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Posted: 8/18/2006 1:33:51 PM EDT
[#1]
About a dozen SP1's on Gunbroker right now. Not even going to wade through lists on gunsamerica. Last month about two dozen were for sale on the EE.
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Posted: 8/18/2006 1:48:23 PM EDT
[#2]
You can make your own if you don't mind grinding on a receiver.  Elvis |
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Posted: 8/18/2006 4:26:02 PM EDT
[#3]
Im down with that. Any DIY instructions here on ARFCOM... I wanted a true slabside lower..... gunbroker has complete rifles for sale, didnt see any lowers only.... CXS |
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Posted: 8/18/2006 4:31:58 PM EDT
[#4]
What model rifle are you trying to duplicate?
Elvis |
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Posted: 8/18/2006 4:47:01 PM EDT
[#5]
If you want a "partial mag fence" A1, as in those found on some colt 601 thru 610, you will probably have to mill one down yourself. AFAIK there are very few around for sale, if any.
edit for spelling |
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Posted: 8/19/2006 6:36:28 PM EDT
[#6]
I'm trying to build my grandfather a rifle that looks like it was from vietnam.... he used an M14 primaraly but I figured it would still be cool..... CXS |
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Posted: 8/19/2006 6:47:01 PM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 8/19/2006 6:58:49 PM EDT
[#8]
AHH the pics are not showing!!!!1111!!!!!oneoneone!!!11
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Posted: 8/19/2006 7:08:53 PM EDT
[#9]
IM sent on Colt slabside lower... |
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Posted: 8/20/2006 9:19:31 AM EDT
[#10]
After seeing QUIB I figured why not give it a try. Here is a RRA lower in progress.   |
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Posted: 8/20/2006 9:30:13 AM EDT
[#11]
What is it you used to fill in the fire and safe markings? Elvis |
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Posted: 8/20/2006 10:10:10 AM EDT
[#12]
Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty Filler (Autobody Filler). I have a quart of Norrells grayish black on order for the finish, should be here any day. |
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Posted: 8/20/2006 1:23:43 PM EDT
[#13]
thats the route Im planning now....
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Posted: 8/22/2006 3:56:37 AM EDT
[#14]
Very nice AR15inmn. I have seen were others have used JB weld to fill in (like the selector marking in perticualr). Is there an advantage in the bondo vs that? (like you I am considering Norrels) I am concerned with any solution being able to take the heat of the curing process.
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Posted: 8/22/2006 4:30:59 AM EDT
[#15]
JB weld will take the heat, now the glazing is another question. JB is rated to 500 degrees. If it' s a brand name glazing compound the mfg should have specs on their website. Elvis |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 5:28:00 AM EDT
[#16]
That looks sweet! How hard was filing through forged aluminum. The cast receiver was fairly easy to file and shape. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 5:46:35 AM EDT
[#17]
Good question...I to have secured a RR lower for my slabside lower project. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 5:56:39 AM EDT
[#18]
I’m not predicting it’ll be any more difficult than filing down the cast receiver. As an aircraft mechanic I’ve blended out damage before in aluminum parts that are probably harder than a forged receiver, but it would be interesting to be able to compare the process with side by side receivers. The cast receivers have always had a bad rap for being weak. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 6:08:00 AM EDT
[#19]
I do not own one, so I don't have a horse in this race, but for all the comments we hear about the cast ones being weaker, there seems to be a lot out there the are still running years ans years later. Just an observation. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 8:25:42 AM EDT
[#20]
do you think a machine shop could remove the "extra" metal fairly easily... a friend of mine owns a machine shop...... or should i just file and fill....???
and also, is their a refrence picture to follow, so when i get my STAG in I can start right away.... CXS |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 8:44:30 AM EDT
[#21]
A machine shop could definitely do the job. But it’s not difficult to do your self. The final sanding and contouring is where you need to have patience. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 11:56:24 AM EDT
[#22]
I can not tell from the photo...does it have the relief around the mag release?  |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 2:04:57 PM EDT
[#23]
The Bondo is easy to work with. I have not been able to find any specs but I have been told it should be fine at 300 degrees. I may give it a bake test before refinishing. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 2:05:53 PM EDT
[#24]
I was amazed, it was fairly easy to file and shape. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 2:08:02 PM EDT
[#25]
I will agree with this, the rear buffer tube area takes more time and effort. The mag fence is pretty easy. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 2:09:43 PM EDT
[#26]
Not yet, that will be next. |
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Posted: 8/22/2006 4:43:13 PM EDT
[#27]
Not punking on you, hope mine looks half as good. |
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Posted: 8/23/2006 5:51:44 PM EDT
[#28]
I’m not much of a photographer but here is tonight’s progress. 
