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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/21/2005 6:23:48 PM EDT
I recently purchased a Bushy V match carbine and I am going to replace the forearm with a YHM free floater that I ordered from Bravo Company. The Bushy fired several hundred rounds of different ammo without any problems, but that aluminum v match foremarm got real, hot real fast. It looks to me like the v match forarm is threaded onto the barrell nut. I am going to try to unscrew the forarm with a strap wrench, and I am hoping that the YHM forearm has the same threads as the Bushy barrell nut. I am very mechanically savy as I am a high pressure welder and a mechanic in a powerhouse, so I am confident that I can do this, but if anyone has removed a v match forearm before any tips would be appreciated.
Link Posted: 9/21/2005 6:54:09 PM EDT
I've never personally handled a Bushmaster V-Match forend, but I'm pretty sure that it is one piece, with the barrel nut being part of the tube. After pulling the gas tube, just unscrew the whole thing with a strap wrench. A new YHM should come with its own replacement barrel nut.
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 3:41:52 PM EDT
Bushmaster uses YHM parts and labels them as their BMAS parts. I would not be suprised if the barrel nut from the Bushy FF is the same thread pitch for the new YHM Setup.
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 4:51:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/22/2005 4:53:21 PM EDT by Azrael2004]
The V-Match forearm is integral with the barrel nut.

I removed mine recently to install a lightweight YHM for the same reason. The damn V-Match tube gets HOT.

You willl have to remove the V-Match gas block.
After attempts with the blue tip wrench, and the 16oz dead blow hammer, I had to grind the original gas block down into the pins to where they could just lift out.
They still required beating even with no metal around 50% of the pin! (Yes, I was beting them out from the small end)
The gas tube pin came out easy. But a new gas tube with my next parts order was cheaper than continuing to destroy the old one to get it out of the block.

I braced the upper in a 5" vise using a Bushmaster Armorers Block. Tried the strap wrench and the tube just laughed.
I broke out my ultra duty strap wrench that uses an automotive seat belt strap. With about 800 lbs of force the tube finally let loose.

My V-Match carbine was about 4 years old and had a few thousand rounds through it.
I installed a YHM Midlength Lightweight tube and the Spectre gas block under it.
After I was done I was happy with the result.
home.comcast.net/~azrael2004/images/Bushy/NewBM2.jpg

Hopefully yours will go easier being a lower mileage rifle.

ETA: I was bored and playing with the animations.
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 5:16:41 PM EDT
Hey Azrael.. Thanks for all the detail... Now I think I'll do my V-match!
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 6:01:55 PM EDT
Azrael- I just took a close look at those pins on the gas block and they were forced in with such an interference fit that there is some metal rolled back on them on the side that they were driven in from. I wasn't planning on replacing the gas block, but it looks like I might have to destroy it in order to remove it. Thanks for all of the good info. That v match forearm has got to go.
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 6:03:46 PM EDT
Azrael- I just took a close look at those pins on the gas block and they were forced in with such an interference fit that there is some metal rolled back on them on the side that they were driven in from. I wasn't planning on replacing the gas block, but it looks like I might have to destroy it in order to remove it. Thanks for all of the good info. That v match forearm has got to go.
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 6:39:32 PM EDT
MW740,
Glad to help.
I figured the lesser evil was grinding out the pins. I just couldn't use any more force hammering the pins without fear of damaging something else.
(And the Spectre gas block looks better too.)
Link Posted: 9/23/2005 7:29:29 AM EDT
I am currently removing the tube on my V Match Carbine to replace with a DD 9" tube.

Why is it nessisary to remove the gas block? Mine appears to be smaller that the inside diameter of the tube (Once I removed the sling mount). I was really hoping I wouldn't have to take the gas block off as the new tube will extend past the gas block. I guess I should have known this was going to turn into a train wreck!
Link Posted: 9/23/2005 9:27:05 AM EDT
.
Link Posted: 9/23/2005 3:47:24 PM EDT
SturmMonkey,
Sorry but the barrel nut part of that tube is smaller than the gas block.
Link Posted: 9/23/2005 8:10:27 PM EDT
Thanks for the wakeup call, it is pretty obvious now that I am looking at it. The anticipation of getting this set up made me assume it would be easy. Ohhh how I should know better. It will give me something to do tomorrow, as long as our gunsmith doesn't need his tools.
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 9:21:58 PM EDT
I got my forearm off today without too much trouble. Once the gas block was off, the forearm came off with very little effort. I probably didn't even need to use the strap wrench to get it off. The 9" Daniel Defense rail really looks cool on this rifle. The gas block required some extensive modification to fit under the forearm, but I think it turned out great. Thanks for the help guys.

http://members.cox.net/crowleyj/images/TacGuns6.JPG
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 6:03:02 AM EDT
You're welcome. The rifle looks great!
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 2:57:51 AM EDT
Yesterday I received my YHM forearm from Bravo company, so I found time to start doing the work. I could not get the gas block pins to move at all. After getting all the wonderfull info from this post a few days ago, I sprayed the pins with penetrating fluid in hopes that it would make removal easier, but it did not work. After some really hard hits with a brass punch and a 3lb hammer, I decided to sacrifice the gas block. I used my dremel to fillet the gas block off of the barrel. I was succesfull after slowly removing enogh material; to remove the pins, but they were in there good. I will be installing a YHM gas block with the flip up FS as soon as the mail man brings it to my door. As far as the V match forearm, I was able to unscrew that by hand! Thanks for all of the info that this post has generated, I will post pics as soon as I am done with this build.
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