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11/20/2019 5:07:11 PM
Posted: 10/25/2013 7:52:05 AM EST

Anyone else having problems with KeyMod rails coming loose?
I used a Noveske 9-slot and tightened it down similar to how I would scope rings with equal pressure on each of the three screws; I attached a forward grip, shot less than a magazine and it was coming loose.

I did not use Loctite – the obvious fix yet; but I’m thinking that it still shouldn't come loose that easily. Having a bit of Loctite being the ONLY think holding my shit together makes me a bit uncomfortable.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:48:55 AM EST
Loctite works man

I locktite everything on a rifle. Otherwise I will have it come loose
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:49:58 AM EST
Loctite.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 8:52:19 AM EST
Won't the heat coming from the barrel weaken the loctite though? I can understand where the OP is coming from with his concern
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 9:06:01 AM EST
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Originally Posted By jr1092:
Won't the heat coming from the barrel weaken the loctite though? I can understand where the OP is coming from with his concern
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I use blue loctite on my gas block set screws.

Never came loose.

So the heat from the hanguard will be much less than that of a gas block
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 9:29:57 AM EST
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.

Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 9:31:45 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Indyryder3x:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.

Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you.
View Quote


Blue loctite would be cheap insurance.

And still very easily removed as it doesnt have a high break rating
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 12:59:06 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Indyryder3x:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.

Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you.
View Quote

He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 2:21:57 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 2:22:38 PM EST by bwideman]
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Originally Posted By imjb1911:

He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments.
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Originally Posted By imjb1911:
Originally Posted By Indyryder3x:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.

Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you.

He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments.

It looks to me the OP was stating his 9 slot Noveske rail section was coming loose, not the Keymod forearm itself.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 3:05:45 PM EST
Wow I thought the keymod was suppose to fix this problem that a lot of tube rails have been having.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 3:06:56 PM EST
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Originally Posted By bwideman:

It looks to me the OP was stating his 9 slot Noveske rail section was coming loose, not the Keymod forearm itself.
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Originally Posted By bwideman:
Originally Posted By imjb1911:
Originally Posted By Indyryder3x:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.

Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you.

He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments.

It looks to me the OP was stating his 9 slot Noveske rail section was coming loose, not the Keymod forearm itself.
+1
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 3:21:53 PM EST
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Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Wow I thought the keymod was suppose to fix this problem that a lot of tube rails have been having.
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I didn't realize there was a problem with round rails. I've been using Apex hand guards for the last few years. I've Never had anything come loose.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 9:48:25 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Indyryder3x:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.

Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you.
View Quote


My thoughts exactly. Loctite is useful, but but shouldn't be the only thing holding the rail on.
Ill try your suggestion lndyryder, thank you.

And yes, its the rail segment coming loose, not the attachment or the handguard.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 10:13:52 AM EST
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Originally Posted By pikie1:


I didn't realize there was a problem with round rails. I've been using Apex hand guards for the last few years. I've Never had anything come loose.
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Originally Posted By pikie1:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Wow I thought the keymod was suppose to fix this problem that a lot of tube rails have been having.


I didn't realize there was a problem with round rails. I've been using Apex hand guards for the last few years. I've Never had anything come loose.
Yea I have broken a picitanny section on a DD MFR rail and so have others, and I have read problems about the Troy tube rails having the same problem too.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 12:16:27 PM EST
Just like lugnuts, need to re-torque them after the first few miles (suggested on aluminum rims)... I re-tighten every important screw and bolt after the first few uses.

Also, torque them down... Loosen them, then re-torque. (Just a habit I have from auto work)

Don't know if that'll help, but its just another tip
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 3:11:34 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 3:11:34 PM EST by Lancelot]
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