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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 1/6/2006 10:52:50 AM EDT
I have a friend who gave me his old Surefire 6P rechargeable flashlight and a KAC 1” mount. I would like to mount this on my M4’s RAS, but I need the tape switch that attaches to the end of the light at one end and will reach to my vertical foregrip with the other. I looked on Surefire’s website, but couldn’t find the switch. He also said I should pick up a “shock isolated bezel” for the flashlight. What is that and do I really need it? Does anyone know where I could get these items? Perhaps an industry partner on the boards here? TIA
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 11:53:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 11:56:56 AM EDT by BrightFlashlights]
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 1:24:34 PM EDT
The shock isolated bezel is slightly larger than the stock one and has a section of foam that acts as a cushion to absorb the recoil so it doesn't damage the lamp.

You need either an XM or UM tailcap. The XM has both a regular pushbutton and the removeable pressure switch and the UM is the pressure switch only. I think the standard length is 7 inches, but other lengths can be ordered.

But, these are about $100 MSRP. Pelican makes a tape switch that sells for only $20. I don't think that these are the quality or have the durability or longevity of the SureFires, but as long as they are reliable, they are great for the range or even home defense where you aren't subjecting them to tons of abuse. It's not like a tape switch is some high tech device after all.

Is yours a 6R or a 6P with the rechargeable kit? The body of the 6R is solid, while the 6P plus kit uses an add on extension for the longer ni-cad battery. Both use the P60 lamp. If it's an older 6R and it has direction it might mention the R60 lamp or might have come with one. Those have been discontinued and the standard P60 is for both the rechargeables and lithium batteries. You can use lithium batteries with either. Remove the extension if a 6P, or get an aluminum spacer (or make your own, a chunk of aluminum or even a dowell with a strip of copper) if it's a 6R.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 4:25:20 PM EDT
I don't think I've ever seen or heard of a single-body 6R... Got a photo of one?
The 7Z was a single body (I have one).
I've only ever seen the 6R being a 6P with A14 body extension.

The battery spacer that allows two-SF123As to power a 6R/7Z or G2R is the Z29.

The G2R is the G2 with AN14 body extension:




I agree:

Best to get a P60 if you're using an R60 because the output is better.

Also best to remove the A14 body extension if you're using SF123As instead of the B65 rechargeable battery stick because the A14 and Z29 increase the resistance of the flashlight which decreases the runtime and reduces the peak output.

Al
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 6:19:56 PM EDT
I looked at the light when I got home and it is a 6R not a 6P. It has a two piece body and has the R60 bulb in it. Here are some pics.





Link Posted: 1/8/2006 10:12:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Size15s:
I don't think I've ever seen or heard of a single-body 6R... Got a photo of one?
The 7Z was a single body (I have one).
I've only ever seen the 6R being a 6P with A14 body extension.

The battery spacer that allows two-SF123As to power a 6R/7Z or G2R is the Z29.

The G2R is the G2 with AN14 body extension:
www.littlefresher.co.uk/torch/photos/P98.jpg

www.littlefresher.co.uk/torch/photos/P97.jpg

I agree:

Best to get a P60 if you're using an R60 because the output is better.

Also best to remove the A14 body extension if you're using SF123As instead of the B65 rechargeable battery stick because the A14 and Z29 increase the resistance of the flashlight which decreases the runtime and reduces the peak output.

Al



Al,
For some reason I'm surprised to see that you are on this board.

I thought that the original 6R's were one piece, but I guess I was wrong.
This does give more options then. If you want a 9volt (lithium) light at some point, it can be done without buying a new light.
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