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Posted: 8/23/2006 6:50:38 PM EDT
[#29]
YYYYYEEEEESSSSSSS! That's it!
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Posted: 8/23/2006 6:54:32 PM EDT
[#30]
Can you run us through the rear buffer area build up? |
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Posted: 8/24/2006 7:31:01 AM EDT
[#31]
I cant wait to see it refinished.... CXS |
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Posted: 8/24/2006 1:51:48 PM EDT
[#32]
The rear buffer area is straightforward on the RRA lowers, as there is plenty of material. I simply started with a flat file to shape the upper 2/3rds and then dug out the dremmel for the lower area. Once I was close I sanded by hand with 220 grit sand paper. I was lucky to have a Colt A1 lower and upper sitting here to use as a guide. I’m still waiting on the Norrells but I’m pretty close to done with the modifications. It’s not perfect but I’m pretty happy for my first try. I also have a few DPMS stripped lowers, if this one finishes up good I may try another. Hopefully we can get the Norrells on this weekend. |
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Posted: 8/25/2006 7:36:39 AM EDT
[#33]
I am not sure as to what you are planing on using for a stock. I have an old A0 stock (not sure as to the exact designation: A1 length, pivioting rear sling swivel, no trapdoor). Anyway the rear of the receiver is about .092 lower than the rear of the stock. To get that to mate up to my stock I would have to add meterial to build up the receiver. Have you looked at how the stock you are wanting to use is going to fit in that area.... |
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Posted: 8/25/2006 8:09:17 AM EDT
[#34]
I have two stocks an A1 non trap door and a CS marked trap door. They both fit the same where the stock extendeds just very slightly below the lower on the rear. I have stripped DPMS lowers here and they all fit flush. Maybe DPMS will be a better option? Longhunter, what make is your lower? 
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Posted: 8/25/2006 9:21:18 AM EDT
[#35]
Rock River is the one that I have.
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Posted: 8/25/2006 1:51:53 PM EDT
[#36]
Well here are a few things I learned:
Follow Stickmans guide, he knows what he’s talking about. Shake the hell out of the Norrells and continue to shake as you paint. Preheating the parts makes a difference. I tried spot putty to fill in the Safe/Fire. Worked good until I hit it with the degreaser before applying the Norrells, then most if it came out. Next I will fill the Safe/Fire with JB Weld. I will re paint the upper, lower, charging handle, delta ring, etc. all together to match. Overall, I’m pretty happy with how it looks.  |
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Posted: 8/25/2006 3:52:39 PM EDT
[#37]
Looks good, what color is that again? -How come you did not do the upper at the same time?
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Posted: 8/25/2006 4:13:34 PM EDT
[#38]
Norrells Black-Grey.
It will darken if you rub in some oil however I will wait until it's ready for assembly. I was not sure how well it would come out as this was the first time with Norrells and an air brush so I was just testing the waters. The JB Weld is now on and I should be able to sand that down tomorrow. |
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Posted: 8/26/2006 12:52:05 PM EDT
[#39]
Since I had to fill in the Safe/Fire markings I figured I might as well build up the rear buffer tube area as well. On the RR Arms lowers the stock will hang slightly below the receiver. I used a car buffer tube and rear plate to get the contour correct. It's time to dig out the Norrells and hopefully give this the final finish.
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Posted: 8/26/2006 1:17:06 PM EDT
[#40]
On my Colt A1 the stock overhangs on it too. I don't think it's a RRA's thing as the rear profile of my RRA lower is the same as my Colt A1. I think it's just the nature of the beast. Elvis |
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Posted: 8/26/2006 2:12:19 PM EDT
[#41]
On my Colt it overhangs slightly.
On the RRA it was pretty extreme. About 1/8" or better. The DPMS lowers I have here they all fit flush. |
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