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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 6/29/2005 9:40:01 AM EDT
Put the bbl on my Stag upper- no prob.

Driving the gas tube in was a pain. I finally laid the pin on a piece of masking tape & taped it to the roll pin punch. It went in tight- last 1/16 started to mushroom out & I stopped.

bbl is from J&T Dist, forged FSB.

Should I call it good, or put in a new pin?
Link Posted: 6/29/2005 10:16:58 AM EDT
They can be a PITA to get in. I usually put just a tiny bit of a taper on the edge of the hole I'm driving the pin into. I wouldn't worry about function w/the mushroomed end, but you might want to pick up a couple of new ones next time you get some other parts, and try it again
Link Posted: 6/29/2005 5:55:59 PM EDT
Link Posted: 6/30/2005 4:04:35 AM EDT
I found that a cheapy "soldering tool" from Radio Shack was a big help in aligning the gas tube pin hole correctly BEFORE trying to drive the pin into place. The tool has a small tapered end similar to a scribe or ice pick, and the tapered point allows it to "center" the gas tube hole with the front sight base hole perfectly. HTH.

Link Posted: 6/30/2005 4:30:47 AM EDT
find a drill bit the same size as the hole and run it through there by hand, maybe theres some flashing in there obstructing the hole.

i used a pair of pliers to sorta clamp it in, just to start it and then used the pliers to hold it while i hammer it.
Link Posted: 6/30/2005 5:31:01 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BravoCompanyUSA:
Make sure your hole in the gas tube is lined up correctly, so that the pin can pass through the hole in the gas block and into the hole in the gas tube.

Inserting the gas tube, then centering the holes by running a very thin punch through helps
Then maybe hold it up to the light to insure its centered.

Did that w/a pin punch. The lil bugger was a very tight fit. Maybe a bit of parkerizing in the hole?

Is it wise to use a 'regular' steel hammer? I was using a plastic mallet. Maybe something heavier would have put it in faster?

Since I'm kinda ham-fisted I went with the lighter mallet.
Link Posted: 6/30/2005 5:36:22 AM EDT

Is it wise to use a 'regular' steel hammer?

I use a brass hammer to keep from leaving a mark on the FSB. A roll-pin punch would work better, but the brass hammer works well enough. It does mess-up the face of the brass hammer, but that just happens.

eklikwhoa's suggestion to clean-up the hole is a good one. I found I needed to do that on a barrel that came from the helpful vendor that posted here. That goes to show that even when buying a good barrel you still might need to clean-up the hole.z
Link Posted: 6/30/2005 10:58:23 AM EDT
What interesting is that Derrick from Accuracy speaks, recommends just using loctite retainer no pin at all.

Sound like your gas tube twisted a bit during the pin install. Get a new roll pin, I push my in.

I have cunch of steel 3/8 by 1 by 4 with hole drilled and threaded for fine thread 1/4 bolt.

I use it to push pins, front sights, etc.

Just put it and whatever you want to push in vise jaw and tighten down the bolt. Sometimes I put brass or nylon between bolt and whatever I'm pushing.

Link Posted: 6/30/2005 2:40:04 PM EDT
Try to use a punch that's rather large. I know that sound stupid given the size of the roll pin but if you use a punch that has a gouge in its tip to allow the placement of the tube "kinda inside" it, its easier to grab it and knock it in. Once you get it in there a ways you can use the smaller punch to flush it with the surface of the FSB.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 6/30/2005 6:08:03 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CKing:

Sound like your gas tube twisted a bit during the pin install. Get a new roll pin, I push my in.

Naw, the pin was tight to get started into the FSB, even before going into the tube. I'm thinking the hole was a tad under-size.
I'm going to put bbl on a different upper soon- If it is tight w/another pin I *may* ream the hole a bit.
Link Posted: 6/30/2005 6:15:44 PM EDT
I’ve found that 1 drop of CLP in the hole makes it a hell of a lot easier to drive in. ADCO's roll pin starters help as well.
Link Posted: 9/16/2005 2:50:05 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/16/2005 3:32:58 AM EDT
I like to chuck the pins up in a drill and round the edge that is being driven. This prevents the leading pin edge from flair out, or pick up a bur to cause the pin to bind.
Link Posted: 9/16/2005 6:12:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By altav:
I’ve found that 1 drop of CLP in the hole makes it a hell of a lot easier to drive in. ADCO's roll pin starters help as well.

CLP makes a huge difference. as altav said. Give that a try.
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 6:46:25 PM EDT
It might also be the gas tube, I had one last week that ate 2 rollpins before I gave up on it. After a lot of squinting and using a smaller punch as a hole alignment tool, I just gave up and went with a different tube and a new pin. That one went in easily.
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 8:01:19 PM EDT
I get a straight pin from my wife's sewing kit and put it thorugh the roll pin and use it as a guide to hammer in the roll pin. Really helps.
Link Posted: 9/20/2005 11:31:45 AM EDT
About every 3rd order from Midway, I get 3 or 4 gas tube roll pins...so when I mess one up, I can just grab another one hehe. Yes, they can be a beyotch.
Link Posted: 9/20/2005 12:54:49 PM EDT
I find putting a slight chamfer with emery cloth on the leading edge of the pin helps.
Link Posted: 9/21/2005 1:38:34 AM EDT
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