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Page AR-15 » AR-15 / M-16 Retro Forum
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 10/25/2010 12:46:18 PM EDT
OK guys, I just unwrapped an A1 Type-E stock from its packaging about 15 minutes ago.  Until now I've never owned a non-A2 stock, and until now I don't think I've even touched a non A2 stock.  This one is a mixed bag.  The sling swivel and lower screw are kinda bad off, and the butt plate is an A2 plate, but the trap door is aluminum.

At the butt plate end of the stock, at the very top where the seam meets around the buffer tube, theres a chip missing out of the stock thats annoying the HELL out of me.  I'd like to fill it in, the only problem is, I can't seem to recall WTH the material/glue/substance was that makes the best filler?
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 6:11:33 PM EDT
[#2]
I had refinished one awhile back in Alumahyde flat black, and I filled in a 3/4 inch x 1/4 inch chipped edge with JB Weld.
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 6:30:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Like they said.  If you are going to paint it, JBWeld or Bondo work well.  If you don't want to paint it, Plastifix is great.
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 7:37:45 PM EDT
[#4]
Here is the thread with pictures showing a stock repaired with Plastifix.
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 7:51:34 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Here is the thread with pictures showing a stock repaired with Plastifix.


Major tag!

Link Posted: 10/25/2010 10:53:44 PM EDT
[#6]
I've never used plastifix before (looks great in the VAAR tutorial), but I did repair a pair of no drain HGs with Brownell's "acraglas".
Before:

After:

Sorry for the crappy nighttime pics!
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 9:26:14 AM EDT
[#7]
I'd say your repair is at least as good as the Plastifix.

Link Posted: 10/26/2010 11:35:58 AM EDT
[#8]
OK, interesting stuff.

I'm curious if anyone has tried super-glue?  My chip isn't as bad as the one on the hand-guards.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 6:52:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Super glue works for small scratches and cracks but not so well with filling up large areas.

JB Weld works great though. I had a stock that was dented and broken in half. A little JB weld, some bondo, and a coat of semi-gloss auto paint and it looks good as new.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 6:53:35 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I've never used plastifix before (looks great in the VAAR tutorial), but I did repair a pair of no drain HGs with Brownell's "acraglas".
Before:
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh42/Beeel/beforeleft.jpg
After:
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh42/Beeel/004-10.jpg
Sorry for the crappy nighttime pics!

Very good results!
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 6:58:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Superglue shrinks quite a bit as it dries when filling large voids. You could try JB Weld or Devcon epoxy mixed with a small amount of black enamel.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 7:23:40 PM EDT
[#12]
OK, I didn't consider the shrink factory.

This looks like a very thin, short crack, with a pencil-point size chip missing.  Were it not on the edge it wouldn't be noticed at all.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 10:25:21 PM EDT
[#13]
The other issue you might consider with superglue is that cyanoacrelate melts when exposed to acetone...so I'm not sure how well such a repair would respond to Hoppe's #9 or other cleaning solvents. Just something to consider.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 7:35:55 AM EDT
[#14]
Hoppe's is good to go. I used super glue to repair the crack on my Type A stock. After sanding it smooth, I used some Hoppe's to help bring back the original color.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 8:25:58 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Hoppe's is good to go. I used super glue to repair the crack on my Type A stock. After sanding it smooth, I used some Hoppe's to help bring back the original color.


That's good to know - guess you can understand my concern.

Link Posted: 10/27/2010 1:28:05 PM EDT
[#16]
I may have misunderstood. I used Hoppe's #9 oil. I wouldn't recommend getting the bore cleaner anywhere near most repair material.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 1:30:58 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Super glue works for small scratches and cracks but not so well with filling up large areas.

JB Weld works great though. I had a stock that was dented and broken in half. A little JB weld, some bondo, and a coat of semi-gloss auto paint and it looks good as new.


Mix lamp black with the JB weld..
Or carbon black.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 2:41:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
I may have misunderstood. I used Hoppe's #9 oil. I wouldn't recommend getting the bore cleaner anywhere near most repair material.


I think I'm going to touch the repair up with some black paint then, as a protective coat.  I don't think Hoppes solvent would melt this stuff, but I'll be careful anyway.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 5:50:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Hello, I've done quite a few repairs on A1 furniture with great results.
I use "Plastic Steel / Steel Weld".
I get it at my local Auto Zone.
I also bought a fiberglass auto repair kit and sometimes use the fiberglass that comes in
the kit by cutting it into small pieces for a filler and added strength.
I just mix it into the 2 part "Plastic Steel"
Works great. This stuff is cheap and goes a long way.
Hope this helps.

jisco3
Jackson, Ohio
Page AR-15 » AR-15 / M-16 Retro Forum
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
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