I'm sorry but I don't have any pictures of the set up. Just so I am clear, the problem with the bayonet is that the hole in the bayonet cross guard thingy is sized to fit over an A2 birdcage flashhider, or a phantom flash hider, but with close enough tollerances so the bayonet doesn't flop around. Another crucial distance for the bayonet is the distance between the bayonet lug and the flashhider, which should about match the length of the bayonet handle.
On a 16" barrell with a carbine length gas system, the distance between the bayonet lug and the FH is too great, and the ring in the bayo cross guard circles the barrell, not the larger diameter flash hider, and it flops too much for most people. Additionaly the overlap of the barrell over the bayonet shortens the available zombie sticking length of the blade.
There are two solutions, use a 14.5" barrell with a slightly longer FH like a phantom, or go to a midlength gas system with moves the bayonet lug closer to the FH.
If you use the 14.5, you have a short barrelled rifle unless the long FH is permantly attached, and as they say, all NFA rules apply.
I have a 14.5 " with a perm attached phantom, and I like the LOOKS of it better than my midlength, with looks front heavy to my eye. The midlength is pretty darn accurate.
TO get to your original question, you could make a bayonet fit by dremmeling the hole big eneough to go over the reverse flash hider, or perhaps you could turn down the reverse flashider somehow, but then the walls would be pretty thin.
I don't know if any of this helps or not.