Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 1/7/2005 3:14:03 AM EDT
The last time I tried to knock taper pins out the steel was so soft it expnded - I ended up having to drill them out and replace them with roll pins. What is the trick to getting these pins out?
Link Posted: 1/7/2005 4:33:09 AM EDT
I just use a punch and a hammer,
Link Posted: 1/7/2005 4:41:47 AM EDT
Make sure you're hitting the small end and use the right size pin in brass or nylon.
Link Posted: 1/7/2005 6:02:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Monkey-man:
The last time I tried to knock taper pins out the steel was so soft it expnded - I ended up having to drill them out and replace them with roll pins. What is the trick to getting these pins out?



First, make sure you use the right punch - Brownell's sells a punch specifically for AR taper pins, and it's the only punch that I've been able to remove them with (it's still not easy). Second, make sure you're hitting the small side of the pin. Third, if you've mounted the barrel in a vise, use a block of wood or metal to support the barrel directly beneath the pin you're trying to knock out. Lastly, hit the punch REALLY HARD. You need to get the pins out in the first several whacks, or you will start to deform them. This has worked for me, but if someone has an easier way, please share.
Link Posted: 1/7/2005 6:03:03 AM EDT

Tweak keeps FSB removal and reinstall info tacked up in the FAQ...

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=66&t=187105

Link Posted: 1/8/2005 1:05:02 AM EDT
Will heat or cold make it easier to knock the pins out? I have seen both mentioned, but it must be one or the other.
Link Posted: 1/8/2005 5:00:19 AM EDT

Originally Posted By sovereign:
Will heat or cold make it easier to knock the pins out? I have seen both mentioned, but it must be one or the other.



Some say heat and cold helps - I've never needed it. Some say the cupped punches help - I use standard flat punches. Penetrating oil, like Kroil, may also help.

The keys to all of this are:

You need a firm, stable platform to set the barrel on. It is best to C-clamp the FSB down so it can't move. Any movement or bounce takes the energy of you hits and puts it elsewhere.

Your first hit or two have to be square and HARD. Hitting the small side of the pin definitely helps.
Link Posted: 1/8/2005 5:28:39 AM EDT
You might also have gotten some soft pins. I'm not clear on why you keep removing them but according to the TM you should replace them after removal. Otherwise i can't add anything more than the other guys.
Link Posted: 1/8/2005 5:43:09 AM EDT
Listen to Mongo, he is King FSB remover. [
Link Posted: 1/8/2005 6:02:58 AM EDT
What barrel is yours? Some Bushmaster barrels are real pain in the ass. I did end up marring the FSB on my BM barrel pretty bad whack after whack and still no moving pins godamnit!
Link Posted: 1/8/2005 6:27:32 AM EDT

Originally Posted By abri:
What barrel is yours? Some Bushmaster barrels are real pain in the ass. I did end up marring the FSB on my BM barrel pretty bad whack after whack and still no moving pins godamnit!



I've done about a dozen Bushmaster barrels without a problem. I did receive a Bushmaster Superlight barrel from a member here with a forked up pin. He tried to remove it and mushroomed the pin a bit. On advice from me, he Dremeled off the mushroom and tried again, but to no avail. He sent it to me and i beat on it for a while just to make sure it was stuck, then I took it to a friends and got it out using a Bridgeport mill. To date that is the only taper pin, of any brand, that I couldn't get out.

I repeat, just to re-re-reempahsize, your work platform should be rock solid, the FSB has to be clamped down so it can't move and your first hit or two have to be square and HARD. If you pansy around with the pins on your first couple of hits, you'll mushroom the ends of them and then your are essentially done.
Top Top