I am going to replace my 1/9 20" standard A2 barrel with a 1/8 20" stainless Barrel.

It looks like that I can order "barrel only" (Bushmaster term,  http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/barrel-assemblies/pbbl20-20a-ss.asp) and use it to replace my existing barrel.

Do you guys are there think it is something we can do ourself safely and any special tools will be required? Or, should I just let the gunsmith does the work?

Thanks

DL

Tools:
Vice Jaws - sold by bushy, holds upper and lower in vice
Barrel removal tool - DPMS makes a good one.
Variety of roll pin punches
Torque Wrench w/ usgi WRENCH- just for fun.
copy of the USMC M16A2 tech manual
kroil


1.soak barrel nut in kroil
2. remove, handguards, gas tube, etc
3 rifle in vice jaws
4. remove barrel
5. install new barrel
6. line up barrel nut to be in lined with gas tube and torque specs.
your done!

As pbuff said, the entire procedure is painless.  However, if your current barrel has a brake on, then the front sight/gas block and barrel nut can not be removed unless this brake is off.  If you happen to order the entire barrel assembly from Bushmaster, it would come with everything and you can ignore my reply.

Thanks,

I am going to try it myself first. My bill folder is going to bleed.

DL

You guys need to look at the Bushmaster link - the "barrel only" is a complete assembly with a front sight base and barrel nut, so this is just a standard barrel swap.

While you've got your Visa card out [:D] order a few other things from Bushmaster.  You'll need an [url=http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/om-003.asp]Action Block[/url] and a [url=http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/223-wrench.asp]Barrel Wrench[/url], and that's all the special tools you'll need.  The [url=http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/handguards/hgd-tool.asp]Handguard Removal Tool[/url] is nice to have, but not absolutely necessary.  Order a new gas tube and roll pin just in case.  I'm assuming you already have a vise, hammer and punches, files, and circlip pliers.

What follows is [b]The Famous Homo Erectus Barrel Mounting Method[/b] -

Forget the torque wrench and all those silly "tighten and loosen 17 times while waving a dead cat over the barrel nut and dancing naked in the moonlight chanting voodoo curses with your nutsack smeared with magic moly grease" procedures incessantly parroted my the Worshipers of Military Manuals who until recently confined their insanity to the Troubleshooting board but have now starting to infest and infect "Build it Yourself."  In order to install an AR barrel, all you have to to is tighten a single nut until the notch lines up.

But first, stick your new barrel in your upper receiver and make sure there's no play in the barrel pin notch and the front sight base is straight up and down.  If it's not, take a jeweler's file and open up the notch to bring the front sight base up straight.  You can tighten the notch to remove all slop (very important!!) merely but taking a small hammer and punch, and [b]with the barrel in place[/b] very lightly peen down the threaded area on the "loose side" of the notch.  Be careful, use very light taps because it doesn't take much!!

Now that the front sight is straight, all you have to to is tighten one nut.  I use a short (2-3 inch) stub of a gas tube in the bolt carrier key pushed into the upper receiver to keep the circlip, weld spring, and delta ring indexed.  Spin the barrel nut on until it's hand tight, then lean on the barrel wrench until the next gas tube notch in the barrel nut lines up.  If you're using the gas tube stub in the bolt carrier, you'll see it pop through the notch.

That's it!!!  STOP!! You're done!!  Install the gas tube and handguards and go shooting!!!  The whole process should take less than 20 minutes. If it takes longer, you skin your knuckles, or you have to loosen and tighten the nut more than once, you're doing it wrong!!!

Good luck and good shooting!!!  Now, let the flaming begin...  [devil]


[Edited to ficks speling misteaks]

you may want to add a new bolt to go with that new barrel.  You may also want to consider a set of headspace gauges tho' i've never heard of anyone having HS problems.

Someone forgot to mention that it is worthwhile to use Molybdenum Disulfide grease for barrel nut threads.
TIP: Check auto parts store.  They call it "anti-seize compound."  You can get a small tub for $5-$10!  It should be slightly gritty paste.

A few nay sayers will say it is not a big deal, but then they have not removed many barrels and had to struggle with one of the bad ones...