knowing the process to properly de/re-solder, the tutorial is a little unnerving to me. But I will attempt it if I have to. So I appreciate you giving me an heads-up on what to look out for.

With that, thanks for the replies you guys.

Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:05:18 AM EST
This is what I ordered: https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2026. For 4 bucks, I ordered an extra in case I screwed one up. I don't claim to be an expert on LEDs or which BINs are best, etc. but this worked fine for me. A well stocked Radio Shack will have the thermal epoxy and thermal compound.

I'm no pro with a soldering iron. I have a radio shack desoldering tool, but the connections were small enough and the amount of solder was so little that I couldn't really suck it up. I just melted the existing connection and used a pick to pop the existing connection off. If you take care not to run too hot, you can clean the tip of the iron and pick up any globs of solder than remain if they are big enough to be a problem. Otherwise, I just left it there and let it remelt when I solder the new emitter in. A decent soldering iron is helpful, particularly one that let's you have at least a couple of options for heat.
Top Top