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Posted: 2/24/2007 10:37:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/24/2007 10:45:05 AM EST by berk73]
So I built myself a basic 20" using a Stag Arms lower,

first thing I noticed is that the accu-wedge doesnt fit, they didnt machine down enuf to put one in, I dont know if that matters or not but it is the way that lower is,

second thing I notice in when the trigger resets the hammer clicks back up with a heavy "thud", more so than my bushmaster or colt, enuf that it vibrates thru the whole stock- is that normal?, maybe since its a new trigger the reset spring is still hella stronger than my others

third I didnt have any other upper on hand to work with so I used one from my colt when I changed to a flattop that has the m4 feedramps, I know your not supposed to use uppers with ramps on barrel extensions without but has anyone else done this and had any problems, since the whole build only cost me around $500 bucks I wasnt looking to drop another 100 if it works alright for plinking.
Link Posted: 2/24/2007 2:43:44 PM EST
Link Posted: 2/24/2007 5:56:39 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/24/2007 10:25:37 PM EST by FN1889M]
I also just finished a Stag lower (my first AR build), and noticed the same two problems. You can cut the wedge shorter a little at a time, if the upper is loose. I did not end up using the wedge. Maybe later.

Second, the Stag trigger has lots of engagement on the trigger, sear, and disconnect, and a very long take-up. Probably for safety/liability reasons. I stoned the contact surfaces - don't take off any metal - just polish. It helps a lot. It is still long, but much nicer.

Conclusion - if you want a target rifle, Spend $100-$200 and get a good target trigger. If you want plinker or self-defense rifle, work with the stock Stag trigger, a stone, and time. I know more about pistols and bolt actions, but I think "engagement" is your friend for anything except target shooting. In both rifles and pistols.

Link Posted: 2/24/2007 6:21:20 PM EST
I put a wedge in mine just to keep it from rattling and spooking the zombies. To figure out how much to trim the bottom of the wedge I took a little chunk of clay, rolled it into a ball, and put it between a couple of pieces of tape. Put that under the takedown pin hole, close the receiver, open it back up, and measure the thickness of the clay with a pair of calipers. Cut the wedge down to that thickness and it works fine.

And it's really a bigger pain in the ass than it's worth.
Link Posted: 2/24/2007 6:27:09 PM EST
Isn't stag arms that company that use to be Hesse? If so now you know why this clown had to change names. The term Hesse usually yields alot of unsatisfied customers screaming about very bad or dangerous experiences AND the middle finger is also involved in the discussion as well!
Link Posted: 2/24/2007 6:32:46 PM EST

Originally Posted By remauto1100:
Isn't stag arms that company that use to be Hesse? If so now you know why this clown had to change names. The term Hesse usually yields alot of unsatisfied customers screaming about very bad or dangerous experiences AND the middle finger is also involved in the discussion as well!


Uhhhhhhhh, no.
Link Posted: 2/24/2007 8:04:26 PM EST
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 11:44:59 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/25/2007 11:45:42 AM EST by berk73]
upon lots of inspection on my trigger when the trigger is reset and the disconnector lets go the hammer moves a lot more than on the bushmaster or colt so I'm guessing its that bit of extra travel that makes the reset so much more pronounced than on my others, as far as the trigger pull goes tho, its no match grade - but its WAY smoother than the colt or bushmaster with what feels like a slightly lighter pull weight, maybe a 1/2 to 1 lb less
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