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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/4/2005 12:09:10 PM EDT
My YHM LW FF rail has loosened up and the end-cap is touching the bottom part of the gas tube. having
My DPMS AR15 multi-tool doesn't fit on the YHM jam nut, so here's what I'm thinking:
1) order the special YHM wrench and re-tighten the forearm-jam nut
2) drill a small hole in the jam nut and another one in the forearm itself to put set screws that will really "lock" both pieces on the barrel nut.
Has anybody done this before ?

Now, for the end-cap hole that touches the gas tube (which is inserted in the YHM flip-up FSB w/o bayo lug), I simply want to cut the "offending" portion with a Dremel... which implies i'll have to remove the FH, FSB, gas tube, .... I wanna keep this cap, 'cause I prefer the look of my carbine with it.
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 1:47:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/4/2005 1:48:42 PM EDT by BrightFlashlights]
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 2:12:21 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Sniper918:
2) drill a small hole in the jam nut and another one in the forearm itself to put set screws that will really "lock" both pieces on the barrel nut.



I had two tubes do the same. If I were forced to own a YHM railed FF tube again, that is exactly what I would do. That way you would have a mechanical means of keeping that tube tight, rather than relying solely on the lock nut friction. Done carefully and diligently, it would likely look like it belonged there. Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 4:46:36 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 5:44:40 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 4:32:45 AM EDT
i have never had any problems with the ones i have.


never used any loctite either.
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 1:56:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/5/2005 1:57:57 PM EDT by theshootersden]
This is the way I install YHM FF rails...

After securing the receiver in a vise (protected of course), use red loctite on the threads, use an A3 carry handle to index the FF to the receiver and a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to tighten the jam nut... Easy as 123

Just a note: Be sure not to run the FF down to close to the receiver, it may prevent the upper from being able to align properly with the lower... (The jam nut will make contact with the lower receiver near the pivot pin)
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 2:15:08 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 2:45:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/5/2005 2:45:57 PM EDT by dport]

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By theshootersden:
This is the way I install YHM FF rails...

After securing the receiver in a vise (protected of course), use red loctite on the threads, use an A3 carry handle to index the FF to the receiver and a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to tighten the jam nut... Easy as 123

Just a note: Be sure not to run the FF down to close to the receiver, it may prevent the upper from being able to align properly with the lower... (The jam nut will make contact with the lower receiver near the pivot pin)



I have a question, what happens when you want to remove said rail (with the red loc tite on them)?


C4


Throw it in the oven and heat it up? (edited to add the question mark)
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 2:47:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/5/2005 3:04:37 PM EDT by theshootersden]

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

I have a question, what happens when you want to remove said rail (with the red loc tite on them)?


C4



I use heat to remove them, its realy not a big deal... I read alot of post here about how hard red is to remove... Heat is the way to do it...

Edited to add: I use a pencil tip soldering iron for small set screws, soldering gun for larger set screws and propane for the bigger stuff... It works every time
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 5:29:30 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 5:35:42 PM EDT
I would loc-tite just about everything I put on my gun anyway.
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 5:52:55 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 6:19:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/5/2005 6:20:35 PM EDT by theshootersden]

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By theshootersden:

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

I have a question, what happens when you want to remove said rail (with the red loc tite on them)?


C4



I use heat to remove them, its realy not a big deal... I read alot of post here about how hard red is to remove... Heat is the way to do it...

Edited to add: I use a pencil tip soldering iron for small set screws, soldering gun for larger set screws and propane for the bigger stuff... It works every time



I knew the answer to my own question and just wanted to make sure that other folks realized that you have to use a blow torch to loosen up red loc tite. The other issue is that you CAN get galling when you torque threads onto each other and use loc tite.



C4



I guess that was a test question? Any way, a "blow torch" is nothing but another tool... And about the galling, that could happen with any threaded part that is over torqued, even if they dont have loctite on them...
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 6:29:29 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 6:36:45 PM EDT

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By dport:
I would loc-tite just about everything I put on my gun anyway.



I do as well, but use blue loc tite.

C4



I've ordered the YHM wrench and will certainly put a bit of blue loctite.
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 7:00:15 PM EDT

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By dport:
I would loc-tite just about everything I put on my gun anyway.



I do as well, but use blue loc tite.


C4


I used to, but have heard too many tales of things coming loose. The most notorious are front sights on Glocks.
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 5:55:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By theshootersden:

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By theshootersden:

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

I have a question, what happens when you want to remove said rail (with the red loc tite on them)?


C4



I use heat to remove them, its realy not a big deal... I read alot of post here about how hard red is to remove... Heat is the way to do it...

Edited to add: I use a pencil tip soldering iron for small set screws, soldering gun for larger set screws and propane for the bigger stuff... It works every time



I knew the answer to my own question and just wanted to make sure that other folks realized that you have to use a blow torch to loosen up red loc tite. The other issue is that you CAN get galling when you torque threads onto each other and use loc tite.



C4



I guess that was a test question? Any way, a "blow torch" is nothing but another tool... And about the galling, that could happen with any threaded part that is over torqued, even if they dont have loctite on them...



Galling can occur anytime you torque threads. This is why you use a high temp moly grease on your barrel nut. Loc tite just adds to the possibility of galling making it a no joy to me.


C4



Moly grease also helps in preventing the barrel extension from rotating while tightening the barrel nut, preventing the alignment pin from bending...
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 2:53:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/6/2005 2:54:57 PM EDT by Sniper918]

Originally Posted By theshootersden:
... use an A3 carry handle to index the FF to the receiver and a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to tighten the jam nut...



I did that with an ASA one-piece scope mount and a flat-blade screwdriver ... on my kitchen counter hinking.gif
It surely tightened up the YHM FF rail, but it's a temporary solution.

The YHM wrench and DPMS upper receiver vise block are on their way
Link Posted: 8/8/2005 7:51:01 AM EDT
The YHM wrench is a great tool...you can use it on a regular barrel nut, and it's much easier than a regular amorer's wrench. It's essential if you have jam nuts that need to be tightened. Your YHM fore ends will not come lose if you get the ram nut good and tight.

Link Posted: 8/8/2005 8:01:42 AM EDT
those F*CK!NG YHM threads are too fine pitch-wise. that friggin locking ring and rail will rotate all day against one another...
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