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Posted: 12/27/2012 2:19:05 PM EDT
A couple years ago I bought a RRA upper with their 1/2 quad free float rail.

http://www.rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=433&CFID=191273244&CFTOKEN=30249317

I bet I haven't shot the rifle more than 2 or 3 times as the damn front end is so heavy I simply can't hold the rifle steady for more than a minute or so.

My question is, how do you remove a rail like this? I am used to the Delta ring spring on type forearms.

Once done, I would like to replace it with something lighter weight. (Haven't put much thought into that part yet.

Any how to's" for this job out there?
Link Posted: 12/27/2012 2:56:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/27/2012 3:00:16 PM EDT by gaspipes]
That's a YHM rail, or one made for RRA by YHM.

Can you change out the barrel on an AR? Because to change the rail, that is what you are going to do basically.

Remove flash hider. Remove front sight/gas block. Loosen the lock ring at the back of the hand guard. Remove anti rotation screws if it has them, then unscrew the hand guard from the barrel but. The barrel nut is proprietary so only other hand guard what will fit is a YHM hand guard which you don't want because they are all heavier than a LaRue, or Daniel Defense etc. All the free float hand guards use proprietary barrel nuts and even if you want to use a standard hand guard you'll have to remove the YHM barrel nut and use a standard nut.

It's not a big job but you can't do it without the correct tools. YHM barrel nut wrench for one. A vice, a receiver block, a torque wrench for torquing whatever new barrel nut you end up with.

I've got that half quad rail on a 20" scoped varmint type gun. It is heavy but I like it on that gun which is always shot from a rest.
Link Posted: 12/27/2012 3:08:41 PM EDT
Ok, that is no big deal then. I haven't put many barrels on but it isn't new to me and I do have the tools.

Glad you mentioned the barrel nut, I would have gone nuts trying to figure that out since I didn't know they were proprietary.

It is a great piece, but on a 16 inch barrel it is really heavy. I don't mind some weight, but if I want something that heavy I would buy a tiger tank.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 12/27/2012 4:17:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/27/2012 4:21:52 PM EDT by Patriot556]
Highly recommend you purchase a upper vice block from Brownell's to avoid damaging the upper.

RRA has a tendency to use Lock-tite on the threads.

Also, depending how much torque was used to install the flash hider a barrel vice block may be in order. I had a few flash hiders that were installed by the Samonite gorilla.
Link Posted: 12/27/2012 4:22:40 PM EDT
heat is your friend . rra loves red loc-tite
Link Posted: 12/27/2012 5:12:22 PM EDT
I have the tools so no problem. I remember the flash hider being hard as hell to replace when I got the upper.

I just took the barrel off a Kahr arms Thomson a few weeks ago and it was lock-tighted on as well. No problem with the right tools.

Trying to decide if I want to buy the tool for the YHM parts and a new rail or just sell it off and build a super lightweight 20 inch upper on the existing lower.

(Don't ask, If I do sell the upper it won't be any time soon)
Link Posted: 12/27/2012 7:39:49 PM EDT
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/935350/yankee-hill-machine-wrench-free-float-tube-handguard-ar-15-steel

Here is the what the YHM wench looks like. It's $30. Works on the barrel nut and the lock ring. I would ask in your hometown forum if someone nearby had a wrench you could borrow. I really like the Daniel Defense Lite rail and if you buy one of those, it comes with the but and the wrench. I think their bolt up system is one of the best if not the best ways to attach a rail. If you can borrow a wrench, just buying a new rail is a lot cheaper than an whole new upper.

This is what the YHM barrel nut looks like.



You can see threads for the lock ring and threads for the rail. And you can see why a regular barrel nut wrench or standard multi tool won't work on it.

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